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Old 02 August 2008, 09:08   #41
Locozodiac's Avatar
Country: Other
Town: Lima-Peru
Boat name: Nautile
Make: Sea Rider Boats
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 /30 HP
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Originally Posted by chunky293 View Post
Hi Locozodiac,

I was under the impression after reading articles in this forum that flushing with muffs isn't all that good as there seems to be confusion over wether or not you should have your engine running whilst flushing. Some say that if you dont run your engine whilst flushing with muffs you can damage your impeller, others say that using muffs doesn't get the water to where you need it, So I took the impression after reading the threads on flushing that the best way was to use a barrel of water and run your engine in that guarenteeing that your engine got a good flushing without damage. Its so confusing when so many people all have different methods of flushing, if you search the forum threads on flushing with muffs you will see what I mean.
Thank you for your advice.

All the best
Hi Chunky:

Althought we are getting out of the original thread, sorry for that, wanted to respond your post.

As always, there will different people's tech appreciations about flushing with barrels, muffs, adapters. Been engine flushing for years using two methods, mufs and direct water flush with adapter, discarded long ago the barrell methods, too much trouble for me, what to do with the oiled water mess. Besides the engines used has 3 way flushing methods.

If using muffs, get one with thick u shape ear holders, the Tempo brand are very light and won't hold nice on the leg, Quicksilver are best, very thick. Placed a modification long ago to make the u shape retain better the water exiting sideways from ears, people using it tell me that water pressure has been increased notabily.

Some engines can be flushed directly with water adapters, will need to remove a plug and screw the adapter, works fine, still use them in Evinrude 10/10 HP, the plug is at the crankcase exhaust lid & Tohatsu up to 30 HP, plug is at the tail, will need to cover 3 water inlets to have good pressure going up. If to flush with engine on/off will depend if the engine has a thermostat or not, small portable engines usually not, the other cones with thermostat will need to be flushed minimum 5 minutes to make time for the thermostat to open to clean the interior water passages of the cylinder head to avoid salt incrustations and cool the engine efficiently.

Using mufs or adapters will spray lots of water around the engine so try to flush not on a garden, prefferebly a open space with concrete floor, the oiling water that comes from the tail will be minimum as most will be burned out.

As long as your hose supplies "good water pressure", your muffs dont loose a big amout of water sideways, you see a nice thick stream throught the water indicator port, will be ok, you won't harm the impeller in any way, the water acts as a lubricant to the impeller to reduce friction and besides, the engines is running at very low rpm's, about 1,000 or little more.

So it's entirely up to each one which method will like to use.

Happy Sibbing

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Old 05 August 2008, 02:18   #42
Cookee's Avatar
Country: UK - England
Town: Salcombe, Devon, UK
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Make: BananaShark
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2xYanmar 260 diesels
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Chunky - As far as I know there has never been a question over flushing with muffs, it is totally safe unless you rev the nuts off the engine - the issues come with advice on whether the direct flushing into the powerhead with the adapter some new outboards come with as it bypasses the impeller - hope that straightens it out for you!

Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 05 August 2008, 05:52   #43
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Country: UK - England
Town: Bournemouth
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Make: Capelli Tempest 470
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Originally Posted by chunky293 View Post
Yes John
This is great for my alu hard floored seapro, and yes you do need more psi for the aerodecks.
Hopefully be going for my maiden voyage soon I just need a barrel to wash my outboards in for when I get back otherwise ship shape and ready to go I cant wait but know I have to.
A mate said ( I will get you a large plastic barrel mate ) still waiting grrrrrrrr Ive missed some cracking weather up here nice calm mirror seas, hope I HAV'ENT missed the boat so to speak.
Yes, you need the Bravo BST 12HP for aerodecks - a cracking piece of kit - forget anything else! Found it almost impossible to get the required .8 BAR in my Honwave 3.8 floor with amything else. And what a difference it makes having the right pressure.


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