Engine Bolt

knube1 · 10 October 2018, 10:09

Hi Guy's

I want to trailer my Honwave with the engine attached. I have a lock that stops the engine clamps from moving but do I also need to bolt the engine to the transom.

Fenlander · 10 October 2018, 10:22

It's not essential with smaller motors but a 20hp is a weight that would make me think it's a good idea. In fact I've taken to bolting my motors when on the water anyway... even with my current 10hp.

One of the reasons is when running with an outboard lock on the clamps you can't check they are tight during the day without the faff of removing it... so I go for belt and braces.

knube1 · 10 October 2018, 10:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fenlander

It's not essential with smaller motors but a 20hp is a weight that would make me think it's a good idea. In fact I've taken to bolting my motors when on the water anyway... even with my current 10hp.

One of the reasons is when running with an outboard lock on the clamps you can't check they are tight during the day without the faff or removing it... so I go for belt and braces.

Thanks Fenlander, I think you have just confirmed what I was already thinking. now lets see if I can get it in the correct position first time

Fenlander · 10 October 2018, 10:56

You should be OK as you have the OB on all the time. As ours is a daily setup I drilled the transom holes a couple of drill sizes up from the bolt dia so there was a little leeway given it's hard to drop the OB on mm perfect each time.

knube1 · 10 October 2018, 11:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fenlander

You should be OK as you have the OB on all the time. As ours is a daily setup I drilled the transom holes a couple of drill sizes up from the bolt dia so there was a little leeway given it's hard to drop the OB on mm perfect each time.

Did you sleeve the hole with a piece of pipe and seal that to the transom, then cut flush.

Fenlander · 10 October 2018, 11:26

No... I always drill a little oversize whatever I'm fixing to the transom then seal the bore surface with a couple of coats of paint. I accept in extreme conditions you could say the bolt may rub the paint leading to the possibility of water getting to the timber but on a daily inflate craft that sits dry packed most of the time it's not an issue.

The pipe may be more of an idea with transoms such as yours as they are a sandwich (mine is just one piece of ply) and there could just be the possibility of water getting between the layers.

knube1 · 10 October 2018, 11:43

Thanks for the advice, I will go with the pipe, last thing I need is a soggy transom.

chipko · 10 October 2018, 12:50

Personally I wouldn’t bolt any portable motor to the transom. Just no need, keep clamps checked tight and attach a short safety rope between saddle and transom - good practice anyway.

However if you do, get in plenty of on water testing to make sure engine height is ok first. No room for manoeuvre after.

Also what if you change motor or sell boat. Filled/redundant holes not a good selling feature imho.

Fenlander · 10 October 2018, 13:14

True it's a personal choice... and I'd not done so for many years until we started leaving the boat unattended for longer periods over lunch etc so needed the outboard lock on all the time. As I said that lock prevents checking the clamp tightness without taking the lock off and that's a faff. It was always my habit to quickly check the clamps were tight each time I started the motor.

Also recently I thought more about what actually happens with the OB jumping off and thrashing about on the end of the safety rope.

So add those two factors together and it was an easy decision.

Re the holes... well fixing transom wheels usually means drilling 8 holes for something a future buyer might want to remove or change for a different type... so the extra 2 for OB bolts isn't a big deal.

Fenlander · 10 October 2018, 13:17

Oh and for my own specific situation I've lifted the transom a bit recently and the OB bolts were part of the integrity I considered when planning the job.

knube1 · 10 October 2018, 13:50

I think the bolts are the way for me, I think a short safety rope when doing 60mph if it was to come lose would probably result in some engine damage at best, if the holes were no longer required they could be plugged with a timber dowel short of the surface and gel coated over to give a satisfactory result, the engine is a Honda and if I had to replace it I would probably go with the same so as long as Honda do not move the bolt holes I should be good to go and have the piece of mind that if the boat is in my rear view mirror the engine is still attached and it is not laid on the road or worse.

Fenlander · 10 October 2018, 14:15

I know what Chipko means to an extent. I've seen the images of his SIB and OB when he sold them a while back... all credit to him he keeps his gear as if new.

chipko · 10 October 2018, 15:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fenlander

I know what Chipko means to an extent. I've seen the images of his SIB and OB when he sold them a while back... all credit to him he keeps his gear as if new.

Ha. Yep guilty, slightly OCD.

I would however have no qualms drilling if a safety issue whilst on the water. Drilled many a hole for towing eye/u-bolts, wheels etc. Agree bolted whilst towing would provide additional peace of mind.

Although we kept our sibs on launching trolleys all season, still took motor off to give transom/tubes a rest (and for security). Tubes inflated at half pressure for storage wouldn’t give much support to transom joints with motor load.

jeffstevens763@g · 10 October 2018, 18:00

I use bolts on my 25 I wouldn't tow without I also do it for security I've started using gorilla glue to seal bolt holes it's 100% waterproof and swells 4-5 times which seals the hole internally also use sika on the water side as an extra seal