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Old 11 June 2016, 20:22   #1
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Honwave high pressure floor repair advice?

Hi, I've has a 3.8m Honwave for a couple of years - its the air floor model.
Generally its very good but I've got a niggle - a very small air leak from the corner of the part of the floor that extends beyond the transom, like a trim tab?

Because its on a corner its been virtually impossible to fix - I cant get a single piece of PVC patch to cover it and no matter how I cut sections and overlap them to make a seal, the air finds its way out. If i try to fix it with any pressure in the floor it finds a way past the patch.

Its annoying as one half of the floor loses its pressure a bit, enough to spoil the underwater shape of the floor and subsequent issues with motor cavitation etc etc.
What I feel like I need is a flexible patch like a push bike patch to go over the corner first and then re- enforce it with the PVC material.

Has anyone got any ideas? Being filled with the filaments in the floor section means that even using a liquid seal from inside is difficult to do and get the liquid to the right place.

The picture isn't of my 3.8m but shows the position of the leak.

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Old 12 June 2016, 03:31   #2
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An image of your actual leak area would help... but what glue, repair material and prep method have you used?
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Old 12 June 2016, 05:03   #3
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Introducing The Smaller Nashers 380 Aerotec
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Old 12 June 2016, 05:12   #4
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I've no idea if this may work and obviously you would want to trial on a scrap piece of material but would a 'plastic' welding with soldering iron technique work? You would have to be really careful to avoid making it worse but I've used this on various things from Pelicases to HiFi fascias.

'How-to's" on YT etc but you feed in a donor material and use the soldering iron to 'weld' together. Yellow plastic rawlpugs worked great on my Pelicase. As I say pretty easy to **** it up on a thin PVC boat but seeing as they weld PVC boats in many places I thought I'd chuck the idea in there.
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Old 12 June 2016, 05:16   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
An image of your actual leak area would help... but what glue, repair material and prep method have you used?
Thanks for the reply - the sib is kept rolled up so it isn't too easy to get a photo - the image I posted gives the general idea where the red ring is, but essentially its where the three surfaces of the 'trim tab' meet, bottom surface, side and back. The side and back curve around the corner rather than coming to a 90 degree corner. Part of the problem is the fact it changes shape when its inflated, but the air pushes past the glue and patch if i get the shape right by inflating the floor..
I agree a photo would be ideal.

I prepped the area with MEK and some abrasion before patching, then used two part adhesive and PVC fabric patches. I think it was Ribstore products I used.On other areas I've done in the past this has worked a charm, on a flat surface it wouldn't be an issue.
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Old 12 June 2016, 05:40   #6
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Originally Posted by Max... View Post
I've no idea if this may work and obviously you would want to trial on a scrap piece of material but would a 'plastic' welding with soldering iron technique work? You would have to be really careful to avoid making it worse but I've used this on various things from Pelicases to HiFi fascias.

'How-to's" on YT etc but you feed in a donor material and use the soldering iron to 'weld' together. Yellow plastic rawlpugs worked great on my Pelicase. As I say pretty easy to **** it up on a thin PVC boat but seeing as they weld PVC boats in many places I thought I'd chuck the idea in there.
Thanks Max, I've done that on rotomoulded HDPE hulls without making too much of a mess - sounds like a high risk technique on PVC fabric but it may well come to that !
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Old 12 June 2016, 05:55   #7
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Oh.... sounds like you've had a good attempt at it.

Have you looked at post #46 on the link Willk gave earlier...

Introducing The Smaller Nashers 380 Aerotec

Is yours a worse area than that to tackle?

BTW you don't need to sand PVC (shouldn't?)
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Old 12 June 2016, 06:18   #8
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Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
Oh.... sounds like you've had a good attempt at it.

Have you looked at post #46 on the link Willk gave earlier...

Introducing The Smaller Nashers 380 Aerotec

Is yours a worse area than that to tackle?

BTW you don't need to sand PVC (shouldn't?)
Thanks, I didn't spot the link in Nashers post. I've had a look at it now and yes it's very similar - the curves on mine are a bit tighter and its all part of the boat - would be nice to take the floor out to work on! I would like to see where I can get some thinner material from to patch it initially - i was thinking cycle puncture repair but thinner PVC would be OK. Previous repair was a lot of overlapping 'orange segment' shaped pieces around the curve but the material doesn't want to fold to tight curves so the air gets out between the joins.
Its only a tiny bubble or two per second but after a day the pressure has dropped and needs pumping up again on that floor half.
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Old 12 June 2016, 06:19   #9
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Thanks - sorry i didn't spot that as a link at first! very helpful.
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Old 12 June 2016, 06:44   #10
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You're welcome.

If it was mine, I would VERY CAREFULLY prepare the area with MEK. MEK is the death knell for PVC glued joints so don't make contact with them. I'd then syringe inject a tiny bit of urethane sealant (aquaseal or similar) into the hole/s and over them slightly too (forming a dumbbell shaped spot of sealant inside and outside the hole). Once that was set I'd inflate to a very low pressure and carry out the Nasher Repair with a very fine PVC fabric, overlapping the next time with more. Correct prep/glue/conditions/technique are all important in SIB repair. The UK resellers have good advice on their websites.
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