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Old 23 February 2010, 06:41   #1
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Is it pvc or hypalon.

hi there, my names Jon. I've just got my sib and would like to get to work on it, but im having trouble finding any information about the products to use. Can anyone please help with any info about my boat. The plate on the transom says BARRUS MODEL GB 23 SL. The flap over the valves says T type valve 2370113m but the bungs are hardwood home made replacements. Thanks for any help you may give regards Jon...
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Old 27 February 2010, 06:45   #2
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T type valves...

The T type valves are nylon military valves, available from River Connections @ $14.50. I had just about given up on this boat and was thinking about filling it with expanding foam. I'm still not sure of the tubes but I've ordered a repair kit in hypalon to see if it sticks. Can anyone please give any advice on using the wrong patch, eg. will it work at all? Will it come off when wet? etc. Regards Jon...
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Old 27 February 2010, 07:01   #3
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Why not ask E P Barrus? You may even find one of the Barrus guys on here knows about it.

Filling it with foam would be a very very silly thing to do. It may burst it as it expands and any water that gets in will be impossible to get rid of.
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Old 27 February 2010, 07:02   #4
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Jon

Hi and welcome to Rib.net

From experiance it can be difficult to tell the differance between PVC and Hypalon unless you have both in front of you, and even then it can sometimes be hard.

You'll find that the Hypalon glue will stick to PVC, and look like an effective repair, but unfortunately it won't be as strong as using the proper glue and may peel off very easily.

One tip I have found is to try wiping a small area with a dab of acetone.
It will clean Hypalon which after a few minutes will dry back to normal, but it will soften the top layer of PVC leaving it sticky to the touch for quite a while.
In fact It's a good idea to wipe any areas to glue on PVC with the acetone as the softening privides a good key for the first hit of glue.

I asked the same question on here a couple of years ago when I was trying to find out if the SIB I'd purchased was PVC or Hypalon, I'll have a search and see if I can find it as I got some good advise.

Nasher.
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Old 27 February 2010, 17:35   #5
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Thank you.

Hi again, i've emailed ep barrus and done the acetone thing. In my dubious opinion she is hypalon. I hope so or i'll have a repair kit spare. Cheers for the pointers.
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Old 27 February 2010, 22:16   #6
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advantage and limitations of hyphalon

general advantage:
HYPALON has outstanding resistance to most chemicals, heat and oil are among the most important characteristics. Further, HYPALON is flame resistant, offers excellent color stability, weather and abrasion resistance. Low moisture absorption, good dielectric qualities, and high abrasion resistance are among its other features. Like most synthetics, HYPALON® is superior to NATURAL RUBBER in temperature, oil and resistance to the effect of ozone.

limitation:
HYPALON is generally attacked by concentrated oxidizing acids, esters, ketones, chlorinated, aromatic and nitro hydrocarbons.
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Old 02 March 2010, 11:52   #7
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Its official.

Thanks for that Robster.

I have just received an email from a very helpful Gentleman at Barrus and my boat is as i hoped Hypalon. Woo, any advice on patching?
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Old 02 March 2010, 12:02   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by long1jon View Post
I have just received an email from a very helpful Gentleman at Barrus and my boat is as i hoped Hypalon. Woo, any advice on patching?
Surface prep. IMO, that's the thing that most people skimp on.

Your best bet would be to do a web search for "hypalon repair" and pay attention to the fine points in the directions.

jky
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Old 02 March 2010, 14:02   #9
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Hi,
don t worry about working with Hypalon.
As in most cases, you have to follow the rules of the glue manufacturer, no tricks.

Around a hole , you prepare a section of minimum 1 inch around. Cut a patch.
Hold it on the area and sign the tube with a pencil. Take sandpaper No80 and grind the patch inside and the marked area half down, until you see little shape of the tissue inside.
Whipe the area with MEK or acetone .
Best to cover outside the marked line with masking tape.
Take Bostik 2402 or scimilar glue, mix it with hardener. I alway use a clean marmelade glass
to mix and hold the glue ,because it could be closed during work.
Make a first layer with paintbrush on the tube and on your patch. Wait ca 45 minutes.
Make a second layer on both surfaces an let 10-15 minutes dry .
The bring the patch exactly on the marked and taped point and rub it down with something round and hart, like a knife handle.
The ambient temperature should not be under 15 degrees and not over 25 degrees.
During procedure, there should not be changing airfow, changing temperatures, people
looking with the nose to the tube, because there will be humidity covering the glue and
it will not bond .

If you have a cut , more than ca half inch, you should make an inside and outside patch.

Try it.
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Old 02 March 2010, 16:10   #10
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I suggest you refer to these instructions. It might seem like a hassle, but I assure you that following these directions and observing proper environmental limits will give you a very reliable bond.
http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/INFO/INFOHYPNEO.html
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