Originally Posted by Kr1stian
Ok, So no sanding is needed? Do i just clean the fabric as good as possible?
And removing old glue with toluene?
Moderate sanding is required for repairing elastomers.
All old glue should be removed.
If you start sanding through to the support cloth, STOP. You want to lightly sand the oxidization off / remove the old glue, not gouge the material down to the polyester cords.
Originally Posted by Fred.
What does this actually mean ?
I sort of get the reactivate as I guess it breaks down the glue so its not dried & stuck, but this must dependant on age of the glue ???
Could you peel off a patch on a 15 yr old boat & just reactivate & stick back down satisfactory !!!
or are we just on about reactivating a patch you started a couple of hours earlier that had been left to long & set ?
when you use it to reactivate, I guess the solvent eventually evaporates for it to dry & bond again (so the toluene will evaporate through the patches ??? or how does it dry ?) The more I think about it the stranger it seems, as the glue is a 2 part glue as well which I assumed was a chemical set! but will reactivate with toluene ?
Decativate - ????
Deactivate : If you make a mistake with a patch (fresh gluing, minutes to a few hours old), you can apply a drop of toluene to the edge of the patch. This will "rewet" the glue and cause it to stop sticking to itself. Start peeling the patch, and applying a few drops of glue to continue to remove the patch. I would RECOMMEND waiting a 3-5 min for the toluene to flash, then apply another layer of glue.
Reactivate : If you wait too long and the glue is too dry to stick to itself, you can moisten a rag, then wipe the part A and part B you're gluing to "reactivate" the glue to make it very lightly tacky again, then you have about 90 seconds to lay it up. Use a small amount of toluene. Too much will cause the glue to be too wet, and when you lay the patch up, it will trap solvents. That will cause weak spots in the patch and bumps.
With reactivation, you can also use it remove "glazing / hazing" which occurs in high heat / humidity when the glue cures too quickly. It goes opaque rather than glossy because of a moisture layer or cured layer on top, then solvents are trapped underneath. Wiping with solvent pops that layer, then you immediately lay up to prevent it from going too dry or accumulating surface moisture.
Gluing is insanely imprecise.
At the same time, the more you work with it, the more likely you are to botch the entire repair job...try to get it right the first time.