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Old 24 September 2012, 12:36   #11
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I'm considering to have stringers made with "american boj" wood. Hard ... and affordable cost.

Locozodiac, which wood did you use for integral stringers?

I am also thinking about replacing one or all of the alu plates with marine plywood (in Spain it is called "contrachapado fenolico").

But I have also read about more modern nautic materials such as "marine tigerwood" or "boatboard" or "starboard" which is basically HDPE (high density polyethilene) with non-slippery surface - but I canīt find a Spanish provider (I'm not a tech plastics expert).

Has someone done something similar?
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Old 24 September 2012, 12:49   #12
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Hola Azzurro,

My side alum long stringers are factory cut, sorry no wood. Doesn't have to be a real hard and tough wood, with one piece long joiners will have a more stable and ridgid floor forgetting all about hinge effect specially when riding on choppy seas. A good carpinteria de madera, could make them including small slats, just take sample to them to make same. Good luck, keep posted if possible to make.

Happy Sibbing
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Old 11 March 2013, 13:52   #13
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Hi all!

Finally I got MIG welded my alu floor. Not a cheap solution! but best fit one. If you had another cheaper fix, you should try it first.

For the common of mortals: MIG welding is an aluminum welding process which involves flooding with high pressure inert gas around the heated surface to avoid contact with atmosphere oxygen (which would spoil the aluminum).

Soon I'll post "before" and "after" pictures.
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Old 11 March 2013, 15:39   #14
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Pics as announced:
See the full crack on both Z-rails, at the join between long and short alternated stringers.
Horrid crack and horrid camera.
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Old 11 March 2013, 15:42   #15
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After MIG welding:
May look horrible but shooting a bright surface with my phone camera is rather complicated.
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Old 11 March 2013, 18:05   #16
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Azzurro,

Probably you are using you sib underinflated, try to get a pressure gauge if you haven't got one already. Tubes must be inflated to at least 3.0 PSI once floating, let some minutes for pressure to stabilize and top back if needed.

Don't throttle too much on choppy seas as this stresses the joiners and Z rails specially if not counting with one piece long ones. At least the repair will work for you. Are those 64 cm long Z rails ?

Happy Boating
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Old 12 March 2013, 17:48   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Locozodiac View Post
Azzurro,

Probably you are using you sib underinflated, try to get a pressure gauge if you haven't got one already. Tubes must be inflated to at least 3.0 PSI once floating, let some minutes for pressure to stabilize and top back if needed.

Don't throttle too much on choppy seas as this stresses the joiners and Z rails specially if not counting with one piece long ones. At least the repair will work for you. Are those 64 cm long Z rails ?

Happy Boating
"Probably you are using you sib underinflated"
Sure!
"Don't throttle too much on choppy seas"
Buuuu!
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Old 14 March 2013, 10:25   #18
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Forgot to mention that if using sib constantly underinflated at wot, on choppy seas, besides breaking Z rails, in the short run will experiment transom issues, that is, becoming unglued from tubes and that's a costly repair...

Happy Boating
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Old 21 May 2014, 11:54   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lockieboi View Post
What about putting some substantial bolts through the "Z" rail and floor.

That's what I done when some of my rivets worked loose.

Just a thought.
RE:HONWAVE FLOOR 2012

I know this is an old thread, But I have noticed in an old thread you posted in you changed the Rivets for Nuts And Bolts with Dome Round head nuts was this relatively easy and what size nuts and bolts were used as am having similar
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Old 21 May 2014, 12:49   #20
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This stuff Dura Fix Aluminum Welding Aluminum Brazing Aluminum Soldering & Repair Rod is not sold on Ebay US or Amazon works brilliant and is easy to use, and strong
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