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Old 10 January 2015, 03:22   #11
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Hi Phil, these are great posts, I'm totally hooked on FHIL FILES, getting some great tips and can't wait to see some pics of you out on the water
All the best
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Old 10 January 2015, 15:58   #12
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Hi Phil, these are great posts, I'm totally hooked on FHIL FILES, getting some great tips and can't wait to see some pics of you out on the water
All the best
Ha ha, nice of you to say Mick. When the weather or at least the gale force winds have settled, I will be ready to get her out on the water but without a GoPro or similar camera, I think any pics could be a bit boring nevertheless I will be doing some.

I have to find out how to load on here vid clips----------out of my depth here.

Phil
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Old 11 January 2015, 05:55   #13
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Always good to get started on the pre-season mods Phil. I reckon for the rest of us any pics or video you could get taken by a second person of you using it would be great. There are quite a few waiting on this launch!

BTW what is the transom thickness excluding the lip?
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Old 11 January 2015, 06:06   #14
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Not sure what the thickness is because the lip stops me from simply measuring it but I am doing a little job in the garage today so I will check it for you.

UPDATE

Just had a look and the transom wall is approx 30mm with a 25mm lip at the widest point narrowing where the engine sits.

Phil
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Old 11 January 2015, 06:52   #15
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The instructions here are to fit these connectors with fully blown up tubes and leave to set for at least 12 hours. Well I am tempted to buy some of the Poly Marine adhesive and fit them with no air in the tubes in order to allow the connectors to stick properly as I cant see they will shape around the tubes when blown up. Is it me guys, or do you agree, I would be interested to hear your comments. I also think the air temperature at this time of the year will need the tubes to be flat in order to get a good grip.
IMHO, follow the instructions to the letter. Most fabric glues need to be applied in warmish conditions and with as low humidity as possible. A cold damp shed is not good. Water weakens the bond, so even if it appears stuck....

Gluing inflated seems sensible to me. You could warm the fittings a tad beforehand to make them pliable. A patch experiences a completely different set of forces than this fitting will.
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Old 11 January 2015, 07:00   #16
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A very valid point indeed. I may wait until the warmer weather is here to fit the cuddy because the base fittings are quite thick and even if warmed to shape, I think they may be a tad tricky to keep shape for the curing period.
There is no damp in the garage but it is really cold and not the ideal conditions to be gluing these things unless my dear dear wife allows me to do the job in the cottage, ah then again the smell of the glue Hmmmm perhaps not.

Phil
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Old 11 January 2015, 07:54   #17
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There is no damp in the garage
Humidity and damp are not the same. Outside is too humid all year around, fairly much. Rib builders glue in heated workshops AND keep an eye on humidity. I'd try for the cottage if you want to do it early. Tell the missus that InflatableIngrid from RIBnet offered you her heated workshop and a hand if you took it over there (she's quite close to you, IIRC ). What could possibly go wrong?
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Old 11 January 2015, 09:51   #18
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Humidity and damp are not the same. Outside is too humid all year around, fairly much. Rib builders glue in heated workshops AND keep an eye on humidity. I'd try for the cottage if you want to do it early. Tell the missus that InflatableIngrid from RIBnet offered you her heated workshop and a hand if you took it over there (she's quite close to you, IIRC ). What could possibly go wrong?


Actually I have just been round to my son in laws and found something I had completely forgotten, he has an ajoined HEATED garage which is empty, hey presto.

Phil
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Old 11 January 2015, 12:23   #19
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Anything glued to the tubes should be done with the inflated. If something won't conform easily to the hull it should be heated to make it more pliable, over bent into shape and allowed to cool in that position. Form it into position.
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Old 11 January 2015, 13:03   #20
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Anything glued to the tubes should be done with the inflated. If something won't conform easily to the hull it should be heated to make it more pliable, over bent into shape and allowed to cool in that position. Form it into position.
I am so glad I stated my thoughts as I have never added anything to the tubes before, thank you chaps. I just need to find some D ring patches now.

Phil
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