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Old 29 June 2012, 11:25   #11
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Looks pretty sweet to me! Other than the tubes. Looks like they need another couple of PSI
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Old 29 June 2012, 13:25   #12
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If you are travelling with the outboard up, sometimes a block of wood is handy to jam between the engine and transom to relieve some pressure when it is jumping about if you have speed humps or similar there.
Someone in West Marine suggested that to me. I bought a Transom Saver, but it won't fit on my trailer and motor. So I might go the "wood" option. But i don't understand....if I hit a bump, wont the motor lift up and make the wood come loose?

Is it a bad idea to travel with the motor down?
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Old 29 June 2012, 13:58   #13
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Re the wood comming loose, with mine i used to put ratchet strap around leg and to trailer to keep leg tension on wood.prob best to travel with leg down but you must be sure you always have enough clearence between botton of skeg and surface especially over speed humps if in doubt tilt engine.l
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Old 29 June 2012, 15:06   #14
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Personally, I would ditch the front roller the bow sits on and replace it with a piece of carpeted 2 x 6. The roller will just push into the tubes, while the bunk will give it a gentler surface to push against. Ditto with the keel roller, though you may have to get a bracket or two to mount it.

From what I see, your bunks look OK; long enough, well positioned, though I would like to see the outer parts of the transom supported a little more. Probably fine, though.

You will likely want to do 2 things with the motor: keep it from penduluming fore and aft, and keep it from swinging side to side. The former problem is best solved by triangulating the motor to the trailer frame (which also decreases stresses on the transom), but can also be done by hitting the transom (which will keep the motor from beating up the mounts, but not the transom. The latter can be a bungie cord from the tiller to a lifeline D-ring, or something else.

I ran my boat with the tubes touching the (steel) fenders; not ideal but it didn't seem to cause any problem. When I replaced the bunks, I raised them up by a couple of inches to get clearance (actually used additional 2 x 6 sections between the bracket and bunk, since my brackets were raised fully.)

The guide-ons are nice; you're going to want them in tight to the tubes if you recover with any swell or current.

To increase the nose weight, you can either move the boat forward, or the axle back. You want about 7-10% of the trailer/boat weight on the tow ball. Less and the trailer may develop sway. More and you upset the balance of the tow vehicle (in extreme case, causing steering and braking problems.)

Only other thing I'd add would be a strap from the handle to the trailer tongue to keep the bow from lifting on the highway.

Congrats on the boat;

jky
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Old 29 June 2012, 16:19   #15
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Thanks so much for all the good advice. If it was just me, and 20 years ago, Id feel invincible and not be so worried. But its going to be me and my daughter, and last thing I want to do is take any chances.
As the guys say - the setup look good - except that the tubes are waaay too soft. If you don't have a pressure gauge and recommended pressure to work from, aim for hard enough to bounce a punch back.

Safety, you sound like a sensible guy. Take it easy at first, ensure that your kid is dressed for the conditions and is wearing a LJ. Make sure you are too and wear the killcord when underway (soooo many accidents happen because someone forgets). Have a method of communication with the shore that will survive a ducking.

Oh and try to enjoy yourself - it's supposed to be fun
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Old 29 June 2012, 16:29   #16
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Oh and try to enjoy yourself - it's supposed to be fun
Really? After all that scaremongering?
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Old 29 June 2012, 16:31   #17
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As the guys say - the setup look good - except that the tubes are waaay too soft. If you don't have a pressure gauge and recommended pressure to work from, aim for hard enough to bounce a punch back.

Safety, you sound like a sensible guy. Take it easy at first, ensure that your kid is dressed for the conditions and is wearing a LJ. Make sure you are too and wear the killcord when underway (soooo many accidents happen because someone forgets). Have a method of communication with the shore that will survive a ducking.

Oh and try to enjoy yourself - it's supposed to be fun
You reminded me of something there, good practice, to have your significant other or a friend expecting a call from you by a certain time letting them know your off the water, and then if you dont call they know somethings wrong. Bit more relevant on the open sea but good practice anyhow...
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Old 29 June 2012, 17:49   #18
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Someone in West Marine suggested that to me. I bought a Transom Saver, but it won't fit on my trailer and motor. So I might go the "wood" option. But i don't understand....if I hit a bump, wont the motor lift up and make the wood come loose?

Is it a bad idea to travel with the motor down?
Only if the skeg makes contact with the road surface. Most SIBs sit high enough on the trailer that this isn't a problem. Watch coming off or heading onto slopes though; depending on the length of the trailer your motor may lose a *lot* of ground clearance.

Whether or not the motor lifts due to bumps and such depends on the motor. Any play in a locked system will still be there, though, allowing the motor to work on the stops, which is why on mine, I use a transom saver and lock the motor firmly against it (different case, though; much larger motor, and power tilt/trim, so it's easier to do.)

jky
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Old 29 June 2012, 17:59   #19
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Guys....these are excellent posts, and I am taking it all into consideration. I will on Lake Hopatcong in Jersey tomorrow morning. Perhaps I might see some of you there.

Pictures to follow

I can't wait!!!
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Old 29 June 2012, 18:15   #20
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Really? After all that scaremongering?
What? The bit that said "Inflate your boat, drive carefully, dress sensibly, wear your lifejacket and killcord and carry a waterproofed phone"?

Yeah, the End of the World is Nigh for sure...
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