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Old 01 February 2011, 19:28   #11
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Nos4r2 and Willk - thanks for the suggestions. The stringers are installed but the boat is flexing at the join between pieces 2 and 3 of the floor - the stringers don't reach that far forward and don't cover that join by design.
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Old 02 February 2011, 01:33   #12
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Nos4r2 and Willk - thanks for the suggestions. The stringers are installed but the boat is flexing at the join between pieces 2 and 3 of the floor - the stringers don't reach that far forward and don't cover that join by design.
They should! Unless we are talking about two different boats.

There should be two pairs of metal extrusion that have a groove into which the top flange of the floor sides fit tightly. These stringers make all the oblong floor pieces sit flat.
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Old 02 February 2011, 03:04   #13
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They should! Unless we are talking about two different boats.

There should be two pairs of metal extrusion that have a groove into which the top flange of the floor sides fit tightly. These stringers make all the oblong floor pieces sit flat.
The stringers only hold panels 3, 4 & 5 together. They stop just before the join between 2 & 3 as that's when the taper starts, hence why it can bend there.
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Old 02 February 2011, 07:12   #14
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The stringers only hold panels 3, 4 & 5 together. They stop just before the join between 2 & 3 as that's when the taper starts, hence why it can bend there.
You should have 4 stringers, 2 long and 2 short. They are placed alternatively (short-long, long-short).
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Old 02 February 2011, 11:29   #15
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Don't know about that one, Azzurro; my Achilles was set up the same way Duck Witch describes (must be a story behind that username, no?)

Rear 3 sections held firm with stringers, front 2 sections held in place by compression between the rear floor section and the tubes at the bow.

Inflation pressure of the tubes and the keel seemed to be what controls the flex towards the nose; there certainly isn't a whole lot of mechanical structure to keep it firm.

I'd suggest getting a gauge so you know where you are inflating to; else, pump it up until it feels like a taut sheet of canvas. Thumping it with a fist should not deform the tubes much at all. A half inch indentation with the thumb sounds a little low to me (but maybe my thumbs are weaker than yours.)

jky
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Old 02 February 2011, 11:57   #16
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Assuming the boat is correctly assembled, my guess is that the keel isn't properly inflated.
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Old 02 February 2011, 12:04   #17
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my guess is that the keel isn't properly inflated.
Wilkee "You should get the pressure sorted first, especially the inflatable keel"

Malteaser "the floor and keel work together to make the boat work"

M Chap "more likely to be under inflated keel"

Wilk II "ruined when the keel wasn't inflated"

Jyaskee "pressure of the tubes and the keel seemed to be what controls the flex"

Is it me, or is there a theme developing here.
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Old 02 February 2011, 21:55   #18
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Sure does seem to be a theme developing, namely that the most likely explanation is incorrect inflation, particularly of the keel. Pretty typical newbie mistake, right?

It was precisely this type of helpful feedback I had hoped for from my post, so I thank everyone for their considered input. I will be checking the inflation and re-testing the boat this weekend, so will post my results.

Jyasaki's description of the boat is the same as the one I have - 2 stringers per side, both equal length, with floor pieces 1 and 2 not attached to stringers and held in place by the side of the boat only.

Thanks RIB (SIB) net
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Old 04 February 2011, 04:59   #19
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Just a quick followup to let everone know how the test on the water went today - in a nutshell, problem resolved - it was as most people suggested a lack of proper inflation - not just in the keel but the whole boat in fact. 3.6 psi turns about to be a lot firmer than I thought. I knew it would be a classic newbie error. She's going well now. Thanks for the help all.
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Old 04 February 2011, 05:03   #20
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She's going well now.
Result

(The keel should be higher pressure than the tubes)
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