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Old 06 March 2011, 18:09   #11
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John/Willk
The 9.8 Tohatsu is one of the engines on my list, but what sort of performance could I expect with one?
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Originally Posted by John Kennett View Post
that Tohatsu is a corker. Mine will just about get my 340 Aerotec on the plane with 2 adults and 2 kids
Has he upgraded the boat since he posted that dimension I wonder?
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Old 07 March 2011, 01:40   #12
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No, that was a typo. It's a 380
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Old 07 March 2011, 07:08   #13
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Nasher I have the 380 with a 15hp 2ST Yamie & it is great fun with your lad in it on his own it will fly, I can get on the plain with family of 5 & picnic with a bit of jigging around with weight!
I have also packed this up on to my old boat (6.4m) at anchor & would not want to do this with anything bigger! the boat & engine are about 76kg 36kg the engine which I can handle by my self.
I would stick with nothing less than a 15hp 2st as if you do not I think you will be hankering for more power!
Have fun
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Old 07 March 2011, 07:25   #14
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And anther point I have been using mine to tow 3 kids on a very large biscuit as using the old boat was costing a arm & leg! It managed very well to the task with just a 15hp on it!
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Old 07 March 2011, 07:38   #15
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How's your bung string?

Hurray - another aerotec 380 - surely they must, now, be the most owned SIB on sibnet????

What do fellow aerotec users reckon to the "bung strings" - the thinest bits of elasticated string I have ever seen that attach bungs to transom - do these just snap off straight away? They do not inspire much confidence, think the bungs would be safer in my pocket when not in use. Am i missing something?
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Old 07 March 2011, 08:57   #16
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Hurray - another aerotec 380 - surely they must, now, be the most owned SIB on sibnet????

What do fellow aerotec users reckon to the "bung strings" - the thinest bits of elasticated string I have ever seen that attach bungs to transom - do these just snap off straight away? They do not inspire much confidence, think the bungs would be safer in my pocket when not in use. Am i missing something?
No problem with mine, but they are not elasticated!
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Old 07 March 2011, 09:27   #17
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No problem with mine, but they are not elasticated!
Hmmmm, maybe I just dreamed that they are elasticated!

Still very thin and snappable though, I reckon!
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Old 07 March 2011, 11:31   #18
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I have found getting a good bond to be a little more demanding with PVC than hypalon. I've used Poly Marine with good success, Zodiac two part was fine, but I prefer Sta Bond. I don't know if that is available in the UK. A fresh, dated and properly stored can of glue is always better than any particular brand that may be old (recommended shelf life of one year with proper environmental conditions). Here is a link to the proper instructions for two part PVC glues. The relative humidity plays a big role in long term and overall bond strength. Acetone works okay, but you can feel the difference on the PVC surface when you use MEK to pre treat. Acetone flashes off too fast IMO.

http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/INFO/INFOGLUE.html
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Old 07 March 2011, 16:22   #19
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Couldnít resist spending just 1/2hr playing with the boat this evening.

I conveniently didnít manage to source any tiles for the bathroom Iím re-fitting in the house at the moment, which meant I had a little time. Mrs Nasher has pointed out that most of the reason I didnít get the tiles was because the boys and myself spent all day Sunday picking the boat up and cleaning it down, but sheís being very good about it so far.

First the really good news.
Despite the temperature plummeting in my unheated garage this evening and the pin-pricks mentioned initially, all three chambers of the boat donít feel as if theyíve lost any air at all since we first pumped it up yesterday afternoon.
Cleaning the valves out obviously worked, and the pin pricks must have closed up when the pressure in the tubes dropped slightly, but I really canít feel the difference.
Adding the wear patches I mentioned over the top of them will certainly stop them leaking at all.

Next the good news.
I tried a very quick wipe over the deck with Acetone before washing it off again, and the result can be seen in the first image below. With a bit of work it will clean up really well. Or am I tempting danger using Acetone?

Now the bad news.
The badly applied patch to the deck near the bow in the second image is leaking where the top layer goes over the edge of the bottom layer.
The bottom layer has been applied up to the edge of the seam, then another layer has been added overlapping it. I assume it was still leaking.
Iíll peel them both off, clean the area up and apply a patch around the corner, hopefully if done properly this will sort it.

And the rest of the bad news.
In the third image I have marked with a Blue Chinagraph pencil an area along the seam where the material has cracked open. Itís almost directly opposite a patch on the other part of the deck, and Iím wondering if the sailing club used to jam something down in the gap, a temporary flag pole or something, which caused some damage.
Anyway, theyíve left me with a difficult repair along the seam just like the one near the bow that Iíve mentioned above.
This part of the deck goes down quite quickly, and the difference was apparent within 10mins this evening.

Despite having done quite a few repairs to both Hypalon and PVC over the years, some of which were quite involved, Iíd appreciate any tips from the professionals on how to tackle these areas.

So the shopping list so far.

15HP 2-stroke.
New drum of Acetone or other solvent to clean the deck.
2 pieces of Black non-slip wear patch material @8Ē x 36Ē
About a foot square of light grey PVC or genuine Bombard material to cut patches for the deck.
Good quality 2-part PVC Glue.

Nasher.
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Old 11 March 2011, 11:56   #20
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I'm going to leave patching the deck and putting the wear patches on for a short while, mainly until the outside temp warms up a little and I can be confident the glue will react properly whilst working in my unheated garage.

The deck really does need a clean though, and the only thing I can find that cuts through whatever is on there is Acetone. This obviously leaves the surface sticky, and I'm assuming MEK will do the same. Great for gluing preperation but not for the long term.

My bottle of Ribshine won't touch it, and neither will TFR or Cillet Bang.

So, for the PVC deck what's the best bet? Acetone or MEK? and can I get rid of the stickyness afterwards? Or will it go after a short while?

Thanks

Nasher.
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