Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 12 June 2010, 21:19   #1
Member
 
Country: Canada
Boat name: Mk2
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 7.5hp Honda 4stroke
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14
New Guy, deflating problem; early 80's mk2

Let me start by saying hello to everyone. I live in the Yukon which is in Northern Canada.
My Dad bought a Zodiac about 25 years ago. 14' mk2 I believe. I will post up some pictures later if possible.
Now onto the problem....deflation. I did a quick look around today with some soapy water and a paint brush. I didn't see any obvious leaks. But within an hour of pumping her up, you can start to feel her softening. I would really like to keep this boat in the family and in good running condition. She has the original oars, & floor boards. Though they too could use some restoration. This week I glued on an oar lock(as well as the piece that the paddle blade sits in). The repair seems to have gone pretty good. The old man thought I was crazy taking a belt sander to the pontoon but it made quick work of it. Just kind of nibbled away a little at a time.
I hope I can find what I am looking for here. If not, at least I am having fun doing it!
__________________

__________________
Phil'sFrontier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 June 2010, 21:28   #2
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
Deflate, remove the floor, and spray, rather than paint, with soapy water. Use something like a garden sprayer (couple-gallon cannister, hand pump, and trigger sprayer), and go over everything you can reach that holds air. That includes valves (actually, you may want to start with the valves, after 25 years.) Use a soap mix that bubbles easily (use a straw and blow into it - you should get a good mound of bubbles; if you don't, add more soap. Dishwashing liquid works well. If nothing shows up, flip it over and hit the bottom of the tubes.

jky
__________________

__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 June 2010, 21:36   #3
Member
 
Country: Canada
Boat name: Mk2
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 7.5hp Honda 4stroke
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14
I suspected the valves too but with the boat pumped up to the red line, I painted the valves and didn't see anything as far as seepage. The wood floor is not in the boat now.
The boat spent most of it's life in the bag folded up.
Is there certain problem areas that I should focus on more than others, yes the valves I know, but any others?

Thanks again for all the advice and help!
__________________
Phil'sFrontier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 June 2010, 23:02   #4
Member
 
Country: Canada
Boat name: Mk2
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 7.5hp Honda 4stroke
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14
First Photo

I did go out, re-inflate her, and changed one piece of one valve that you can just screw in and out. Also snapped a picture of her without the floor and oars. I don't know why but I really like the look of a zodiac. I believe on the back it was dated 1985 model year fwiw.

__________________
Phil'sFrontier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 June 2010, 10:01   #5
Member
 
Country: Canada
Town: British Columbia
Make: Gemini
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp 2 str
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,151
Nice looking boat! Following jyasaki's advice about the soapy water spray definitely should help you pinpoint the sourced of the air leakage.

Hard to say for sure from the picture, but it looks like the boat is made with hypalon fabric. It was around 1985 when zodiac started using PVC in their recreation model line up. It is importan to use the glue and patch fabric that are specific to the fabric type of the boat. Are the valve bodies made of plastic or chromed brass? If chromed brass, it is probably a grand raid model and almost certainly made of hypalon. If plastic, it could be either fabric.
__________________
prairie tuber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 June 2010, 12:00   #6
Member
 
Country: Canada
Boat name: Mk2
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 7.5hp Honda 4stroke
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14
I am not sure what you mean by the Valve bodies. What I can tell you about the valve is that the outsides are black plastic, whilst if you look inside, they appear to be brass or something. I did locate a few tiny pinhole leaks in the inflatable keel right where it touches the transom at the stern. Not too concerned about those right now though. I noticed them as I was hosing the grits out, I heard a hissing noise and located the leaks in the keel. No such luck with the big pontoons yet.
__________________
Phil'sFrontier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16 June 2010, 12:33   #7
Member
 
Country: Canada
Boat name: Mk2
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 7.5hp Honda 4stroke
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14
So I talked to the old man about the boat. He claimed it was hypalon. Also confirmed it is the Grand Raid model...Get this, back in the mid 80's when he purchased the boat; it was only $3000!

I would like more information about the valves. As I suspect they are the main culprit of leaking(though I haven't confirmed this yet). Can they be rebuilt, replaced?
Zodiac's seem to be a bit of a black art here. The local dealer is no help what so ever. It's like they sell Zodiac's, but if you have a problem with it we can't fix it of help you fix it.

I am pretty much at the mercy of this forum as to what I need to know...hope you guys can help me...
__________________
Phil'sFrontier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16 June 2010, 17:35   #8
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
Any rafting companies/outfitters nearby?

You'd be surprised at how much their stuff parallels ours...

That said, if you can get some pictures of the offending (or at least suspected offending) valves, someone should be able to suggest a course of action.

But the soapy water thing should really be able to locate your problem (whether it's the valves or not...)

jky
__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 June 2010, 00:15   #9
Member
 
Country: Canada
Town: British Columbia
Make: Gemini
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp 2 str
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,151
I'd also like to see more detail pictures. Does the valve housing look like the one in this picture, or is it all plastic? Can you show us a close up picture of the transom plate?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	fd_1.jpg
Views:	295
Size:	25.6 KB
ID:	51962   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010146dnsz.jpg
Views:	362
Size:	62.3 KB
ID:	51963   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010002dns.jpg
Views:	348
Size:	125.8 KB
ID:	51964  
__________________
prairie tuber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 June 2010, 05:33   #10
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Anchorage
Make: Zodiac MKIII GR
Length: 4m +
Engine: Johnson 25
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 63
As prairie tuber suggests, and by the looks of your Zodiac I would suspect that you have a Grand Raid model MKII Zodiac made from Hypolon…. Especially given the year code you have supplied.

After having spent the better part of 6 months learning everything I can about a similar vintage GR MKIII I can offer up a couple of things. First off, your Dad was correct… put the belt sander away! For patches you should mark out the outline with a ball point pen and hand sand with 80 grit wet or dry paper. Wipe off with a rag moistened with toluliene (incorrect spelling I am sure) and then apply your two part hypolon contact cement to both the patch and boat. When just dry to touch, apply patch to boat. Power sanding is bad for a couple of reasons. First it is far more aggressive than needed, its hard to control, builds up heat and can end in disaster faster than you can blink an eye…..

For your leak issue try pulling out on the valve assembly to expose a portion of the inner valve cone and apply some grease type lube with an acid brush. It only takes a small amount so don’t go crazy with it…. I used DC-33 but pretty much anything will work as long as you don’t use a bunch. While pulling out on the valve with a small amount of pressure, it should now rotate from “Navigation” to “Inflation” with ease. Rotate each valve back and forth a bunch of times this way to kind of spread that grease around inside the cone area of the valve.

Note that these “military” style valves also incorporate an inner spring that allows the valves to operate as an over pressure “pop-off” in the event of over pressure doo to the thermal heating of the tubes in the sun, or excessive pumping when filling the boat. When you pull out on the valve, you are simulating this “pop-off” action of the valve.

When closing the valve with the little arrow pointing at the center of the green “navigation” zone, be sure to remove the outer cap and check valve from the main valve knob and listen for leakage coming from within the valve housing. Even though the arrow is pointed in the green “navigation” zone, there is a very minimal area for it to properly index and stop leaking. Once you find that by listening to the leakage, or lack thereof, then reinstall the check valve and cap and you should be good to go.
__________________

__________________
Alangaq is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:36.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.