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Old 11 March 2011, 16:26   #21
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I'm going to leave patching the deck and putting the wear patches on for a short while, mainly until the outside temp warms up a little and I can be confident the glue will react properly whilst working in my unheated garage.
And whats wrong with using the lounge then?
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Old 11 March 2011, 16:32   #22
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That's where the bathroom tiles get stored until they're ready to be put up.
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Old 11 March 2011, 16:44   #23
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Hi. Don't want to sound negative but not sure if would use either acetone or MEK on PVC just for cleaning purposes. When gluing rowlocks on the tubes
prepared with acetone, believe or not, when adding air to the tubes a month or so later, a very strong smell of acetone was coming out of the air in the tubes... And there was no hole. So guess something happens with the PVC when wiped with strong solvents. Nice project anyway!
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Old 12 March 2011, 15:19   #24
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I try to avoid using solvents to clean the boat. But it sure does work! I would definitely go with the acetone over MEK. The acetone flashes off faster and you can do a quick rub and it will not get the surface so soft. That is why MEK is better for prepping to glue PVC. The fabric surface stickiness should go away. I do this as little as possible, but always follow up with 303 to protect the surface after it has been stripped.
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Old 12 March 2011, 17:25   #25
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Nasher, before you go mad with the solvent it might be worth having a go with a pressure washer. The rough surface means that dirt gets ingrained and is difficult to scrub off. I can't guarantee that it will work, but I'd give it a try!
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Old 12 March 2011, 20:34   #26
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Thanks for the advise guys.

I spoke to Paul Tilley today for a final bit of confirmation before I attacked the deck with Acetone, and am happy it won't cause any long term harm. I am however wiping it off afterwards with a soaking sponge to make sure.

After my experiments with the Acetone the other night I realised what was actually going on with the deck.
The anti-slip surface applied to it is like a layer of Glue that's almost gone off, and over the years it had become saturated with all sorts of dirt, muck, mould, and god know what else. The Acetone was completely removing the anti-slip layer back to the surface of the PVC underneath, and taking all the muck etc with it.

Thankfully the surface underneath is drying back solid, and not sticky at all.

So I'm going to carry on and remove the anti-slip over the whole deck. I had another short go at it today, and parts of it are coming up like new, whilst other bits have very slight stains in the PVC surface.

Once soaked in Acetone a rag wiped over the deck picks up a sticky dirty mess, and can only be used once, so it's going to take a while and I'll get through lots of rags. I am also going to get through loads of Acetone, so purchased 2.5l from Chris Hornsey Marine today at a very reasonable price.

I'll be having another go at it tomorrow and will post some pics of how it's coming along.

Nasher
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Old 13 March 2011, 14:26   #27
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This was good news Nasher. Now I also might use it for one basic clean of the deck before adding 303 to it. How do You protect Your hands, acetones seams to penetrate everything rather fast?
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Old 13 March 2011, 16:37   #28
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How do You protect Your hands, acetones seams to penetrate everything rather fast?
I'm lucky enough to have skin on my hands like leather due to all the 'stuff' I've got up to over the years, so probably stupidly don't protect them with anything.

After washing them however I find the Acetone has dried them out more than usual, so rub plenty of hand cream in.

Nasher.
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Old 13 March 2011, 16:52   #29
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Cleaning down the deck with Acetone went well today as you can see from the in progress and after images below.
There are still some pink stains, but it’s a 100 times better than it was.

Next is going to come one of the most awkward glued repairs I’ve ever tackled because of it’s position.

The images show where the material around the seam welded joint has cracked and is leaking.
The proximity of the edge of the piece holding the two halves of the deck together isn’t going to help.

However the weather isn’t really warm enough at the moment, so if I want to do it sooner rather than later I’ll need to find a way to heat the garage short term.

Nasher.
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Old 25 March 2011, 19:36   #30
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Picked up some Glue plus Black and Grey PVC from the ever helpful Kieron at Ribshop today, thanks very much

So now have everything prepared to do some gluing over the weekend.

Can anyone comment from experiance on performance with a 9.9HP engine, as I'm struggling to find a 15HP I like at a good price and would like the option of looking at 9.9s.

Nasher.
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Old 25 March 2011, 20:15   #31
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Can anyone comment from experiance on performance with a 9.9HP engine, as I'm struggling to find a 15HP I like at a good price and would like the option of looking at 9.9s.

Nasher.
Find one to borrow, and try it for yourself
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Old 25 March 2011, 22:34   #32
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We have the Tohatsu 9.8 engines on the Jenauu plastic flubbers and they can plane with one person on board (adult) sitting at the back at the Outdoor Centre I work at

The engines were new a year ago but will add the following:
Engines jump out of gear occasionally when in reverse
Sometimes cuts out, needs to be reved at a higher throttle level than normal when starting to get it to run, this isn;t the best way but works
They are though really good for fuel economy.
They also have to be put in gear to lift up out the water, no lever.

They are good engines but I am in no position to offer a ride/run with one as I am only a part time member of staff there. Could always take a video of the engine when next possible.
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Old 26 March 2011, 07:55   #33
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Can anyone comment from experiance on performance with a 9.9HP engine, as I'm struggling to find a 15HP I like at a good price and would like the option of looking at 9.9s.

Nasher.
Can't help with a direct comparison, but I used to have a Suzuki DF9.9 4 stroke on my SIB (30cm shorter and lots of kgs heavier than yours).

With two adults on board it would plane ok but would take quite a few seconds to get going. On a flat calm lake we got dead on 13 knots out of it.

Now with a DF15, it comes onto the plane much quicker, and with two adults averaged 16 knots in a bit of a chop - flat calm I think we would be getting up towards 18 knots.

I think with a lighter boat and lighter crew, you should be ok with a 9.9, though a 15 will be noticeably faster.

Cheers

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Old 26 March 2011, 07:59   #34
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Can anyone comment from experiance on performance with a 9.9HP engine, as I'm struggling to find a 15HP I like at a good price and would like the option of looking at 9.9s.
It will plane with a pair of Nashlets on board, but won't be scary like it would be with a 25. With me plus two kids it will plane, but struggles. With 2 adults and 2 kids it never quite gets over the hump.

If you're going for a 10ish hp motor then the Tohatsu 9.8 is worth hunting down - you may as well get the benefit of the lighter weight. You're welcome to try mine sometime.
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Old 01 April 2011, 19:18   #35
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Gluing the deck is coming along slowly due to work commitments, and the weather suddenly getting damp again, but I’m hopeful of getting some more done over the next couple of days.

Having been and looked at a couple of 15hps, and lifted them up, I decided that a 9.9hp might be a better option for lifting over the side of the RIB onto the transom of the Bombard.

I picked up the Suzuki shown in the images for not a lot of money as it had been overheated and had low compression.
It was a big risk I know, but the gearboxes off them go on ebay for more than I paid for the whole thing.
It’s also a smaller version of the DT200EFI we have on the RIB.

Under the cover it didn’t look good as the head was a nice brown colour plus the Coils and CDI unit are bolted to the head and had melted mounting brackets. The outside has all the usual scratches and corrosion you’d expect from a mid 90’s engine.

I’ve stripped it down a bit now and found the following.

Good bits
The pistons didn’t ‘pick-up’ at when it overheated, and the bores/pistons look to be in good condition.
The Low compression was due to the head gasket letting go between the pots and into the water jacket.
Despite the CDI unit having a slight weep of potting compound coming out of it from the overheating I can get a spark out of both coils.
The lower leg has already been off and the impellor replaced, probably in a bit to get it going again before being given up on. I will obviously replace it anyway.

Bad bits
As mentioned above the coils and CDI unit all have melted brackets.
Three of the heads sheared off the head bolts as I undid them, but they are all sticking out a short way so I am soaking them in WD40 before I weld some nuts to them to get them out.
There are signs of a very small amount of water in the gearbox oil.
Oh, and the cylinder head came off in 3 bits.
New ones are available, but…………….
.
.
.
.
.
.


I’m picking up the engine in the last image tomorrow for not a lot of cash, its got a cracked Block, and apart from that sounds in far better condition than the first engine.
The electrics are all there and the head is supposed to be good.
So, looks like I’m going to build one good engine out of the two broken ones. And will end up with a pile of spares.
It will be a patchwork of the 1988 and 1989-1997 colours. Suzuki appear to have painted this design of engine in the old pre-1988 colour scheme for a year before introducing the new colours.

For Well under £200, including my diesel for running around, I should end up with a runner.

Nasher
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Old 01 April 2011, 21:58   #36
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just as well you enjoy tinkering

enjoy. hope you're getting the boys to help...
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Old 01 April 2011, 22:29   #37
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hope you're getting the boys to help...
Actually Neil, that's all part of the plan, they'll learn a lot whilst we do it.

Nasher.
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Old 04 April 2011, 16:06   #38
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The second DT9.9 I picked up on Saturday was well worth the trip as much of it is in much better condition than the original one I found.

Unfortunately the block on it is scrap. The previous owner had done a good job of trying to drill out a broken head bolt, but took a lump out of the casting in the process.

Myself and the smaller Nashers spent some time over the weekend transferring some parts over, but I then, like the last owner of the second engine, had some issues with the bolts that had broken off in the block.

I’d been soaking them in WD40 for a few days, and had warmed them up a couple of times before cooling them rapidly with a squirt of WD40.
Yesterday I welded a nut to each one and tried to wind them out carefully.

One came out fine, the others sheared off almost flush with the block, so now I’ll be getting serious.
Using the head as a pattern I’m going to make a replica of the head in 10mm thick steel plate, drill out the holes where I’ve got the bolts out to clamp it to the block, but only drill pilot holes where the bolts are broken off. I can then use the plate as a guide to make sure I drill square down the centre of the old bolts, then open out the holes in the guide to drill the broken bolts right out to the size of the tapping drill for an M8 helicoil.
I might even weld some lengths of bar to the plate to make the guide holes as deep as possible.

Obviously the correct way to do it would be to dismantle the block and get it on my pillar drill, but I don’t want to end up doing the same job on the crankcase bolts.

I’ll let you know how I get on.

The good news is that one side of the air deck is now holding air, although I’m going to add some extra seams to the corner patch to add strength.
Images to follow.
Now I’ve proved it works I’ll apply the same process to the other half when I get some time and warm weather coinciding. The boat at least should almost be ready to go.

Nasher.
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Old 04 April 2011, 17:00   #39
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Nasher..

Sounds like an interesting project.

You mention helicoils for thread repair. Take a look at The Timesert system is something that I used to sell many years ago and engine reconditioning companies swore by them. Just a thought.

Cheers
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Old 04 April 2011, 17:28   #40
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The Timesert system
That does look like a better system than Helicoils.

I already have the correct M8 x 1.25mm Helicoils in the garage, which comes with too many years of mucking about with Japanese motorcycles and outboards, but I'm wondering if I could borrow the Timesert gear from somewhere for this repair as it looks a bit expensive.

Nasher.
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