Exmoor coast part 2

[simonafloat]

Hi all, I haven’t been on this forum for a while, been busy with a project boat I bought.

Couple of years back I posted about my journey from Lee Bay to Combe Martin along the north Devon coast in our aerotec SIB.

So yesterday conditions were perfect for a continuation of the journey. Warm, light winds and most importantly a neap tide! The tidal flow along the Exmoor coast is by far the most important factor in planning your journey or not going at all.

We launched at Watermouth Harbour, just east of Illfracombe. I’ve been here many times before but not with a boat. The launch/retrieve fees are steep at £12 but it is a private slipway/boatyard/anchorage with all facilities, and can be accessed whatever the tide (I can’t think of anywhere else on this stretch of coast that affords you that freedom). Plus there’s a nice cafe in an old boat by the slipway.

So going back to the tides. The tidal flow, on a spring tide, is fierce and best avoided in a SIB. Even neap tides result in an expanse of 3 ft waves at every headland. And 3 knots of tide against 8 knots of wind will certainly give you a bumpy ride.

Running east from Watermouth are a series of absolutely stunning beaches, all of which are easily accessible via SIB. Round the corner Combe Martin beach leads up to shops, pubs and restaurants.

Continuing East from Combe Martin. The next section is very remote and completely inaccessible from land so be absolutely sure of conditions, make sure you have the fuel and a spare outboard to hand! (I’ve now got an old tohatsu OB that sits on the floor just in case of emergencies. To be honest though, anything less than 9hp isn’t going to do much more than keep you off the rocks while the RNLI come out to help you...

There is no mobile phone reception at all for the rest of the trip. You absolutely must have a VHF radio onboard.

The next section is bordered by Hangman cliffs, some of the tallest in the UK. If there’s been decent rainfall you’ll see many waterfalls along this section. Lots of big sea caves too. Watch out for lobster pots, they are everywhere and hard to spot sometimes.

There is a small beach at the end of this section called Heddons Mouth. You can stop here and if you don’t mind a hike just follow the path inland and you’ll find a nice pub after about a mile.

Many of the beaches under the towering cliffs of this section are home to seals. They’ll usually vacate as soon as they hear your engine but if you’re lucky you might spot a few. Same for dolphins and porpoises. It’s pot luck but you might cross paths with a pod of them.

After Heddons mouth there is another very inaccessible section so make sure you’re confident in the conditions etc etc.

The final section from Woody Bay through to Lynmouth is spectacular. We’re spoilt by the scenery in Devon but I was pretty speechless seeing some of this section for the first time. There are many coves and beaches in this area that would rival anywhere in the world for their beauty and wildlife. And the water is often very clear and perfect for snorkelling. Sea cliffs and rock tors along this section form "The Valley of Rocks", a famous local landmark. And just past them is the final destination of Lynmouth.

We didn’t stop at Lynmouth, as it’s only accessible near high tide due to the boulder beach. Very pretty place to visit if you get the time though.

Uneventful journey back, we had a bit of ebb tide behind us so much quicker. Bit bumpy around the headlands though!

If this stretch of coast wasn’t so exposed to weather changes and didn’t have such big tides it would be absolutely packed with people in the summer. But on the positive side, when conditions are just right you get to enjoy it and have it virtually to yourself!

Make sure your engine is 100%, take at least 20l fuel, have an anchor, spare outboard, vhf, gps, life jackets, food and water. But hopefully I’m not making it sound too daunting... it should be very do-able in any larger sib with a decent engine. You need light winds, neap tides. If the wind is from the south then even better as you’ll be in the lee of the cliffs the whole time and the water will be glassy.

I’ll be adding some pics shortly, I need to weed out the blurry ones!

Si

[Maximus]

Originally Posted by simonafloat

Hi all, I haven’t been on this forum for a while, been busy with a project boat I bought.

Couple of years back I posted about my journey from Lee Bay to Combe Martin along the north Devon coast in our aerotec SIB.

So yesterday conditions were perfect for a continuation of the journey. Warm, light winds and most importantly a neap tide! The tidal flow along the Exmoor coast is by far the most important factor in planning your journey or not going at all.

We launched at Watermouth Harbour, just east of Illfracombe. I’ve been here many times before but not with a boat. The launch/retrieve fees are steep at £12 but it is a private slipway/boatyard/anchorage with all facilities, and can be accessed whatever the tide (I can’t think of anywhere else on this stretch of coast that affords you that freedom). Plus there’s a nice cafe in an old boat by the slipway.

So going back to the tides. The tidal flow, on a spring tide, is fierce and best avoided in a SIB. Even neap tides result in an expanse of 3 ft waves at every headland. And 3 knots of tide against 8 knots of wind will certainly give you a bumpy ride.

Running east from Watermouth are a series of absolutely stunning beaches, all of which are easily accessible via SIB. Round the corner Combe Martin beach leads up to shops, pubs and restaurants.

Continuing East from Combe Martin. The next section is very remote and completely inaccessible from land so be absolutely sure of conditions, make sure you have the fuel and a spare outboard to hand! (I’ve now got an old tohatsu OB that sits on the floor just in case of emergencies. To be honest though, anything less than 9hp isn’t going to do much more than keep you off the rocks while the RNLI come out to help you...

There is no mobile phone reception at all for the rest of the trip. You absolutely must have a VHF radio onboard.

The next section is bordered by Hangman cliffs, some of the tallest in the UK. If there’s been decent rainfall you’ll see many waterfalls along this section. Lots of big sea caves too. Watch out for lobster pots, they are everywhere and hard to spot sometimes.

There is a small beach at the end of this section called Heddons Mouth. You can stop here and if you don’t mind a hike just follow the path inland and you’ll find a nice pub after about a mile.

Many of the beaches under the towering cliffs of this section are home to seals. They’ll usually vacate as soon as they hear your engine but if you’re lucky you might spot a few. Same for dolphins and porpoises. It’s pot luck but you might cross paths with a pod of them.

After Heddons mouth there is another very inaccessible section so make sure you’re confident in the conditions etc etc.

The final section from Woody Bay through to Lynmouth is spectacular. We’re spoilt by the scenery in Devon but I was pretty speechless seeing some of this section for the first time. There are many coves and beaches in this area that would rival anywhere in the world for their beauty and wildlife. And the water is often very clear and perfect for snorkelling. Sea cliffs and rock tors along this section form "The Valley of Rocks", a famous local landmark. And just past them is the final destination of Lynmouth.

We didn’t stop at Lynmouth, as it’s only accessible near high tide due to the boulder beach. Very pretty place to visit if you get the time though.

Uneventful journey back, we had a bit of ebb tide behind us so much quicker. Bit bumpy around the headlands though!

If this stretch of coast wasn’t so exposed to weather changes and didn’t have such big tides it would be absolutely packed with people in the summer. But on the positive side, when conditions are just right you get to enjoy it and have it virtually to yourself!

Make sure your engine is 100%, take at least 20l fuel, have an anchor, spare outboard, vhf, gps, life jackets, food and water. But hopefully I’m not making it sound too daunting... it should be very do-able in any larger sib with a decent engine. You need light winds, neap tides. If the wind is from the south then even better as you’ll be in the lee of the cliffs the whole time and the water will be glassy.

I’ll be adding some pics shortly, I need to weed out the blurry ones!

Si

Lovely Coastline to visit with plenty of very seldom frequented places bit of a Lost World feel to it..Best explored via a SIb...but conditions have to be good!....In fact it pays not to be caught out there in any size RIB...as VERY few places of refuge and exceptional tidal range and flow! although good Rocky Bottom if you do need to anchor in an emergency....

The Waterfall past Woody Bay due to its remote location was often frequented by German Submarines at night during Both wars to top up their fresh water supplies...until sometime in 1942 when a local farmer notified the authorities of "strange goings on"..and a Gun emplacement was introduced on the Cliffs
As you say lots of seals and other wildlife...with lots of Pups during the Spring.
Great fishing grounds there too....as the bottom is too rough for conventional trawling and a bit remote for Gill Nets..
Often Blue Shark sightings on the surface during high summer very close inshore...and really good to chuck a Pot over if you can leave it overnight
Look forward to the pics

[Brian]

Is Watermouth Harour really "can be accessed whatever the tide (I can’t think of anywhere else on this stretch of coast that affords you that freedom"?

Seems to dry a long way out according to Google Earth........

But.....bloody good writeup!!

[simonafloat]

Originally Posted by Brian

Is Watermouth Harour really "can be accessed whatever the tide (I can’t think of anywhere else on this stretch of coast that affords you that freedom"?

Seems to dry a long way out according to Google Earth........

But.....bloody good writeup!!

According to the harbourmaster there is soft sand right at the bottom of the bay but this is only exposed on the biggest springs. The rest of the time it is flat, hard packed sand and shingle, you can easily launch and retrieve by hand or even in a car (4x4 probably wise further down. I walked our aerotec back up at low neap tide with no issues.

[simonafloat]

Originally Posted by Maximus

Lovely Coastline to visit with plenty of very seldom frequented places bit of a Lost World feel to it..Best explored via a SIb...but conditions have to be good!....In fact it pays not to be caught out there in any size RIB...as VERY few places of refuge and exceptional tidal range and flow! although good Rocky Bottom if you do need to anchor in an emergency....

The Waterfall past Woody Bay due to its remote location was often frequented by German Submarines at night during Both wars to top up their fresh water supplies...until sometime in 1942 when a local farmer notified the authorities of "strange goings on"..and a Gun emplacement was introduced on the Cliffs
As you say lots of seals and other wildlife...with lots of Pups during the Spring.
Great fishing grounds there too....as the bottom is too rough for conventional trawling and a bit remote for Gill Nets..
Often Blue Shark sightings on the surface during high summer very close inshore...and really good to chuck a Pot over if you can leave it overnight
Look forward to the pics

Apparently some Uboat ratings returned after the war as tourists to see what lay beyond the coast!

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[Fenlander]

Great report Simon... really enjoyed reading it. As you say very rugged and sensible planning needed.

[simonafloat]

[simonafloat]

[jeffstevens763@g]

Good report great pics Superb

[Maximus]

Originally Posted by Brian

Is Watermouth Harour really "can be accessed whatever the tide (I can’t think of anywhere else on this stretch of coast that affords you that freedom"?

Seems to dry a long way out according to Google Earth........

But.....bloody good writeup!!

Watermouth "Harbour" is a bit of a misnomer... only assessable in a small SIB/Craft and then a longish carry at times other than approaching or at High water...when you CAN get bigger stuff in....more of a long narrow rocky inlett with a hard bottom...and Beach launch only.
Ilfracome has a decent Harbour but as most Bristol Channel Harbours does dry out...although it's over sand.
Lynmouth..Clovelley...and Porlock can be accessed only over high...Fuel is NOT readily available...So options are very limited and time sensitive.
Watchet Harbour (has pontoons ect) and is a good jump off ...as is Cardif on the other side...both of which have Tidal lock gates but even with these they are often Time restricted on Springs because of the extreme tidal range.
Appledore is another option although the Sand Bar can on occasion be a little "Fruity" ....has facilities and moorings you can hire...fuel a walk but doable...and doesn't dry out...being up River.
Not a Coastline or Waters to be taken lightly...but with a bit of planning well worth the Effort and The Isle of Lundy only a few miles off shore it should be on most people's must do list

[simonafloat]

Originally Posted by Maximus

Watermouth "Harbour" is a bit of a misnomer... only assessable in a small SIB/Craft and then a longish carry at times other than approaching or at High water...when you CAN get bigger stuff in....more of a long narrow rocky inlett with a hard bottom...and Beach launch only.
Ilfracome has a decent Harbour but as most Bristol Channel Harbours does dry out...although it's over sand.
Lynmouth..Clovelley...and Porlock can be accessed only over high...Fuel is NOT readily available...So options are very limited and time sensitive.
Watchet Harbour (has pontoons ect) and is a good jump off ...as is Cardif on the other side...both of which have Tidal lock gates but even with these they are often Time restricted on Springs because of the extreme tidal range.
Appledore is another option although the Sand Bar can on occasion be a little "Fruity" ....has facilities and moorings you can hire...fuel a walk but doable...and doesn't dry out...being up River.
Not a Coastline or Waters to be taken lightly...but with a bit of planning well worth the Effort and The Isle of Lundy only a few miles off shore it should be on most people's must do list

Definitely worth the effort! Just requires a little planning as you say.