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Old 25 July 2016, 23:14   #11
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Do you have more info on the materials used and how they are mounted? How did the splint work out?
Thanks
Sorry just a pix I found in my files. No idea of the source, my son's boat is a Avon CRRC that has 22' tubes, plus speed tubes with a 3/4''marine ply epoxy/bed liner deck.

I can tell you one thing, if a Al hard deck could have been sourced for the boat, many hours of hard labor and materials would have been saved. But I like to get me hands dirty.

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Old 26 July 2016, 12:37   #12
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Do you have more info on the materials used and how they are mounted? How did the splint work out?
Thanks
1/4'' wall 7075 Aluminum would be my choice if I was to experiment. It is very springy. The properties of 7075 aluminum are high strength, stress resistant, and improved stress-corrosion resistance.

What seas or waters will your boat be used on? Coastal or off shore?

Cheers, Don
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Old 29 July 2016, 00:21   #13
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I will be using it mainly as a coastal boat with the occasional run from Oxnard to Anacapa. I do have aluminum stringers and joiners from my old achilles floor and it appears that using those with a solid piece of marine plywood would be pretty simple. I may try and do that rather than drilling a bunch of holes into the roll up. I got it together with a euro helm for now and did a lake test run which really accelerated my desire for a rigid floor.
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Old 29 July 2016, 00:23   #14
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Here is the setup for now. Definitely don't want to be going 10 plus miles offshore with that floppy floor.
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Old 29 July 2016, 08:13   #15
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Here is the setup for now. Definitely don't want to be going 10 plus miles offshore with that floppy floor.
Navy SEALS do it all the time...

Use a pressure gauge and check your overpressure valves...I found that mine released air at about 3 psi. The boat performed a lot better at 3.48 psi vs 3 psi...performance took a total crap at 2.5 psi. I'd lose about 20% of the top speed and the operator fatigue was high (flexing made it so you can feel every little wave).
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Old 29 July 2016, 08:57   #16
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Office888 brings up the most important part of getting the most out of an FC470 and ensuring it lasts the longest. I started out with CRRCs and have had quite a few...Running a customized H733 now. The biggest issue with the 470 or any other full inflatable is that people do not maintain the correct operating pressure in the tubes(keel tube included).... Get a quality gauge that can be screwed onto one of the valves and left in place. Your boat should be run at 240 millibars or 3.5 psi.... When you run it below that pressure it does not have the rigidity that it needs and the flexing allows seams to be stressed more and can shorten the life of the boat... The solid floor and stringers allow it to flex a bit less when run under pressured( USMC even has a set of longer stringers for its solid floors)....but it is bad for the boat and kills performance. Take the time to monitor pressure and top it up when it drops...Good Luck with it.... Safe Boating
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Old 29 July 2016, 09:23   #17
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Golden words day.

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Old 29 July 2016, 13:18   #18
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Thanks for the replies! I will take your advice and get a pressure gauge rather than the by feel method which is what I have been doing.
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Old 30 July 2016, 00:19   #19
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Some more pics of the current setup
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Old 30 July 2016, 11:20   #20
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What model Yeti in the first image mate?

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