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Old 19 September 2013, 11:34   #11
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As for the knot, I used to use what's called an Alpine Butterfly to get a loop in the middle of the rode to tie it off. Quick to tie (once you get it down) and easy to untie when wet and having been under load.

This is the knot, in a sort of confusing method:
Alpine Butterfly Loop | How to tie the Alpine Butterfly Loop | Climbing Knots

A simpler way to tie it:
Rock Climbing Knot: Alpine Butterfly

jky
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Old 20 September 2013, 09:32   #12
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Great - I'll test this out and post a pic up when I've done it.
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