Inside patch through valve

transitron · 18 May 2019, 16:56

Can someone point me to a guide or youtube of how to perform an internal patch through the valve? I have a leak near the rub strake I would like to patch from the inside. I tried searching but couldn't find anything. Thanks

Tim M · 19 May 2019, 02:07

I've never heard of this method. Not sure how you would prep the internal surface, apply glue on the inside, position the patch, and then apply good pressure to it through a valve hole that might be some distance from the location of the hole. How big is the hole in question? A small discreet external patch is likely to be your best bet.

transitron · 19 May 2019, 05:16

It's small but right on the edge of the rub strake.. so the patch would have to overlap the rub strake. I have all the supplies, but not sure of the proper fix with the difference in height with between the tube and the strake.

Tim M · 19 May 2019, 05:39

The correct fix is to partially remove the rubbing strake (a few inches in each direction around the hole) with a hot air gun, then apply the patch, then reglue the strake over the top.

transitron · 19 May 2019, 05:53

When I reglue the strake over the top is it necessary to remove the old adhesive off and clean etc?

Dry suit diver · 19 May 2019, 08:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by transitron

When I reglue the strake over the top is it necessary to remove the old adhesive off and clean etc?

Yes . New glue doesn’t like old glue . It will work , but not for long .

office888 · 22 May 2019, 13:33

I love doing inside patches through the valve. Customers are always surprised when they can see the abrasion, but it doesn't leak anymore.

Internal patches are best for longevity, because they're not exposed to as much heat or UV, and they're not under constant pressure being "blown off". Also, no mechanical wear risk or peeling.

In short, the process is to deflate the chamber, undo the external part of the valve, tie some string to the internal nut, then allow the nut to drop inside out of your location. I usually stick a broomhandle or something wood inside then, so I can use it to manuever around the material until I get close to the leak location. Then it's simply a matter of performing a patch working through that 2" diameter hole. You'll have to "taco" your patch to fit it in.

No masking tape required is the best part.

sand010 · 13 September 2020, 16:42

Office888 can you access any part of chamber from inside the valve?

I understand the taco concept in regards to a large tear or hole but i cant for the life of me figure out how i would unroll, remove the plastic non stick wrapper and then position it using a wooden stick

office888 · 13 September 2020, 16:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by sand010

Office888 can you access any part of chamber from inside the valve?

I understand the taco concept in regards to a large tear or hole but i cant for the life of me figure out how i would unroll, remove the plastic non stick wrapper and then position it using a wooden stick

The objective is to position the valve hole directly over the location of the leak. Broom handle is to act as a lever to pry the valve hole around because the material tends to be heavy and uncooperative.

sand010 · 13 September 2020, 16:52

Office 888 thanks i will consider this method and you still use 2 part pvc glue (for a pvc boat) and for cleaning mek or acetone?

office888 · 13 September 2020, 16:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by sand010

Office 888 thanks i will consider this method and you still use 2 part pvc glue (for a pvc boat) and for cleaning mek or acetone?

Yes, all other methods are the same.

Acetone and MEK are both ketones, but the evaporation rate of acetone is too fast. Use MEK. Wipe multiple times, allowing solvent to flash off between wiping. Last solvent wipe should be 10-15 min before gluing. Solvent wipe will remove grease, dirt, loose plasticizer, and it will chemically prepare the surfaces to receive adhesive.