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Old 23 May 2012, 18:17   #11
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So second part of the story is i want to fit some seats and a console. Question is do i have to fix the seat on one panel and the console on another panel, to allow the panels to bend slightly?
It would like being on the catapiller at the fun fair at Belle Vue back in the 70's great fun though
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Old 23 May 2012, 18:49   #12
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I agree. Is this a wind up

Not by me, as well as the video that I have posted, I have also seen a Suzumar 2.1 with a 25hp 2 stroke on it.

I was trying to illustrate to the OP that overpowering is not always a good thing.
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Old 23 May 2012, 19:15   #13
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I agree. Is this a wind up
He's got some bottle, its a couple of bobs worth of motor to end up at the bottom of the dock!!
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Old 23 May 2012, 19:30   #14
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Well, I am not looking for danger. So better get a 4.2m sib? At this point still possible.

But threat question would be the same. How to fix stuff. Thanks landlocked pirate.

Edit: Is a 3.8m 1.7wide with 50kg rated transom still too crazy?
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Old 24 May 2012, 01:03   #15
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There seem to be lots of people using 25-30hp on 3.8m boats. Are 3.8m that much of a difference to 3.3m I guess the length does not matter too much on the plane, can also be done with trimming. Weight ist also similar. So is it safer because of its width (more support when cornering)? I could imagine a wider boat could also be more unstable regarding chime walking. Please help me understand the dynamics behind.

So is it only the transom to worry about? That's obviously just a mechanical problem that can be calculated.
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Old 24 May 2012, 01:58   #16
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Originally Posted by snakeeater View Post
Well, I am not looking for danger. So better get a 4.2m sib? At this point still possible.

But threat question would be the same. How to fix stuff. Thanks landlocked pirate.

Edit: Is a 3.8m 1.7wide with 50kg rated transom still too crazy?
i would say that you would get away with that (3.8 + 30hp). i would also say that if you were to try both boats out on the water, you would notice a big difference in their handling and stability with any engine on the back.
as for fixing stuff down then why not use bolts glued in place from underneath the floor so as to keep them captive, then slot your seating etc down over the bolts and fix using wing nuts(?) and washers?
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Old 24 May 2012, 02:49   #17
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Hi,
Now what I am considering is to bolt bars onto the alu SIB floor to make the boat stronger in length direction, considering the engine power.
Good idea or not a good idea? Does a SIB need flex in the long direction? I suppose at least for the alu boards in the middle it should be good. How about the front triangle? Does this have to flex (how much max)? If the front triangle does not flex there might be more load on the tubes, right?
I would think that any floor reinforcements to stop the floor flexing could only be a GOOD thing.

The lest the floor flexes the better right? Or am I wrong?
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Old 24 May 2012, 04:26   #18
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A wood or alloy floor as long as it's in decent order and properly fitted is rigid enough for the purposes of a SIB. It doesn't matter how much additional stiffness you add to a sectional floor because underneath it there is still a flappy PVC/rubber floor with a minimal V section formed by a squashy inflatable keel.
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Old 06 June 2012, 09:23   #19
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I have to decide on the boat now, so please one more time your honest and constructive advice.

I will get the 30hp 2s.

Will be driving on lakes and rivers only, no big waves.

Payload will be 250kgs on average, 200kgs minimum, evenly distributed.

Driving for fun, not to haul stuff or get from A to B.

I definitely do not worry about the transom. I will make a massive aluminum mounting bracket to to fix engine bracket and transom to the alu floor boards. Will secure the engine to the tube. No matter which boat.

I will get smart tabs for handling and balance.


Choices of boats:

3.3m long, 1.5m wide
considerations: Several people here and on youtube seem to drive 3.3m boars with 25hp 2s. With two people that seems to be just right, not scary at all.
Size seems right for my storage and handling possibilities.
With smart tabs it will handle like a slightly longer boat?

or 3.8m, 1.7m wide
considerations: Everybody in this threat says 3.3m is crazy (I take your experience very serious)
But will it still be fun to drive with 250kg load? (get on the plane, cornering)


It all comes down to the handling. I do not want to break speed records while jumping around like a tennis ball with the keel up high in the air.

I want a boat that handles precise and swift and goes as fast as it is stable, taking into account flat water, well distributed weight and smart tabs.
I am not expecting wonders out of these. If you still say 3.3 is too crazy I will listen.

Sorry, just hard to imagine for a noob that there is that a big difference between 3.3 and 3.8 in handling. Please convince me
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Old 06 June 2012, 09:42   #20
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Get the 3.8m boat and put the 39hp on it. Done.
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