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Old 08 July 2012, 22:23   #11
MEE
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Country: USA
Town: Jacksonville, Florida
Boat name: Blue Bomber
Make: Bombard
Length: 3m +
Engine: Outboard Nissan 8hp
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 47
Regarding you outboard, you mentioned that you muff flushed it at the end of the season. If you are operating it in salt or muddy water you should flush it after every outing. If you have not been doing this for some time there could be contamination building up in the cooling passages and hoses. This could explain the weak "tell tale" stream that you mentioned. There are products that you could flush the engine with that claim to remove some of this built up material. Otherwise, if it gets worse or starts running hot under load (don't know if you have a temperature gauge) you will need to have this contamination/build-up mechanically cleaned. This would envolve replacing hoses and removing parts from the engine to get access to clean the cooling passages. I don't mean to scare you and hopfully it will not come to this. If you start flushing after every use it will help prevent it from getting worse and may help clean some of the contamination out on its own. Also they may be some contamination in the tell tale nozzel itself. You may want to take a look in there and carfully clean it with a snake or wire.

I am not sure about over there (across the pond) but here in the states we are mostly using fuel with 10% ethanol. Fuel like this can be a problem with long term storage. The best approach is to keep the tank full and add fuel stabalizer or drain it completely. A partially filled tank with enthanol blended fuel is more likely to absorb water form the air in the tank and this can lead to fuel separation. This can lead to problems with the fuel pump, carb, and other fuel system issues.
Cheers Mate
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Old 09 July 2012, 07:29   #12
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Country: UK - England
Town: Northampton
Make: RibTec
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outbaord mariner 75
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 506
Hi
FLush after every outing
Covers off and very light spray down with fresh water then a good spray of WD40
wash outside down with soapy water
spray wd40 on external moving parts.
grease parts where needed.

TRAILER
wash off with fresh water every dip.
spary down with WD40 regually. check break cables.
grese winch.

Now the bit that I have done to mine for 20+ years and the 2 stoke is going strong...
FLOOD the engine by operating the energency stop and putting the engine to full throttle while cranking it over for a few seconds. do this at the end of the season or for long periods of no use.
this floods the engine and covers the internal parts in oil/fuel.
My logic behind doing ths as opposed ot the run it dry method is that this is a 2storke engine.
oil is carried in the fuel to lubricate the whole engine. so no fuel = no lube.
and i have had no issues.
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Old 09 July 2012, 12:28   #13
MEE
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Country: USA
Town: Jacksonville, Florida
Boat name: Blue Bomber
Make: Bombard
Length: 3m +
Engine: Outboard Nissan 8hp
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 47
jezza2011 has some great advice. Flooding the engine with fuel oil mix will help protect many engine components. The full throttle, no ignition is a great idea. This configures the oil injection system to mix 50:1 instead of 100:1 as used for idle. If you don't have oil injection it will still work. You just get what ever you mixed as a protective coating.

WD40 is great for displacing water and preventing corrosion. I have also used Boeshield T-9 for the same purposes. It is a bit more expensive, however, I have found that it provides a much more tenacious coating on all surfaces.
http://boeshield.com/

Regarding your trailer, you need to also do regular maintenance on the hub bearings. If you don't learn to work on them at home you will learn someday on the side of the road. I would recommend you install some super lube hubs from tie down engineering. Zerk fitting on the back of the hubs allow you to lubricate the back and front bearings by pushing out the old grease while supplying new grease. Not only will it push out old grease it will also push out water or any other contaimination that may have intruded. If you anything other than grease coming out it is a good warning sign that you need to replace the hub grease seals.
http://products.tiedown.com/viewitems/marine-trailer-hubs-brakes/super-lube-hub-kits-2?

Get-R-Done (cheers)
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