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Old 24 June 2014, 07:40   #21
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[QUOTE=Max...
If, you really, really want to go for it then I think a 2.7m air deck and 6 hp is where I'd think the absolute maximum set up is given your very limiting circumstances. And sticking to rivers, harbours etc.

Check the guides on this site and the search facility for everything you need to know regarding gear, engines etc.[/QUOTE]

I agree totally I bought my 3.8 sib with the intentions of being able to chuck it in the boot of a car and get out on the water on my own whenever the opportunity arose. but the reality is my 3.8 sib is too heavy deflated and rolled up to carry more than a few meters on my own I certainly couldn't get it up a flight of stairs tbh you need two people to roll it up .the outboard mine is a 25hp i really struggle to get it into my freelander on my own and i wouldn't want to carry it far.we do manage as the mrs helps and its still a lot less faff on than launching our old speedboat .also as a new convert to boating in general you do not want to be going going out to sea in a small low powered inflatable on your own the coastguards are busy enough as it is
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Old 25 June 2014, 08:37   #22
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Originally Posted by D. Jones View Post
As a complete novice to boat ownership I would like to chuck some questions up if I may, to find out if SIB ownership is a realistic proposition for me.

At the moment I live in a second floor flat - therefore no shed or garage access - but I do have a spare room. Further I drive a Golf sized hatchback (looks a lot like a Golf, actually - even down to the badges...).

So what I'm trying to determine is, how realistic it would be to own and run something along the lines of a 3m-3.6m SIB + removable hard floor and a 10/15hp 2 stroke.

Just how difficult would it be to get an engine in and out the back of a car? As far as getting it up and down stairs I'm thinking stairclimber trolley.

In addition, once the boat is out of the water should it ideally be dried off before it gets deflated and stored over winter, for example?

Basically I suppose I'm trying to find out of anyone else actually lives in the same sort of place with a similar sized car - does it take the shine off ownership, having to deal with stairs, no garage/garden, limited access to the car boot, etc?

Would love to hear from anyone in similar circumstances. I live about 7 miles from the Tyne/Newcastle, so have thoughts about launching off a slipway with some wheels on the transom and making my way down to Tynemounth and up the coast or whatever. What do you think...?
Hi all

For the past year I've used a pegeout 106 van to transport my Honwave 3.5 and 20hp mariner around , so seats down no problem, flat and stairs if with a mate not to bad but hassle.its how keen you are at the end of the day.
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Old 25 June 2014, 10:18   #23
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Nice to know dave, thanks. May have garage access so that would make life a lot easier, although not a definite yet, but good to hear that you consider it do-able. Have also found a free slipway not too far away which has a filling station very nearby - so hopefully I can also wash the boat down if necessary as well as flush out with the water hose on the forecourt.
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Old 25 June 2014, 10:52   #24
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Hi everyone. First post here so sorry to barge in on D Jones's thread but in a way I'm in the same boat so to speak! I do have a actually a boat but I'm a real novice about using it.

It's 3 metre Quicksilver with an inflatable floor and a Suzuki 4hp 4 stroke engine.

I have some basic questions I'm hoping someone can answer.


1/ The Quicksilver came with a short plank of wood with mitred ends that the instructions say is an engine attaching plate. So I guess it goes against the transom to protect it from the engine attaching bolts. But is it supposed to be fixed? And if so, what with?

2/ The drain bung has some kind of basic one-way valve incorporated into it. Can this be used on the water? I guess not if the stern is deeper under the water.

3/ I took the engine off the boat the other day and the steering swivelled in my grip and I nearly dropped it in the sand. Could there be a lever I've missed to lock it or was I simply using the wrong grip?

4/ Is there any rule of thumb to set the trim correctly and is it likely to need adjusting if a second person is in the boat? At the moment the adjusting pin it is at one end of the row of holes.

5/ I have a manual pump with a gauge. Are the gauges reliable/accurate? Only I didn't dare pump up the boat to the pressure stated on the valves since the tubes felt pretty hard. How much should they give?

Thank you for any replies!
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Old 25 June 2014, 11:08   #25
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Hi, welcome to Ribnet, I will have a go at your questions.

1 Really need more info, a picture speaks a 1000 words, but I have never seen a removable transom plate. It could be a thrust board if its a airfloor ?

2 It is a 1 way valve, but in my experience they still let water in if you open it while on the water. Keep it closed and bale as needed.

3 There is usually a screw to increase/decrease the ease with which the engine moves, you were not holding it wrong, its just too loose for transport.

4 Despite a recent posters attempt to find a universal trim position, there isnt one. With practice you will find the position you use most of the time, but as you noticed weight really effects small boats. Start with the engine fully trimmed in (Nearest the transom) and work out. You will know when you go too far, the engine will cavitate and "loose grip".

5 Some work, some dont. The tubes need to be pumped really quite hard, like a drumskin (usually around 3psi). Get your self a battery powered Bravo auto pump, fantastic piece of kit and takes all the stress and worry out of inflating the boat.
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Old 25 June 2014, 11:53   #26
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Thanks for the quick reply Landlockedpirate. The little exploded view of the plate shows it on the outside of the transom. But surely it can't simply be held it place by the engine fixings otherwise it will fall off every time you loosen the engine.

I have some folding launching wheels to go on which I suppose I could use to hold it on. Has anyone got any tips on fitting them? The transom has an id plate in the way. I've just checked and the mystery plate won't actually fit between the tubes!







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Old 25 June 2014, 11:57   #27
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Nope, not for the transom. Its a thrust board, it fits under the floor towards the bow. There will be a pocket under the airfloor to slide it through.
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Old 25 June 2014, 13:45   #28
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Back to the 2nd floor sib for a moment.....

I picked one of these up (as in lifted it off the floor to see hopw heavy it wasn't as opposed to buying it!) when I was in for some other bits & pieces
3D Tender Superlight 290 - Duncan Yacht Chandlers
it is ridiculously light. The smallest one would fit in my ruckksack and weighs less than it would if I were off for a weekend's hillwalking. (I might be wrong but I think the storage bag that comes with it may actually have shoulder straps)

It's lack of weight means a 4 will likely push it along OK.


Yes, a petrol engine will hum a bit, but if you empty the carb before you de- mount it (close the fuel tap & run it untill it dies - then re- start with the choke pulled to totally clear fuel from the "open" passageways) Then drive home with the windows open & leave it in the car overnight (probably drive to work with the windows down as well the following day!) or get a bin bag in the house & tape it tightly round the leg.

Numerous ways to skin the proverbial cat!
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Old 25 June 2014, 14:51   #29
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.its how keen you are at the end of the day.
+1
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Old 25 June 2014, 16:56   #30
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Thanks for the link and encouragement 9D280 and Boatnomad!
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Old 25 June 2014, 22:50   #31
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Nope, not for the transom. Its a thrust board, it fits under the floor towards the bow. There will be a pocket under the airfloor to slide it through.
Thanks for that. I will have a look tomorrow.

Re the original posters question- I find my boat in its bag only movable for short distances on my own. Mainly because of its weight but also because it's so large to get hold of. I do better with the engine. I find I can cuddle that and walk it up the beach or slipway. However when I first bought the boat we used to heft it up (inflated) on to the roof rack of her little Suzuki Ignis, the engine went inside and off we went!

One thing I have learned is that some engines are quite fussy about which way you lay them if they can't travel upright. This may not apply to two strokes (not having a sump) but my four stroke can only be laid down on one side to avoid the engine oil entering the cylinder via the exhaust port.

I'm lucky enough to be able to leave mine pumped up in the garage. I a agree that the hassle of unpacking/inflating/carrying probably would get to you over time.
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Old 25 June 2014, 23:28   #32
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If you can move around a rolled up futon (or mattress) by yourself you have good idea what its like lugging a rolled up SIB around. Do-able but awkward and you might scuff up the walls in the hallways on the way up and down. Smaller would be better along with the air floor.

As far as the engine goes you could get one with a built in flushing attachment and avoid need to run it on muffs or in a bucket. Just hook up a hose and let it run for 10-15 mins. 9.9/10hp would be a max weightwise and an 8hp might be better. Maybe someone here could take you out and show you their SIB and how they manage the bits?

You would need to disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until it dies to make sure the petrol inside is completely gone. Otherwise not a big deal.

The actual fuel can would need to be stored outside in a non-living space, perhaps on a patio.
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Old 26 June 2014, 01:23   #33
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What happened to men today? A small inflatable is not that heavy, nor is an engine under 10HP. The boat itself weighs under 100 lbs, and the motor about the same.

Try scuba diving...cold water gear is heavy!

As I said in my previous post, I wouldn't want to store anything that smelled of fuel in my living space.
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Old 26 June 2014, 03:05   #34
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What happened to men today? A small inflatable is not that heavy, nor is an engine under 10HP. The boat itself weighs under 100 lbs, and the motor about the same.

Try scuba diving...cold water gear is heavy!

As I said in my previous post, I wouldn't want to store anything that smelled of fuel in my living space.
You overestimate the size of the rabbit hutches people in the UK live it
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Old 26 June 2014, 05:19   #35
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I know of someone who has a large trailer he parks in his allocated parking space which he keeps his trike in. I had a 3m air deck which i kept in the spare room in my caravan. Just became a pain
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Old 26 June 2014, 14:31   #36
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Thanks for that. I will have a look tomorrow.

Re the original posters question- I find my boat in its bag only movable for short distances on my own. Mainly because of its weight but also because it's so large to get hold of. I do better with the engine. I find I can cuddle that and walk it up the beach or slipway. However when I first bought the boat we used to heft it up (inflated) on to the roof rack of her little Suzuki Ignis, the engine went inside and off we went!

One thing I have learned is that some engines are quite fussy about which way you lay them if they can't travel upright. This may not apply to two strokes (not having a sump) but my four stroke can only be laid down on one side to avoid the engine oil entering the cylinder via the exhaust port.

I'm lucky enough to be able to leave mine pumped up in the garage. I a agree that the hassle of unpacking/inflating/carrying probably would get to you over time.
FUME

What is it with the time out on this forum? Just written a nicely considered reply to your post which, in fact, gave me a couple of ideas. And then pfft, gone.

Anyway, to summarise - these boat bags - built down to a price rather than up to a solution. So what I was thinking was something along the lines of making up a few straps with cam lock buckles or airline seat type buckles, that can easily be adjusted as well as opened/closed.

I've got plenty of 50mm webbing, buckles, even carabiners if required - the point I'm trying to make is, having a load of straps/handles should make it easier to grapple with and get up a few flights of stairs etc.

Thanks for raising the possibility of frustration re: inflation/deflation - maybe the marina I'd park near would consider taking the boat overnight the odd weekend. I can only ask.
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Old 26 June 2014, 15:19   #37
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What happened to men today?
Nothing (plenty wrong with the youth though...)!

I have no compaints with the weights being quoted, just want to be clear about engines in the boot of a small car - doesn't look like it's too much of an issue, other than fuel smell and the need to store that away from home, as you mentioned.
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Old 26 June 2014, 15:26   #38
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...As far as the engine goes you could get one with a built in flushing attachment and avoid need to run it on muffs or in a bucket. Just hook up a hose and let it run for 10-15 mins. 9.9/10hp would be a max weightwise and an 8hp might be better. Maybe someone here could take you out and show you their SIB and how they manage the bits?

You would need to disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until it dies to make sure the petrol inside is completely gone. Otherwise not a big deal...
I've just realised, I haven't included a fuel tank in my costs.

Is at least 10 min flushing out really needed?

Thanks for the advice re: smaller engine but I feel pretty sure that I want to take advantage of the nearby coast with a Cat C boat + 10hp 2 stroke.
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Old 26 June 2014, 15:39   #39
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I've just realised, I haven't included a fuel tank in my costs.

Is at least 10 min flushing out really needed?

Thanks for the advice re: smaller engine but I feel pretty sure that I want to take advantage of the nearby coast with a Cat C boat + 10hp 2 stroke.
Fuel tanks are cheap (relatively speaking)
Don't forget the safety bits like flares, anchor, line, life jackets, and a handheld VHF radio, all that adds up.

As far as the flushing goes, actually running it with muffs on or in a bucket is better since the thermostat opens up and the fresh water really gets circulated better. The built in flushing attachments aren't as good at getting the salt out. So they need to run a fair bit to get a good rinse. I typically use my flushing attachment for 10-15 mins and then hose down the entire boat before putting it in the garage, on a trailer.

Lots of engines don't get flushed at all, so not its not mandatory. But it will last longer and run better/more reliably if well flushed after use in salt water.
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Old 26 June 2014, 21:22   #40
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FUME

What is it with the time out on this forum? Just written a nicely considered reply to your post which, in fact, gave me a couple of ideas. And then pfft, gone.
I know the feeling.. I belong to a couple of other forums and if my reply is going to be more than a couple of lines I put it on the clipboard (highlight-then ctrl key plus C) then if it vanishes I can just paste it back in (ctrl plus V). If I'm already using the clipboard for something else I even copy the text into an email just in case. (I apologise if I'm teaching my grandmother to suck eggs here!)

Good idea about the straps. The bag on mine isn't really even a bag, more like a stretchy sheet with straps. I sort of stagger around hugging the thing hoping nobody gets in my way..
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