Honwave aluminuim sandwich

[dave3235]

Hi all.

Could anyone tell me if the floor on a Honwave is sandwitched between wood or not.

[TRevor Lawson]

The alloy floor on my T 40 was just a honey combe layer of alloy no wood involved

[dave3235]

Originally Posted by TRevor Lawson

The alloy floor on my T 40 was just a honey combe layer of alloy no wood involved

Much appreciated peace of info as I need a bit of welding done thanks.

[azzurro]

No wood inside alu plates.

Need welding? Related post:
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/honwave...ken-50513.html

By the way, last summer I got the same problem again (in different places, as I placed the stringers in the alternate position). Once again, MIG welding.
I'm considering to interchange plates 2 and 3 as they seem to be identical (except for the petrol tank tie down straps, which I do not use as I keep mine tied down to the bow wooden plate).

[dave3235]

Originally Posted by azzurro

No wood inside alu plates.

Need welding? Related post:
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/honwave...ken-50513.html

By the way, last summer I got the same problem again (in different places, as I placed the stringers in the alternate position). Once again, MIG welding.
I'm considering to interchange plates 2 and 3 as they seem to be identical (except for the petrol tank tie down straps, which I do not use as I keep mine tied down to the bow wooden plate).

My floor is the has cracked right where it's been riveted on the underside im thinking this may be a design fault, or under inflation at some piont as my boat is second hand and having had the crack in when bought so a little unsure.I will be geting it TIG welded but was thinking of getting them to weld a strp of aluminium down both sides may be 6 to 8 inchs, also see see if it would be possible to weld the two stringers together and just eliminate that join.As for changing the floor around that sounds a good idea as the rivets would be not be the weak point.What sort of money did you pay for weiding? Also have you had problems since welding it,Many thanks for all input.

[azzurro]

MIG welding is not cheap. I paid 50 or 60 euros, I do not remember, maybe more.

Welding a strip of aluminum may not be cheap neither useful.
Aluminum is very soft, it only get hard when profiled (such as paper is soft but cardboard is hard).
Welding stringers together is not trivial, you may not get the proper shape so it may not fit...and even though, you get the same problem: welding profiled stringers can easiliy break. But I would bet stringers are iron, not aluminum.

[dave3235]

Originally Posted by azzurro

MIG welding is not cheap. I paid 50 or 60 euros, I do not remember, maybe more.

Welding a strip of aluminum may not be cheap neither useful.
Aluminum is very soft, it only get hard when profiled (such as paper is soft but cardboard is hard).
Welding stringers together is not trivial, you may not get the proper shape so it may not fit...and even though, you get the same problem: welding profiled stringers can easiliy break. But I would bet stringers are iron, not aluminum.

It is aluminium so it is T I G welded and was told no more than £50 which is a lot cheaper than £120 for new panel.The stringer is aluminium, so will have to waite and what the engineer says when seen.

[azzurro]

Dave, where can you purchase a brand new panel? Not for you but for me.

This is the second time I have to get that panel welded (in different places). And my boat has been used just 4 summertimes. I even got punctured the float with the broken edges (easy self repaired).

I even thought of making myself a marine plywood panel, or get full long side joiners to avoid the joint in the cracking point.

[dave3235]

Originally Posted by azzurro

Dave, where can you purchase a brand new panel? Not for you but for me.

This is the second time I have to get that panel welded (in different places). And my boat has been used just 4 summertimes. I even got punctured the float with the broken edges (easy self repaired).

I even thought of making myself a marine plywood panel, or get full long side joiners to avoid the joint in the cracking point.

Here is the number Portishead near Bristol 01275815910 now you have said it's happened a couple of times I may just get a NEW panel, also get a 2 metre double thickness peace of oak or similar hard wood and get my chippy friend to make me 2 single stringers no joins to flex then other than that like the boat.Also may be take the rivets out,and put nut and bolt with round dome head nuts as these work loose.May be this us where the problem lie, THE RIVETS LOOSENING.

I AWAITE MORE REPLIES AS KNOWLEDGE IS KEY !!!!!!

[captnjack]

Its actually fairly difficult to weld USED aluminum. The salt gets into the metal ever so slightly and contaminates the welds. To be done right it needs to be welded and then ground away several times and rewelded. The heating of the surrounding metal during the initial welds drives off the contaminants so that eventually you can get a solid weld. If you aren't going to someone experienced in welding aluminum which has been in salt water/marine use you won't get solid welds.

[dave3235]

Originally Posted by captnjack

Its actually fairly difficult to weld USED aluminum. The salt gets into the metal ever so slightly and contaminates the welds. To be done right it needs to be welded and then ground away several times and rewelded. The heating of the surrounding metal during the initial welds drives off the contaminants so that eventually you can get a solid weld. If you aren't going to someone experienced in welding aluminum which has been in salt water/marine use you won't get solid welds.

I have been looking at an older which I re-opened.someone was saying they changed rivets for bolts and dome head nuts as rivets become loose after a while.Also changing the 4 stringers for hard wood one's profiled to smilar shape but would it be stiff enough, Also is the breakage of floor pannel more due to under inflation, thanks for the tip on welding ally will pass it on to the coach builder who will be doing the welding

[dave3235]

Originally Posted by captnjack

Its actually fairly difficult to weld USED aluminum. The salt gets into the metal ever so slightly and contaminates the welds. To be done right it needs to be welded and then ground away several times and rewelded. The heating of the surrounding metal during the initial welds drives off the contaminants so that eventually you can get a solid weld. If you aren't going to someone experienced in welding aluminum which has been in salt water/marine use you won't get solid welds.

Thanks for the info as I will be taking to a coach builder I will pass on your info.Also what are your thoughts on replacing the 4 stringers for 2 oak or similar hard wood stringers as I know a good chippy.

I have been told that the rivets in floor pannels work loose may be change these for nuts and bolt with dome heads.

[Maclures]

Have you seen this stuff Dura Fix Aluminum Welding Aluminum Brazing Aluminum Soldering & Repair Rod is not sold on Ebay US or Amazon works very well , but ive never used it on Ali that's being in fresh water/salt water, but worth a try.

[Locozodiac]

Originally Posted by dave3235

Also maybe take the rivets out, and put nut and bolt with round dome head nuts as these work loose. Maybe this us where the problem lie, THE RIVETS LOOSENING. I AWAITE MORE REPLIES AS KNOWLEDGE IS KEY !!!!!!

Dave, we have installed thicker rivets than factory delivered when changing new Z rails from previous broken ones assuming would achieve more rail rigidity. Has not helped a bit due that you can't avoid the hinge, flexing effect on Z rails while jumping, riding extreme choppy seas, much worst with underinflated tubes.

Check if a wooden carpentry could build you one long wooden piece side joiners and forget all about Z rail flexing, will work much better than if counting with 2 per side.

Happy Boating

[dave3235]

[QUOTE=Locozodiac;620362]Dave, we have installed thicker rivets than factory delivered when changing new Z rails from previous broken ones assuming would achieve more rail rigidity. Has not helped a bit due that you can't avoid the hinge, flexing effect on Z rails while jumping, riding extreme choppy seas, much worst with underinflated tubes.

Check if a wooden carpentry could build you one long wooden piece side joiners and forget all about Z rail flexing, will work much better than if counting with 2 per side.

Happy Boating[/QUOTE

Thanks for the info.I think I shall buy another pannel and get 2,1 peace stingers made from oak should do the job

Thanks for the info.I think what I will do is buy a knew pannels and get

Thanks for the info.I think what I will do is

]

[dave3235]

[QUOTE=dave3235;620375]

Originally Posted by Locozodiac

Dave, we have installed thicker rivets than factory delivered when changing new Z rails from previous broken ones assuming would achieve more rail rigidity. Has not helped a bit due that you can't avoid the hinge, flexing effect on Z rails while jumping, riding extreme choppy seas, much worst with underinflated tubes.

Check if a wooden carpentry could build you one long wooden piece side joiners and forget all about Z rail flexing, will work much better than if counting with 2 per side.

Happy Boating[/QUOTE

Thanks for the info.I think I shall buy another pannel and get 2,1 peace stingers made from oak should do the job

Thanks for the info.I think what I will do is buy a knew pannels and get

Thanks for the info.I think what I will do is

]

Bloody phone network is playing up pressed the button to many times on the last post

[dave3235]

Thanks Guys for all TIPS and INFO

Was hoping to go out the weekend to the south west but looks a bit of a

[simsy]

TIG and MIG will weld Ali..

[dave3235]

Thanks I thought TIG was for ally, I take it the wire used is different anything else.

[azzurro]

So, does Honwave sell brand new replacement pannels in UK?
I'd appreciate an Internet address or email to contact whoever does, rather than a phone number. My spoken English is less than perfect (not to mention my ear...).