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Old 30 June 2008, 12:43   #11
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The advice about build quality is a sound one, I have built/customised countless Quicksilvers and owned 5 of the Heavy Duty ones. The only problem encountered or reported was a dodgy drain bung design that was fixed some time ago.

As for the Max HP, I would never suggest anyone exceed the manufacturer's limit but I can also say that there is a very fine member of RIB.net that has a QS 4.3 + 40HP and finds them a very enjoyable pairing!

At the other extreme I have used the same boat with a 3.5HP motor and three people plus gear aboard aboard to great effect, so I guess it all depends on what you will be doing with it as to what engine you need.

We are about to market a very keenly priced 20HP (tiller) four stroke with the 3.8m Quicky, a nice combination that has performance, versatility and cheap running costs going for it.
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Old 01 July 2008, 04:29   #12
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"Excel XHD 430 (Ali floor)
40Hp 2 stroke with remotes
Plastismo jockey console
Transom Wheels"
This lot is going to weigh in to more than you are going to lug around with out a trailer! I would start looking at a small rib with all its benefits!
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Old 01 July 2008, 05:46   #13
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Ah, but he is going to have a trailer: http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?t=25200

Sounds like a good setup for what he wants to do.

John
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Old 01 July 2008, 05:51   #14
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Originally Posted by John Kennett View Post
Ah, but he is going to have a trailer: http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?t=25200

Sounds like a good setup for what he wants to do.

John
I will get my coat then!
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Old 01 July 2008, 07:56   #15
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I did have to double check when I saw your post because I couldn't believe that he was planning this sort of setup without a trailer.

John
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Old 01 July 2008, 13:40   #16
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I did have to double check when I saw your post because I couldn't believe that he was planning this sort of setup without a trailer.

John
Sorry for any confusion, yes I will have a trailer. As mentioned in my other post I would go for a RIB, but I need to be able to use a small jetty, which you cannot get a car down.

Back to the orginal question! how do I mount the jockey console on a Ali floor?

Cheers

Adam
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Old 01 July 2008, 16:19   #17
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Back to the orginal question! how do I mount the jockey console on a Ali floor?

Cheers

Adam
Hi Adam, have you looked at mounting schemes used on other boats?

What about using aluminum angle? Bolt it to the floor sections, install the floor, then bolt the console to the angle.

You could use lock nuts to ensure vibration doesn't work the fasteners loose, and possibly cover the bolt heads with RTV or a rubber patch to prevent any possibility of chaffing...

Just thinking out loud.

chuck
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Old 02 July 2008, 18:38   #18
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think i would agree with lugnut about aluminium angle and bolts i did the same thing with my humber sib jocky seat a number of years back though it was to a wooden floor ,just depends if you want it permanant or so you can take it off for some other reason ,only thing to look out for is corrosion setting in later on if using different metals , bolts ,washers ect.though if assembled with waterproof grease or sealer it should keep it at bay, and dont forget theres been a few accidents recently caused by consoles coming loose so it needs a sound job ,but it looks like you will have a nice little set up when finished . good luck ,mart.
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Old 03 July 2008, 02:30   #19
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Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated.
I think I will go with the angle ali, stainless bolts etc.

One quick question, how far forward/back should I mount the console. Is there a general rule of thumb?

Cheers

Adam
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Old 03 July 2008, 07:30   #20
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dont forget theres been a few accidents recently caused by consoles coming loose so it needs a sound job ,but it looks like you will have a nice little set up when finished . good luck ,mart.

I just read one of those stories. Holy cow!

Normal practice would be the use of washers on the back side of the floor. Do you think using a a long strip along the whole length instead of washers would be more sound? This would in effect sandwich the floor between the angle, and a long strip of aluminum or steel. The strip and angle would have to be match drilled together, then use one of them to mark the hole locations on the floor.
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