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Old 28 April 2011, 10:24   #11
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Country: Canada
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Boat name: Ouisey
Make: Zodiac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_C View Post

To the OP, it might be worth it to push and pull at all the seams on the boat, and see if any others are lose. If so just plan on a lot of man hours using a heat gun, lots of rags, over a gallon of Acetone, a fair amount of MEK, numerous disposable brushes, rolls of masking tape, a couple quarts of glue, and lots of muscle power. Been there done that. It was worth it to save my hull though.

Either way any part that failed needs to be taken apart completely. You can use a heat gun to assist in softening the glue. Your fingers will be burned and sore from pulling if you have to do a lot.
You make it sound so fun Peter...

Seriously though, are you suggesting I use a heat gun to remove what is left of the "good" glue against the transom and re-glue the entire strip? The earlier posters seem to think just re-glueing the failed part will suffice.

A question about the suggested use of masking tape / gaffa tape. Is that to protect and keep the transom clear from the excess glue that will run out of the seam?
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Old 30 April 2011, 03:58   #12
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Originally Posted by manitoban View Post
You make it sound so fun Peter...

Seriously though, are you suggesting I use a heat gun to remove what is left of the "good" glue against the transom and re-glue the entire strip? The earlier posters seem to think just re-glueing the failed part will suffice.

A question about the suggested use of masking tape / gaffa tape. Is that to protect and keep the transom clear from the excess glue that will run out of the seam?
Yes, there are often rewards for hard work and pain and suffering.

Yes, but use your judgement based on the rest of the glue holding power.

Yes, the masking tape keeps the glue line clean as you put the glue on with a brush quickly and wildly as the glue dries fast. I only mixed up the glue I could use up in about 8 minutes.
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Old 30 April 2011, 15:01   #13
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I have a futura mk2 and I have had very similar experiences with the glued seams. My welded tubes have held up very well, but I did pull apart all of the seams that would come open without damaging the underlying fabrics PVC coating. My floor did not come apart all the way around and sections of the transom to tube seams had been previously repaired. I glued everything together and have not had issues where the seams were not separated and reglued. I expected them to fail later, but they still haven't come apart after years of abuse. Everyone has to go with what they are comfortable with. I have faith in my tubes and was willing to accept the possible odd leak over time. Just my opinion, but I would not force seams apart that are well bonded. I did pull hard! Gluing sections of the floor, the front of a speed tube and the majority of the transom was a pain, took a lot of time and was totally worthwhile for me. Good luck. Preperation is everything.

I've used Weaver, Polymarine and StaBond glues. Weaver is fine, but these two part glues have a shelf life of 1 year, don't like being stored in heat or cold and are hygroscopic (suck up water). So avoid old stock and previously opened cans and jars. I like NRS for Stabond because they sell a lot and it's fresh.

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