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Old 08 January 2015, 16:33   #1
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Frib. A couple of mods

Now that the Xmas holidays are over and a good day for the weather today, I decided to sort a couple of things on the Frib ready to get her out for some fishing.

Firstly, I wanted to use my wheels from my Excel as they were 360mm dia and I find them to be much easier to get over softer ground. The problem is that the transom on the Frib has a lip which prevents the wheels locking in the upright position and so needed spacers making in order to be able to lock them up when on the water. I could of course bought 250mm wheels but not too keen on going that small.



The size difference is quite considerable when you put them together. I must admit however if I could afford a set of Beachmaster wheels, I could be tempted. I made a couple of plastic spacer plates to give me enough clearance.




A quick check with the wheels on just to make sure



I also wanted to fit spacers on the outside transom engine plate as my Parsun seems to touch the lip of the transom and again I made a few ready.



It may well be the Parsun which has a smaller radius where it sits on the transom but nevertheless 9mm of plastic was used to create a better fit.




While I was playing I also stuck on a piece of rubber to protect the GRP top lip as I can be a tad clumsy putting the motor on so prevention is better than cure.




I still have the cuddy to fit but I am not so keen to use the supplied adhesive as it has to be mixed with acetone at 20% and that worries me a little. I would be interested to hear what you guys think on that one. Here are the fittings that need gluing



Now in the past when I have had a puncture, which has always been in warm weather, I stuck the patch with no air in the tube, only pumping the tubes back up after the glue has cured. The instructions here are to fit these connectors with fully blown up tubes and leave to set for at least 12 hours. Well I am tempted to buy some of the Poly Marine adhesive and fit them with no air in the tubes in order to allow the connectors to stick properly as I cant see they will shape around the tubes when blown up. Is it me guys, or do you agree, I would be interested to hear your comments. I also think the air temperature at this time of the year will need the tubes to be flat in order to get a good grip.


On a different subject. As I get older, I am finding it tricky to put the 15hp in the car on my own and whilst it is a 2 stroke weighing 37kg, it still bloody heavy for me. Now I have looked at the trolley with wheels fitted to the handles so you can slide the engine in quite easily but at £150 and taking quite a bit of space, I thought of another way for this old tart not to hurt my back again.
I had some industrial castors in the garage and fitted them to a piece of plywood



Then glued some thick sponge to give support to the engine



By standing the outboard up against the car tailgate, using a piece of rubber backed door mat to protect the bumper, I am able to basically lift the prop end of the engine just a little, which while the engine is leaning on the car allows it to lay back into the car and on the little skate.
Difficult to explain in words so I hope it makes sense.
The engine is now VERY easy to move around in the car and when in position, simply lock the wheels of the skate and away we go. Reverse the process when taking the engine out. It really does make life much easier.
This is something you will all turn around and say, yes we do a similar thing and if so, I'm sorry to be a boring just seemed to be a back saver for me.

Phil
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Old 08 January 2015, 16:37   #2
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Necessity the mother of invention. Well done you. Regards Jim
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Old 08 January 2015, 17:38   #3
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Great job you have done there Phil
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Old 08 January 2015, 17:54   #4
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Curious. Are you using a CNC router, handheld router, or table mounted router for your plastic pieces? Nice job!

So cutting the lip on the transom is not an option? Doesn't look very structural in the picture.
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Old 08 January 2015, 18:53   #5
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Me, with a router------------no, hand cut with a wood saw and finished with a belt sander Peter.
I really didn't fancy cutting the transom with the boat being brand new, warranty etc.

Phil
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Old 08 January 2015, 19:07   #6
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Well if you ever want to do it again and have access to a router and a follower bit (Uses a bearing to follow the pattern) you could cut your work time in 1/6th. I sometimes forget about the good old hand tools way myself.
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Old 08 January 2015, 19:36   #7
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I have always fancied a router but never got round to buying one.
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Old 09 January 2015, 06:58   #8
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Good job Phil.
As you say, best to leave the transom untouched being a new boat it would invalidate any warranty you have.
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Old 09 January 2015, 07:00   #9
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Oh, meant to add, you could always use a couple of clevis pins to remove the wheels from the bracket . Less fiddly.
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Old 09 January 2015, 23:00   #10
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Oh, meant to add, you could always use a couple of clevis pins to remove the wheels from the bracket . Less fiddly.
A good idea and far better than the bolt that holds them, make a note to look on ebay.

Phil
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Old 10 January 2015, 07:22   #11
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Hi Phil, these are great posts, I'm totally hooked on FHIL FILES, getting some great tips and can't wait to see some pics of you out on the water
All the best
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Old 10 January 2015, 19:58   #12
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Hi Phil, these are great posts, I'm totally hooked on FHIL FILES, getting some great tips and can't wait to see some pics of you out on the water
All the best
Ha ha, nice of you to say Mick. When the weather or at least the gale force winds have settled, I will be ready to get her out on the water but without a GoPro or similar camera, I think any pics could be a bit boring nevertheless I will be doing some.

I have to find out how to load on here vid clips----------out of my depth here.

Phil
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Old 11 January 2015, 09:55   #13
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Always good to get started on the pre-season mods Phil. I reckon for the rest of us any pics or video you could get taken by a second person of you using it would be great. There are quite a few waiting on this launch!

BTW what is the transom thickness excluding the lip?
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Old 11 January 2015, 10:06   #14
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Not sure what the thickness is because the lip stops me from simply measuring it but I am doing a little job in the garage today so I will check it for you.

UPDATE

Just had a look and the transom wall is approx 30mm with a 25mm lip at the widest point narrowing where the engine sits.

Phil
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Old 11 January 2015, 10:52   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philpot View Post
The instructions here are to fit these connectors with fully blown up tubes and leave to set for at least 12 hours. Well I am tempted to buy some of the Poly Marine adhesive and fit them with no air in the tubes in order to allow the connectors to stick properly as I cant see they will shape around the tubes when blown up. Is it me guys, or do you agree, I would be interested to hear your comments. I also think the air temperature at this time of the year will need the tubes to be flat in order to get a good grip.
IMHO, follow the instructions to the letter. Most fabric glues need to be applied in warmish conditions and with as low humidity as possible. A cold damp shed is not good. Water weakens the bond, so even if it appears stuck....

Gluing inflated seems sensible to me. You could warm the fittings a tad beforehand to make them pliable. A patch experiences a completely different set of forces than this fitting will.
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Old 11 January 2015, 11:00   #16
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A very valid point indeed. I may wait until the warmer weather is here to fit the cuddy because the base fittings are quite thick and even if warmed to shape, I think they may be a tad tricky to keep shape for the curing period.
There is no damp in the garage but it is really cold and not the ideal conditions to be gluing these things unless my dear dear wife allows me to do the job in the cottage, ah then again the smell of the glue Hmmmm perhaps not.

Phil
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Old 11 January 2015, 11:54   #17
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There is no damp in the garage
Humidity and damp are not the same. Outside is too humid all year around, fairly much. Rib builders glue in heated workshops AND keep an eye on humidity. I'd try for the cottage if you want to do it early. Tell the missus that InflatableIngrid from RIBnet offered you her heated workshop and a hand if you took it over there (she's quite close to you, IIRC ). What could possibly go wrong?
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Old 11 January 2015, 13:51   #18
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Humidity and damp are not the same. Outside is too humid all year around, fairly much. Rib builders glue in heated workshops AND keep an eye on humidity. I'd try for the cottage if you want to do it early. Tell the missus that InflatableIngrid from RIBnet offered you her heated workshop and a hand if you took it over there (she's quite close to you, IIRC ). What could possibly go wrong?


Actually I have just been round to my son in laws and found something I had completely forgotten, he has an ajoined HEATED garage which is empty, hey presto.

Phil
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Old 11 January 2015, 16:23   #19
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Anything glued to the tubes should be done with the inflated. If something won't conform easily to the hull it should be heated to make it more pliable, over bent into shape and allowed to cool in that position. Form it into position.
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Old 11 January 2015, 17:03   #20
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Anything glued to the tubes should be done with the inflated. If something won't conform easily to the hull it should be heated to make it more pliable, over bent into shape and allowed to cool in that position. Form it into position.
I am so glad I stated my thoughts as I have never added anything to the tubes before, thank you chaps. I just need to find some D ring patches now.

Phil
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