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Old 02 October 2012, 04:28   #11
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if you use a std 12v battery you can easily charge it from your car.
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Old 02 October 2012, 11:40   #12
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if you use a std 12v battery you can easily charge it from your car.
Not really. Two unlike batteries charging at the same amperage is not a good thing. Plus the chances of getting a full charge on "the ride home" are going to be pretty much non existent, except for maybe those that drive 5+ hours to the water. Unless of course you use the alternator to power a battery charger...

A decent quality small portable charger left on overnight will charge it, then put a float charge on it to top it up completely.
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Old 20 October 2012, 17:52   #13
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I've got one similar this, which takes batteries in the back:

ECHOFISH 300 HAND HELD FISH FINDER | Marine Super Store

Sorry, but I cannot recommend it as I have not got around to using it yet (despite having owned it for a couple of years, I think!)

I own a Bombard Aerotec, and I'm hoping that I will be able to put the transducer between into the gap between the two halves of the high pressure deck, at the rear of the boat, so that it takes it's readings through the keel of the boat (well, that's the hope, anyway).

Other than that, this fish finder has a hand held transducer that you hold over the side, or one on a float that you stream out behind the boat.

All sounds a bit unlikely, but I'll get around to testing it one day.

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Old 20 October 2012, 18:07   #14
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I've used the float over the side version on my 380 tied to the fuel barge bouy in Poole Harbour

Never thought about seeing it it would read between the floor sections....but I doubt it..have to try it next time !
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Old 20 October 2012, 19:26   #15
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I've used the float over the side version on my 380 tied to the fuel barge bouy in Poole Harbour

Never thought about seeing it it would read between the floor sections....but I doubt it..have to try it next time !

I gather that the transducer needs to be in the water, but there is always water in the part of the aerotec that I am talking about (especially the way it comes flooding over my transom - LOL). So then the transducer will only need to read through the thin skin of the bottom of the boat.

I can see no reason (well, not many anyway) why it wouldn't work - although no doubt there will be others, more informed than me, who will see plenty of reasons!

I don't need it to find fish, but just to give me an indication as to when I am over certain prominent features.

Did it 'find' fish for you Peter?

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Old 21 October 2012, 00:13   #16
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I gather that the transducer needs to be in the water, but there is always water in the part of the aerotec that I am talking about (especially the way it comes flooding over my transom - LOL). So then the transducer will only need to read through the thin skin of the bottom of the boat.

I can see no reason (well, not many anyway) why it wouldn't work - although no doubt there will be others, more informed than me, who will see plenty of reasons!
I have no idea if it will work or not, but want to throw the idea of how to mount it out there. My previous boat had the transducer shoot thru the fiberglass hull. I needed to mount a bilge pump into the bottom of the Zodiac SIB and it could be used for something like a transducer fairly easily by changing the design to hold the transducer. Of course the ABS mounting plate could be either left out or also put a hole into.

I have PVC for performing repairs and upgrades along with the glue needed so it was easy enough for me. Plus I have an industrial sewing machine that punches through most anything, although it could be easily hand sewn (Use a thimble!). You could even cut a hole out of the middle of it to allow less material between the transducer and the actual body of water. Anyhow velcro can fix most anything. If there is room to pass the wires somewhere great, otherwise a router can help them pass through solid objects.

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Old 21 October 2012, 05:07   #17
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Wow, you really go for it, don't you!

I wouldn't need a permanent arrangement like that - I would just push the transducer into the previously mentioned gap as and when I need it.

.
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Old 05 November 2012, 01:41   #18
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Made this 12 volt electrical setup for all devices in my SIB, including my new Humminbird dual cone sonar. Works very-well and easily removes.
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Old 05 November 2012, 02:21   #19
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Hi nightfisher , thats the sort of set up i was thinking of, do u have transducer fixed or on removable bracket as i was hoping not to put holes in transom.
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Old 05 November 2012, 03:54   #20
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Hi nightfisher , thats the sort of set up i was thinking of, do u have transducer fixed or on removable bracket as i was hoping not to put holes in transom.

Hi maxitope,

My set-up has the transducer mounted just below (1/2") of the deepest part of keel, screwed into (but not through) the transom. Nothing wrong with putting holes in the transom--but, be sure to use a Marine Grade Silicone sealant both in the drill holes and screws to make it water-tight before screwing in the mount for the final time.

One word of caution, most Sonars are designed with a permanent bracket which holds BOTH the Power Connector and Tranducer connector when plugged into or removed from Sonar. Therefore, you will have to modify the bracket to be able to release the Transducer cable as it will stay with the boat when removing the battery pack if Sonar is mounted to the removable power pack or the transducer is permanently mounted to the transom.

Anything you want to know about the battery multi-outlet power system and switch/fuse panel, just let me know.
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