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Old 01 February 2014, 16:11   #31
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Good point.
I was going to undo the bolts and remove it when towing any distance but have came to the conclusion that I'm goin to leave it mounted permanently on the transom.
The bolts holding the plate onto the transom are above the water line but two of the will get splashes so im gonna sika flex them and leave it on.
As the plate that the engine mounts onto sticks out about 12 inches past the tube it presents a hazard.
I also have a honwave boat cover to cover her up with.
Again the plate will stop the cover from being used.
I have therefore decided to cut the 50mm box section.
Essentially cutting the bracket in half.
Im going to fit a square box section sleeve into the end that carries the engine.
This will protrude about 6 inch or so.
This 6 inch protrusion will insert into the section permanently mounted to the boat. A couple of m8 bolts to secure it and voila!
Hope that makes sense.
I will post pictures once I have completed this this part.
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Old 01 February 2014, 16:26   #32
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Sounds like a plan.might be worth a test as it is first..good luck chuck
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Old 01 February 2014, 18:38   #33
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Sounds like a plan.might be worth a test as it is first..good luck chuck
Too cold to test the Honwave just now brrrrrrrr!
I will get it in the water soon though.
My only concern when I conceived this notion was that the mount/ transom would be too flimsy to support the engine.
Having mounted the plate onto the robust Honwave transom today, I am convinced the idea will work as the structure is absolutely solid.
Having seen the way Honwave launch wheels mount around the trim tabs on the airdeck versions I am confident that the transom is more than up to the job.
All I have done essentialy is extend my transom outwards.
The physics falls into place thereafter.
I have access to a fab shop so I can fine tune the dimensions/physics at a later date if need be no probs.
Fingers crossed it doesn't need too much tuning!
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Old 01 February 2014, 20:19   #34
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Still calm day in this pic.
This is where I play with my Honwave most often.
The rocky outcrops have deep gutters which can be read perfectly with my garmin fish finder.
Lots of thick kelp beds for ambush fish which makes for real hard takes!
When the predominant wind is westerly and pushing you towards them rocks so firmly that you can't row against it sometimes, queue the auxiliary engine.
No messing here when things go wrong.
I don't have any photos of my usual fishing beat when conditions are anything other than flat calm coz you can't afford to play about with cameras and take your eye off the ball when there's a swell.
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Old 01 February 2014, 20:21   #35
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And one more.
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Old 02 February 2014, 02:02   #36
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Originally Posted by bartiny View Post
I was toying with the idea of an electric aux as they are alot slimmer and would have fit on the transom but I was soon put off the idea when I asked the question on here.
I have an electric aux on my Zodiac Futura. Don't be put off.
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Old 02 February 2014, 04:37   #37
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I guess everyone is different..just as their boats and needs are different.

I wouldn’t dream of going to sea without an auxiliary engine, even on my smallest boats, and its not a false sense of security. I often go to remote areas off north west Scotland where there are few boats to assist if I got into difficulty.

The Aux has got me back to shore several times..due things like prop pin shearing, dirt in carb..plugs oiling due to my preferred slow trolling speeds ..etc

So when one engine goes out.. I don’t panic, I just drop the other and carry on. No spoiled day out. The engines both get used regularly too..as I often use the Aux to troll my lures.. saving fuel, noise and wear n tear on the main engine.

I dumped the transom wheels ..as I think the Aux engine more important than wheels.

I trailer launch the heavy one..so no problems launching or retrieving on my own. If I land on a shore and want to move the boat on land, I inflate my two “roller boats” and pull the boat around on them.




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Old 02 February 2014, 06:15   #38
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Looking at your photos of the outrigger idea Kaman... just be cautious and give it a good testing in safe waters before putting an engine on it.

Try going at planing speed..then sit on the tube where the outrigger is mounted on to push it down to water level and get an idea how quickly the boat could swing round ?

Breaking waves have a lot of power and weight behind them. Perhaps the outrigger is high enough for it to never get submerged..but I know in my own boat..sometimes the waves would be around that hight ..if the boat was rolling as I went beam onto waves and there was a bit of swell, white tops around.

The outrigger and transom will probably be strong enough.. but you could suddenly be sitting in a boat full of water ?

Just a though..I may be totally wrong. .. but something to be aware of
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Old 02 February 2014, 11:02   #39
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Hi Gurnard.
Ideally I would have mounted the aux the same way as you have done with yours.
Due to the launch wheels and transom not being wide enough I couldn't.
Im going to cut 150mm off the bottom of the mounting plate as the mounting bracket on the Suzuki 2.5 is 150mm shallower than the height of the plate.
This will give a bit more clearance from the water
As described above im also going to cut the box section and put a sleeve in it allowing the protruding engine plate to be bolted on an off the bracket as required.
This feature will allow me to leave the bracket on permanently.
Once I have made these mods and painted it I will post pics of the finished product.
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Old 03 February 2014, 08:42   #40
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Played about with the bracket again.
I used a ratchet strap to pull engine down downwards slightly when in locked up position.
This to stop shaft / propellor from bouncing upwards when on the move.
I ratchet strapped it onto rear carry handle.
Whole unit seemed solid.
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