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Old 17 June 2010, 10:31   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alangaq View Post
Wipe off with a rag moistened with toluliene (incorrect spelling I am sure) and then apply your two part hypolon contact cement to both the patch and boat. When just dry to touch, apply patch to boat.
Toluene is the correct spelling; note that a) Toluene is pretty nasty stuff - be careful with it if you use it; b) Toluene can be hard to find (at least here in the US; don't know about Canada), so MEK makes a good substitute (also note that while MEK is better than Toluene healthwise, it isn't by much, so the same warnings apply.)

Rather than a single layer of glue, follow the adhesive manufacturer's directions (usually 2 or 3 coats with drying time between; last coat allowed to just tack off before assembling parts. Follow with as much pressure as you can get on the join in order to bond the two adhesive treated parts together.)

I agree with the no power sanding part, unless you have a huge repair area, in which case use a not-very-aggressive cutting medium, and go really slow...


jky
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Old 22 June 2010, 15:46   #12
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Thanks for the great advice guys...can't say that enough. Today I will go out and take some pictures of the valves. I can tell you there are no 'chromed' pieces. The Valves are black plastic on the outside. But I will take a shot of two for you guys to study

The reason I used the belt sander was this...on the glue(can't recall the name but it was a 2 part glue with a bottle of hardener, and required 3 coats) it stated the repaired area should be showing fabric. I started with some meduim grit paper and was sanding by hand for about 10 minutes. Looked like it was going to take a long time so I fired up the belt sander(must be the carpenter in me...lol). I think next time I will try the hand held rotary tool though.
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Old 22 June 2010, 17:40   #13
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Valve Photo's

Here are some photo's of the valve and transom. When I pumped it up this time I turned the valve to navigate with the outer cap off I got some air coming out. On one side the air was coming out pretty fast and turning it to 'navigation' didn't change a thing. Of coarse when I put on the outer cap the air stops..but does it really?? I imagine some would leak out of there no matter how tight you screw on that outer cap.
On the other side the valve seemed to work a little better. Turning it to 'navigation' slowed the air, and I could find one small spot where there was just a small trickle of air coming out with t he outer cap removed.









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Old 22 June 2010, 19:05   #14
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The reason I used the belt sander was this...on the glue(can't recall the name but it was a 2 part glue with a bottle of hardener, and required 3 coats) it stated the repaired area should be showing fabric.
I have never heard of that before. Every glue I've used specifically says *not* to go down to the reinforcing fabric.

Assuming the glue is compatible with the outer material layer, all you need to do is key it up a bit (i.e. scuff it) to give it a bit of tooth for the glue to hang on to.

I'd be interested in hearing what glue you used.

jky
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Old 23 June 2010, 14:18   #15
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Those valves look pretty similar to mine and I am pretty sure they are the military style. There is most assuredly a “sweet spot” when you turn that knob to navigation that will stop all leakage from the valve (at least on mine) but it is a very minute thing… if you rotate the knob a couple of degrees either side of that “sweet spot” you will hear leakage coming from the valve. After inflation I close each valve listening for the leakage to stop, and only then do I install the outer check valve and cap. The check valve and caps that I have do have o-rings on them, but still will allow for some noticeable pressure loss overnight if I don’t have the main valve positioned perfectly.

Did you try pulling out on the valves and lubing them? That should help with the leakage I would think.
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Old 23 June 2010, 14:22   #16
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Also... that pressure guage in you picture is exceedingly cool!! I wish I could find one of those!

you will also note that if you look inside your valves that you can see the ports in there. shoot some kind of lube in there and work the valve back and forth.
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Old 23 June 2010, 15:02   #17
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Hi there. I had this problem when i first had my zodiac. Try turning each valve to gonflage after inflating- continuing to try and pump it should now become almost impossible. Also if you listen carefully to the valve as you turn it 360, you can here when the valve is seaping and and when it seals closed. hope this helps.
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Old 23 June 2010, 15:48   #18
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Yesterday when it was pumped up I noticed that one side seemed more deflated(I pumped up the boat and left the valves on navigation). When I turned the valve back to inflation on the left side it seemed to take air from the bow. Again when I turned the right valve to inflation it seemed to have air taken out and into the left pontoon. I think the next step is to spray the boat down and locate any leaks. Now I know to concentrate on the valves, as well as the left side of the boat.

The Pressure gauge in the picture is the original.


The oars are another story...they are both in working condition, however one is missing a screw(easy); and both oars could use some glass work to repair cracks on the blades.
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Old 24 June 2010, 15:17   #19
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the valves are "intercommunication / inflation valves" hence why the air in going from one chamber to the other- eventually each chamber will have the same pressure if you continue to 'play' around with the valves before inflating any more. I am pretty convinced that your problem lies with the position of each valve rather than any punctures as like you said, you have already looked for these.
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Old 26 June 2010, 12:12   #20
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I am really suspecting the valves now. I did another search for leaks. Didn't find anything really. May have found one small tinnie tiny leak but nothing accounting for the air loss I am achieving.
Using my exceedingly cool pressure gauge I pump the boat to maximum recomended pressure. I can come back in an hour and the boat will be pretty well right out of the green zone on the gauge.
I suspect the main culprit to be valves as well....back to the drawing board...lol
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