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Old 12 September 2016, 04:11   #1
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Country: Norway
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New to the site Zodiac FC470(F470?)

Hi everyone,

I recently acquired a well used FC470( Or F470?)
Produced in 2000. Its not in perfect condition, but i got it for 300$ so that was expected.

I think i have read most of the posts on this site regarding these boats
And off course i have some questions i hope some off you can help me with.

Anyone have a manual for this boat? 3 hours off googling, zero result.

the boat holds air fine, eccept in the lower tubes, one off them are leaking a bit.

Tips for howto repair this? Any help would be much appreciated
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Old 12 September 2016, 07:26   #2
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The boat is primarily constructed from a specialty fabric 1880 decitex, hypalon/csm/neoprene produced by a Zodiac Aerospace supplier.

You should get yourself a big tin of 2-part polychloroprene glue for use with elastomer inflatable boats.

Bostik 2402 would be my recommendation. You will also need about 1 liter of toluene for wiping the material down before gluing. It can also be used to deactivate/reactivate the glue if you make a mistake.,
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Old 13 September 2016, 03:17   #3
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Ok, So no sanding is needed? Do i just clean the fabric as good as possible?
And removing old glue with toluene?
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Old 13 September 2016, 05:11   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by office888 View Post
. It can also be used to deactivate/reactivate the glue if you make a mistake.,

What does this actually mean ?

I sort of get the reactivate as I guess it breaks down the glue so its not dried & stuck, but this must dependant on age of the glue ???
Could you peel off a patch on a 15 yr old boat & just reactivate & stick back down satisfactory !!!
or are we just on about reactivating a patch you started a couple of hours earlier that had been left to long & set ?

when you use it to reactivate, I guess the solvent eventually evaporates for it to dry & bond again (so the toluene will evaporate through the patches ??? or how does it dry ?) The more I think about it the stranger it seems, as the glue is a 2 part glue as well which I assumed was a chemical set! but will reactivate with toluene ?

Decativate - ????


Thanks :-)
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Old 13 September 2016, 10:40   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kr1stian View Post
Ok, So no sanding is needed? Do i just clean the fabric as good as possible?
And removing old glue with toluene?
Moderate sanding is required for repairing elastomers.

All old glue should be removed.

If you start sanding through to the support cloth, STOP. You want to lightly sand the oxidization off / remove the old glue, not gouge the material down to the polyester cords.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred. View Post
What does this actually mean ?

I sort of get the reactivate as I guess it breaks down the glue so its not dried & stuck, but this must dependant on age of the glue ???
Could you peel off a patch on a 15 yr old boat & just reactivate & stick back down satisfactory !!!
or are we just on about reactivating a patch you started a couple of hours earlier that had been left to long & set ?

when you use it to reactivate, I guess the solvent eventually evaporates for it to dry & bond again (so the toluene will evaporate through the patches ??? or how does it dry ?) The more I think about it the stranger it seems, as the glue is a 2 part glue as well which I assumed was a chemical set! but will reactivate with toluene ?

Decativate - ????


Thanks :-)
Deactivate : If you make a mistake with a patch (fresh gluing, minutes to a few hours old), you can apply a drop of toluene to the edge of the patch. This will "rewet" the glue and cause it to stop sticking to itself. Start peeling the patch, and applying a few drops of glue to continue to remove the patch. I would RECOMMEND waiting a 3-5 min for the toluene to flash, then apply another layer of glue.

Reactivate : If you wait too long and the glue is too dry to stick to itself, you can moisten a rag, then wipe the part A and part B you're gluing to "reactivate" the glue to make it very lightly tacky again, then you have about 90 seconds to lay it up. Use a small amount of toluene. Too much will cause the glue to be too wet, and when you lay the patch up, it will trap solvents. That will cause weak spots in the patch and bumps.

With reactivation, you can also use it remove "glazing / hazing" which occurs in high heat / humidity when the glue cures too quickly. It goes opaque rather than glossy because of a moisture layer or cured layer on top, then solvents are trapped underneath. Wiping with solvent pops that layer, then you immediately lay up to prevent it from going too dry or accumulating surface moisture.

Gluing is insanely imprecise.

At the same time, the more you work with it, the more likely you are to botch the entire repair job...try to get it right the first time.
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Old 13 September 2016, 12:57   #6
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Thanks
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Old 14 September 2016, 05:47   #7
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it appears that the fabric is allready showing!?
Is there any special way to glue this, or just follow the same procedure?

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Old 14 September 2016, 11:08   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kr1stian View Post
it appears that the fabric is allready showing!?
Is there any special way to glue this, or just follow the same procedure?

Attachment 115920
The material has delaminated in that section.

Officially, you should gluetex the exposed polyester. Basically, put 1-2 coats of glue on it and let it dry to fill in the fabric. Then on the next day, patch it as you regularly would.

You can probably get away with just rebonding it as you usually would though.
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Old 15 September 2016, 03:46   #9
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Thanks a lot for your help, glue is on its way.

Really appreciate it
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