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Old 02 March 2013, 15:16   #11
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Quicksilver 380 hd/Bombard aerotec 3.8/ Avon etc and married to a 18-20 hp outboard, you can't go wrong with any combo.
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Old 02 March 2013, 16:05   #12
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Quicksilver 380 hd/Bombard aerotec 3.8/ Avon etc and married to a 18-20 hp outboard, you can't go wrong with any combo.
Yep!
I had some Great Days fishing in my SIB-Zodiac and 20 HP Merc Blueband-Shallow Draft means you can get in anywhere- Easy to Beach,and re Launch-Low running costs- Tiller steer keeps Deck Open-Easy Tow-Launch Recovery-Great for Drift fishing with Live Sand-Eel as being light they realy catch the Breeze and Cover the Ground.
Obviously they wont do all a Bigger RIB can,but ''Bang For Buck'' they take some beating!
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Old 04 March 2013, 12:21   #13
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Better buy alum floorsboards sibs over wooden ones, price difference is small. If wanting long lasting floors, rinse them with fresh water after use, place sib flat at a small high bow angle, open drain water walve for water and probably sand to exit too. Have been tretaing all of my sibs /ribs with Aerospace Protectant 303, protects well UV radiation and color skin fabric remains unaltered over the years.

If sib is under inflated, 2.0 psi or less and sitting on tubes, will experiment "marshmellow" tube issues. Once sib is resting on water for some minutes for pressure to stabilize, with a gauge inflate to at least 2.5 or top to 3.0 psi including inflatable keel for outstanding performance.

If going for a Tohatsu 18, which by the way is same size and weights same of their detuned 9.9/15 HP bothers, get a auxiliary 3.5, same as the 2.5 but with slight bigger punch, both with internal 1.6 ltr tank. Don't forget a proper anchor and at least 25 Mt rope for near shore fishing, just in case. Mercury's same HP which are rabadged Tohatsu's costs more...

Happy Boating
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Old 04 March 2013, 13:27   #14
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Better buy alum floorsboards sibs over wooden ones, price difference is small. If wanting long lasting floors, rinse them with fresh water after use, place sib flat at a small high bow angle, open drain water walve for water and probably sand to exit too. Have been tretaing all of my sibs /ribs with Aerospace Protectant 303, protects well UV radiation and color skin fabric remains unaltered over the years.

If sib is under inflated, 2.0 psi or less and sitting on tubes, will experiment "marshmellow" tube issues. Once sib is resting on water for some minutes for pressure to stabilize, with a gauge inflate to at least 2.5 or top to 3.0 psi including inflatable keel for outstanding performance.

If going for a Tohatsu 18, which by the way is same size and weights same of their detuned 9.9/15 HP bothers, get a auxiliary 3.5, same as the 2.5 but with slight bigger punch, both with internal 1.6 ltr tank. Don't forget a proper anchor and at least 25 Mt rope for near shore fishing, just in case. Mercury's same HP which are rabadged Tohatsu's costs more...

Happy Boating
+1

great reply and saved me a lot of time,. The ali floor is by far the best way to go. we work with Europes biggest online fishing company and have sold a few to their customers who rave about them.

the tohastsu advice above is 100% right and by far the best way to go if you can.


dave
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Old 04 March 2013, 19:05   #15
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Dave, thanks for that +1.

Should have said : With inflated keel, place sib on flat surface, open water drain plug and rinse sib's alum floorboards with fresh water...

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Old 05 March 2013, 00:49   #16
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With most SIBs you are better off with aluminum floorboards, however there are several high end SIB manufacturers that choose to use high quality floor boards and stringers, when the could actually opt to use less expensive aluminum floors.

A well built wood floor (eg 3/4" marine plywood, purpleheart or mahogany stringers) can be far stronger and stiffer than typical commercially made aluminum floorboards extruded aluminum stringers).

Of the 3 SIBs I have owned, 2 have wood floors, 1 has aluminum. The aluminum floor in the Zodiac GR II is considerably superior to the wood floor in one boat (another Zodiac) but far inferior to the wood floor in the other boat (a Gemini).
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Old 05 March 2013, 08:52   #17
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Thinking it over, before buying an auxiliary engine, check if with sufficient transom space to mount it, now a days most middle size sibs comes with water splash guards glued between rear tubes and transom, so not much available space left over for the aux.

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Old 05 March 2013, 09:13   #18
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....comes with water splash guards glued between rear tubes and transom....


lol - just kidding - good point
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Old 05 March 2013, 09:35   #19
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lol - just kidding - good point
but on a serious note, i presume no harm would be done by cutting them off ??
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Old 05 March 2013, 11:43   #20
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On some boats such as the older Zodiacs the little triangular spray guards had press studs so they could be loosened .

As (scissor hand) Willk was saying cutting them off shouldn't make much difference anyhow think they are more for stopping water slopping into the boat if stern on to waves perhaps when beaching than just general spray .
With small inflatables engines I have found it easier to keep the aux engine upfront and either swap or bring the main engine into the boat or slack the main engine and slide it over a bit also though suppose it depends on available space how lumpy the sea is & how often your going to need the aux .
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