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Old 03 September 2012, 06:52   #1
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Honwave T40 alu floor plate broken

Hi all!

Back from my holidays, my boat has been wonderful: I used it almost every day, maybe more than 40 trips. The smaller a boat, the more often you use it... I do not want to talk about RIB upgrading yet.

I keep it moored for a month so no mount/dismount operations - but when I recovered it and cleaned I noticed that a floor plate looks bad.

The third plate is cracked, just beside the long&short stringers join. Of course, the stringers were alternate mounted (otherwise the whole floor plate would be broken in half).

I do not think I can easily repair aluminum plates ... first thing I thought is interchange the 2nd one (the one with the stripe for the petrol can) with the 3rd, so next time the cracked plate would not be beside the stringers join.

But I'd rather get a new plate from Honwave. Does anyone know where can I get one?

Also, I believe it would be cool to get 1 piece stringers, rather than long+short ones. Any suggestions?

P.S.: I love this site as much as my boat: it has improved my learning curve a lot!
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Old 03 September 2012, 11:13   #2
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Might be worth putting some pictures up to help with repair suggestions.
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Old 03 September 2012, 12:13   #3
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Thanks for your fast reply!

I won't be able to get photos in some months: my boat is at Almeria coast and I live in Madrid: won't be back there in 2 months. Anyways I will try to explain.

There are pics in here (please notice pcs are not Honwave model) to explain the structure of an aluminum floor plate:

http://scubamarineproducts.com.au/sh...or_001_lge.jpg
http://aquanoxmarine.com/ESW/Images/alu_floor.jpg

Alu floor plates are made up by putting together several individual alu stripes. The stripes are hold together by lateral bars, one on each board. These bars are then inserted into the stringers. Stringers are long+short on each side, alternated; otherwise, the floor plates beside the joins can easily bend because of bending.

The bars are cracked beside the stringer joins because of boat flexing. Maybe not enough pressure in the sponsons or keel (I got a small puncture last week on my backboard sponson and had to inflate again each 2-3 days), maybe too many friends on board, or maybe I love choppy seas rough skipping and jumping waves...

I do not think that is an easy repair. Aluminum is not a friendly repair material, and cracks can reproduce again very fast. I would have to get new bars and try to substitute them... or change the whole plate.
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Old 03 September 2012, 13:23   #4
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Which part is broken ? Check and post...

Happy Sibbing
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Old 03 September 2012, 15:47   #5
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Wow great, nice glossary!

Side joiner is what I call "stringer".

The cracked part is the Z-rail (I was calling it "bar"). Both Z-rails have cracks, each one in a different position, each crack in the side joiner short+long joint.

Stripes are the alu part that makes the floor. They are loose now.

Numbering bow wooden plate as 1 and transom plate as 4 (honwave T40 floor is only 4 pieces) , I pretend to interchange numbers 2 and 3.

But I believe that the best solution is new full plate + full stringers (rather than short+long).

In the worst case, I have thought of building a marine plywood plate.

P.S.: I love the boat. It is used only one month a year, but very very intensive use: from 2 people jumping waves up to 9 people visiting coves! I keep it folded down the bed. Beach mooring is free. No expenses, cheap petrol... I bet mine is one of the most used, and I have many friends. Maybe it need repairs and a lot of work when monting/unmounting, but bigger boats are more likely to stay unused, I see it each summer.
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Old 03 September 2012, 17:57   #6
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What about putting some substantial bolts through the "Z" rail and floor.

That's what I done when some of my rivets worked loose.

Just a thought.
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Old 03 September 2012, 22:21   #7
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The issue with cracks is that larger sibs uses 4 pieces side joiners, 2 short, 2 long, they must be assembled crossed, if placing same length side joiner one in front of the other, you will experiment "hinge effect" on rail, will end breaking it. Pic-1

You must always inflate your sib to max 3.5 psi with gauge once floating and after some minutes rest for pressure to set, top if needed. Check with Honda if possible to buy spare Z rails, if so replace them, at a wooden carpentry make 2 large side joiners. Measure distance between 15-15 and make a large side joiner that matches that lenght.

Nobody sells alum long side joiners, this is one of our most craziest modifications and doing it for some time. With correct inflation and one piece long joiners sib will perform as never before, to get the idea : Pic 2-4

Happy Sibbing
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Old 06 September 2012, 07:30   #8
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I do not think a wooden stringer can be as hard as an allloy one.

I've noticed Defender sells long stringers for their 570 inflatables.
Defender Inflatable Boat Aluminum Stringer
Assuming the long one is 210cm long, I wonder if I can use these in my Honwave.
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Old 06 September 2012, 11:19   #9
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Seems are not a single piece 2.10 mt long side joiner, description reads 3 pieces for a very large sib. if you make exact replicas as alum ones in a hard wood, will work perfectly. It's near mission impossible to find/buy one set of single large side joiners, as must be ordered to the alum factory that produces them. The Honwave needs about 1.80 mt long joiners to be inside 15-15 marks.

Happy Sibbing
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Old 08 September 2012, 11:45   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azzurro View Post
I do not think a wooden stringer can be as hard as an allloy one.
Doesn't need to be. It just has to keep the floor sections from buckling at the joints.

jky
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