Honwave T40 alu floor plate broken

azzurro · 03 September 2012, 10:52

Hi all!

Back from my holidays, my boat has been wonderful: I used it almost every day, maybe more than 40 trips. The smaller a boat, the more often you use it... I do not want to talk about RIB upgrading yet.

I keep it moored for a month so no mount/dismount operations - but when I recovered it and cleaned I noticed that a floor plate looks bad.

The third plate is cracked, just beside the long&short stringers join. Of course, the stringers were alternate mounted (otherwise the whole floor plate would be broken in half).

I do not think I can easily repair aluminum plates ... first thing I thought is interchange the 2nd one (the one with the stripe for the petrol can) with the 3rd, so next time the cracked plate would not be beside the stringers join.

But I'd rather get a new plate from Honwave. Does anyone know where can I get one?

Also, I believe it would be cool to get 1 piece stringers, rather than long+short ones. Any suggestions?

P.S.: I love this site as much as my boat: it has improved my learning curve a lot!

lockieboi · 03 September 2012, 15:13

Might be worth putting some pictures up to help with repair suggestions.

azzurro · 03 September 2012, 16:13

Thanks for your fast reply!

I won't be able to get photos in some months: my boat is at Almeria coast and I live in Madrid: won't be back there in 2 months. Anyways I will try to explain.

There are pics in here (please notice pcs are not Honwave model) to explain the structure of an aluminum floor plate:

http://scubamarineproducts.com.au/sh...or_001_lge.jpg
http://aquanoxmarine.com/ESW/Images/alu_floor.jpg

Alu floor plates are made up by putting together several individual alu stripes. The stripes are hold together by lateral bars, one on each board. These bars are then inserted into the stringers. Stringers are long+short on each side, alternated; otherwise, the floor plates beside the joins can easily bend because of bending.

The bars are cracked beside the stringer joins because of boat flexing. Maybe not enough pressure in the sponsons or keel (I got a small puncture last week on my backboard sponson and had to inflate again each 2-3 days), maybe too many friends on board, or maybe I love choppy seas rough skipping and jumping waves...

I do not think that is an easy repair. Aluminum is not a friendly repair material, and cracks can reproduce again very fast. I would have to get new bars and try to substitute them... or change the whole plate.

Locozodiac · 03 September 2012, 17:23

Which part is broken ? Check and post...

Happy Sibbing

azzurro · 03 September 2012, 19:47

Wow great, nice glossary!

Side joiner is what I call "stringer".

The cracked part is the Z-rail (I was calling it "bar"). Both Z-rails have cracks, each one in a different position, each crack in the side joiner short+long joint.

Stripes are the alu part that makes the floor. They are loose now.

Numbering bow wooden plate as 1 and transom plate as 4 (honwave T40 floor is only 4 pieces) , I pretend to interchange numbers 2 and 3.

But I believe that the best solution is new full plate + full stringers (rather than short+long).

In the worst case, I have thought of building a marine plywood plate.

P.S.: I love the boat. It is used only one month a year, but very very intensive use: from 2 people jumping waves up to 9 people visiting coves! I keep it folded down the bed. Beach mooring is free. No expenses, cheap petrol... I bet mine is one of the most used, and I have many friends. Maybe it need repairs and a lot of work when monting/unmounting, but bigger boats are more likely to stay unused, I see it each summer.

lockieboi · 03 September 2012, 21:57

What about putting some substantial bolts through the "Z" rail and floor.

That's what I done when some of my rivets worked loose.

Just a thought.

Locozodiac · 04 September 2012, 02:21

The issue with cracks is that larger sibs uses 4 pieces side joiners, 2 short, 2 long, they must be assembled crossed, if placing same length side joiner one in front of the other, you will experiment "hinge effect" on rail, will end breaking it. Pic-1

You must always inflate your sib to max 3.5 psi with gauge once floating and after some minutes rest for pressure to set, top if needed. Check with Honda if possible to buy spare Z rails, if so replace them, at a wooden carpentry make 2 large side joiners. Measure distance between 15-15 and make a large side joiner that matches that lenght.

Nobody sells alum long side joiners, this is one of our most craziest modifications and doing it for some time. With correct inflation and one piece long joiners sib will perform as never before, to get the idea : Pic 2-4

Happy Sibbing

azzurro · 06 September 2012, 11:30

I do not think a wooden stringer can be as hard as an allloy one.

I've noticed Defender sells long stringers for their 570 inflatables.
Defender Inflatable Boat Aluminum Stringer
Assuming the long one is 210cm long, I wonder if I can use these in my Honwave.

Locozodiac · 06 September 2012, 15:19

Seems are not a single piece 2.10 mt long side joiner, description reads 3 pieces for a very large sib. if you make exact replicas as alum ones in a hard wood, will work perfectly. It's near mission impossible to find/buy one set of single large side joiners, as must be ordered to the alum factory that produces them. The Honwave needs about 1.80 mt long joiners to be inside 15-15 marks.

Happy Sibbing

jyasaki · 08 September 2012, 15:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by azzurro

I do not think a wooden stringer can be as hard as an allloy one.

Doesn't need to be. It just has to keep the floor sections from buckling at the joints.

jky

azzurro · 24 September 2012, 16:36

I'm considering to have stringers made with "american boj" wood. Hard ... and affordable cost.

Locozodiac, which wood did you use for integral stringers?

I am also thinking about replacing one or all of the alu plates with marine plywood (in Spain it is called "contrachapado fenolico").

But I have also read about more modern nautic materials such as "marine tigerwood" or "boatboard" or "starboard" which is basically HDPE (high density polyethilene) with non-slippery surface - but I can´t find a Spanish provider (I'm not a tech plastics expert).

Has someone done something similar?

Locozodiac · 24 September 2012, 16:49

Hola Azzurro,

My side alum long stringers are factory cut, sorry no wood. Doesn't have to be a real hard and tough wood, with one piece long joiners will have a more stable and ridgid floor forgetting all about hinge effect specially when riding on choppy seas. A good carpinteria de madera, could make them including small slats, just take sample to them to make same. Good luck, keep posted if possible to make.

Happy Sibbing

azzurro · 11 March 2013, 17:52

Hi all!

Finally I got MIG welded my alu floor. Not a cheap solution! but best fit one. If you had another cheaper fix, you should try it first.

For the common of mortals: MIG welding is an aluminum welding process which involves flooding with high pressure inert gas around the heated surface to avoid contact with atmosphere oxygen (which would spoil the aluminum).

Soon I'll post "before" and "after" pictures.

azzurro · 11 March 2013, 19:39

Pics as announced:
See the full crack on both Z-rails, at the join between long and short alternated stringers.
Horrid crack and horrid camera.

azzurro · 11 March 2013, 19:42

After MIG welding:
May look horrible but shooting a bright surface with my phone camera is rather complicated.

Locozodiac · 11 March 2013, 22:05

Azzurro,

Probably you are using you sib underinflated, try to get a pressure gauge if you haven't got one already. Tubes must be inflated to at least 3.0 PSI once floating, let some minutes for pressure to stabilize and top back if needed.

Don't throttle too much on choppy seas as this stresses the joiners and Z rails specially if not counting with one piece long ones. At least the repair will work for you. Are those 64 cm long Z rails ?

Happy Boating

azzurro · 12 March 2013, 21:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Locozodiac

Azzurro,

Probably you are using you sib underinflated, try to get a pressure gauge if you haven't got one already. Tubes must be inflated to at least 3.0 PSI once floating, let some minutes for pressure to stabilize and top back if needed.

Don't throttle too much on choppy seas as this stresses the joiners and Z rails specially if not counting with one piece long ones. At least the repair will work for you. Are those 64 cm long Z rails ?

Happy Boating

"Probably you are using you sib underinflated"
Sure!
"Don't throttle too much on choppy seas"
Buuuu!

Locozodiac · 14 March 2013, 14:25

Forgot to mention that if using sib constantly underinflated at wot, on choppy seas, besides breaking Z rails, in the short run will experiment transom issues, that is, becoming unglued from tubes and that's a costly repair...

Happy Boating

dave3235 · 21 May 2014, 15:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by lockieboi

What about putting some substantial bolts through the "Z" rail and floor.

That's what I done when some of my rivets worked loose.

Just a thought.

RE:HONWAVE FLOOR 2012

I know this is an old thread, But I have noticed in an old thread you posted in you changed the Rivets for Nuts And Bolts with Dome Round head nuts was this relatively easy and what size nuts and bolts were used as am having similar

Maclures · 21 May 2014, 16:49

This stuff Dura Fix Aluminum Welding Aluminum Brazing Aluminum Soldering & Repair Rod is not sold on Ebay US or Amazon works brilliant and is easy to use, and strong