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Old 07 June 2011, 09:39   #11
azzurro's Avatar
Country: Other
Town: Madrid-Almeria
Boat name: SEPIA
Make: honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda BF20
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 197
Originally Posted by stretch View Post
i did just that on last boat, 12' sib with air floor, but i used a 1/2" MDF board, gave it 2 coats of fiberglass resin! boat was alot more rigid, and change nothing about how it handled!

Brilliant! Waiting for your pics. Even though, an air floor is not the same as a high pressure hull, neither their rigidness requirements are equal. I believe, I mean. Has anyone tried doping the boats with that blue pill?

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Old 19 June 2011, 06:12   #12
Country: UK - England
Town: Surbiton
Length: no boat
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 4
Just doing the same on my 260 Cadet slatted floor with 18mm ply - will let you know the results!

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Old 19 June 2011, 10:26   #13
Country: UK - England
Town: kent
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
Originally Posted by Franko Manini View Post
Hi folks, new guy here from Canada...

I have a QuickSilver 320 with an air deck. I love everything about it... except....

Once a year I take it fishing and leave it set up for about 10 days straight. I do a lot of sight fishing on lakes, and I stand a lot to see the fish. I find the air floor a touch wobbly, and standing on it all day, while comfy on the feet, gets to my back with all the wiggling.

Another issue I have is this odd welling up of water under the air floor while on plane. It is sort of cyclic, like a wave slowly building udner the boat, then eventually, the boat gets over or past this wave, then another one starts to build. It effects the handling a bit, with the the boat surging slightly as the "wave receeds". I can feel it under my feet and it is such a strange thing to a guy who has always used aluminum hulled boats!

I've double checked that the floor is inflated to the recommended pressure using a menometer, and I've also checked tube and keel inflation, floor position, engine position, trim, and cavitation plate height. All of these are well within specification.

I was thinking of taking a piece of 5/8" marine ply, and cutting it to fit underneath the air floor from the air floor batten near the bow, to the transom. My thinking is that this will provide both additional rigidity and help with this strange "wave riding" effect I experience on plane.

Has anyone tried this? Does anyone have other suggestions?


Franko, the New Guy.
Do you need to do the whole floor in wood?. Why not try two, approx 6 inch wide ,slats under the airdeck, just to keep the speed tubes down.
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Old 28 July 2012, 19:53   #14
Country: Canada
Make: Mercury Airdeck 340
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 20hp
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 20
Seeing how been about a year, am curious to see how these projects developed and the results achieved. Photos would be great.

Have 340 Airdeck and know of which you speak. Over the winter am interested in having a go at this myself. Cheers.
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Old 10 September 2012, 14:16   #15
foxyloxey's Avatar
Country: UK - England
Town: Selby
Boat name: Aerotec 380
Make: Bombard
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15Hp Johnson
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4
I get this with my Bombard Aerotec 380.
At the moment I am in the process of making a fully fibreglassed floor to replace the HP floor. It will fit in the same way the HP floor. I know it will not fit in the car any more but it will easily go on a roof rack.

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