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Old 04 April 2011, 14:26   #41
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1.25 is the standard pitch for M8 if memory serves. You are right the kit is expensive, however the insert itself is very cheap. Given the portability of your damaged component I would be tempted to call a couple of local engine reconditioners. For a fee I am sure they would insert one for you if they use them.

You could always ask your local Wurth rep for a demonstration!

I have had surprising success with stud extractors in the past, the conical LH threaded type. This, if succesful would be cheaper still.

I look forward to hearing how it goes.
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Old 04 April 2011, 17:22   #42
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I've had exactly the opposite with stud extractors, or 'easyouts' as they are sometimes called.

The bigger ones are OK, but down at this size I find they tend to snap off leaving you with a much harder lump of metal stuck in the old stud that is far too hard to drill out.

I'll get my jig made this coming weekend and get the centres drilled out to 6.3mm before going any further. You never know, I might be lucky enough to be able to get the rest of each stud out by collapsing them in on themselves.

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Old 04 April 2011, 17:45   #43
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I'd helicoil 1st-you can still timesert after. I've had a couple of nasty incidents with old timeserts on Suzuki bike engines where they've corroded in between the timesert and the head and the whole thing came out as one piece, bolt still in timesert.

If you can drill a decent size pilot hole in the broken bolts, it may be worth trying a trick I found worked.Freeze it using spray then use the drill on hammer action whilst extending the pilot hole (use a cheap nasty and even a blunt drill bit, it'll blunt it very fast anyway)

You may find the stud will start to wind in slightly. It's a simple job to remove it with a dot punch then.
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Old 05 April 2011, 08:56   #44
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I once new a chap who could reliably drill out the centre of a stud and then peel out the remains of the thread with narrow nose pliers. Mind you he was a magician in the workshop. He could even smoke a cigarette from start to finish without removing it from his mouth, nor any ash falling off the end - impressive stuff!
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Old 05 April 2011, 15:13   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flotsam View Post
I once new a chap who could reliably drill out the centre of a stud and then peel out the remains of the thread with narrow nose pliers.
That's what I mean by collapsing it in on itself.
I've managed to do it on M12 bolts once or twice, but nothing this small.
The trick is to open the hole out to just under the size of the bottom diameter of the thread, then collapse the rest into the centre with a punch.

Can't say I can do it reliably though
More by luck than anything.

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Old 09 April 2011, 15:43   #46
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PVC fabric doesn't like being glued around compound curves - Fact.

Last weekend I managed to get a patch on the rear corner of one side of the deck, which was a pig to do as it involved trying to glue the patch over a compound curve.
In the end I cut some darts out if it and hoped for the best.

I used the Grey material instead of the correct off-white colour as it is much thinner, and coped with a small amount of stretching and compressing unlike the thicker correct colour material.

I pumped it up Tuesday evening and it stayed up OK until today, but I decided it would be best to add some mechanical strength over the top in a true 'belt and braces' fashion.

First images are the initial patch that sealed the cracks in the top surface, and the leaks along the seam made brittle by petrol leaking on it.
The final pic shows the strengthening piece added over the top, and the start of the patch on the other deck half.
The strenghtening piece is mirrored underneath.

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Old 09 April 2011, 15:53   #47
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On the engine front I've made up a drilling jig to accurately drill out the broken bolts.

I used the cylinder head to mark the position of the holes, then turned up some guides in my lathe before tack welding them to the plate.

So far I've drilled a pilot hole down the centre of each bolt.
Now I'll open the holes up in the jig in my Pillar drill in a couple of stages, and at each stage I'll bolt the jig back on the engine to open out the holes.
There is no way I'd have managed to drill down the centre of these bolts without the jig.

I already have the M8 x 1.25mm helicoils, but as can be seen I need to spend some time cleaning up the face of the block before it can all be bolted back together.

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Old 09 April 2011, 16:53   #48
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Nice job with the patching, not to mention the work on the engine! What glue did You use?
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Old 09 April 2011, 18:49   #49
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Thanks C-NUMB.

The glue I used is Apollo 2-part, which I purchased from The Rib Shop along with the fabric.

I've not used it before, but it appears to have stuck well etc.
Most of the work is in the preparation, plus making sure the temperature is right and the humidity is low.
I also used a hairdrier to warm the material slightly, and prepared the surface with a couple of treatments of Acetone to make the surface tacky before applying the primer coat of glue.

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Old 10 April 2011, 14:20   #50
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Finishing off sorting out the broken bolts went well today.

Using my jig all three bolts drilled out to 8.3mm OK, the tapping drill size for an M8 Helicoil.

The block is now ready for the head to go back on, but I stopped short of doing it as I think it would be sensible to get some fresh High Tensile bolts.

Nasher.
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