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Old 05 May 2016, 08:42   #11
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Originally Posted by Bodge View Post
First time I looked down that valve is when the flash went off.....

So these valves release pressure as well? These pics are from my 1970 GR MK11 but the C5 has them as well.
Attached are some diagrams from a 30 year old Zodiac service manual I have.

If the valves are seized (if you can't turn the flywheel), you may need a Zodiac MilPro service center to assist you...it requires a special tool to unseize them without damage. Since they are bronze, they are quite soft. If you damage one of these valves, you basically junk the boat...the valves are about ~$500 new. They also take many many hours to install due to the complexity.





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Old 05 May 2016, 11:05   #12
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Thank you Richard for the valve schematic, I can now wrap my head around how that thing works. The assembly is on there pretty tightly so it may have to go to Milpro for assistance. Any ideas on what a valve rebuild would cost?
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Old 05 May 2016, 13:55   #13
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Originally Posted by Bodge View Post
Thank you Richard for the valve schematic, I can now wrap my head around how that thing works. The assembly is on there pretty tightly so it may have to go to Milpro for assistance. Any ideas on what a valve rebuild would cost?
Maybe give it a shot yourself first? Try wiggling the flywheel by hand. You might be able to get it to move. If it moves, you should be able to pull it free without tooling. Just remove the nut with a 10mm deep well socket. If the double-male threaded stud comes with the nut, you'll have to loctite it back in to the inner cup.

If you remove the circlip, you can pull the flywheel off and then you can see the tiny crevice between the inner & outer cup. Spray it with a little penetrating oil. Maybe hit the inner cup with a hot air gun on low heat then with some freeze spray or an ice cube to cool it down.

If you can't get it to budge, don't force it.
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Old 05 May 2016, 14:28   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by office888 View Post
Maybe give it a shot yourself first? Try wiggling the flywheel by hand. You might be able to get it to move. If it moves, you should be able to pull it free without tooling. Just remove the nut with a 10mm deep well socket. If the double-male threaded stud comes with the nut, you'll have to loctite it back in to the inner cup.

If you remove the circlip, you can pull the flywheel off and then you can see the tiny crevice between the inner & outer cup. Spray it with a little penetrating oil. Maybe hit the inner cup with a hot air gun on low heat then with some freeze spray or an ice cube to cool it down.

If you can't get it to budge, don't force it.
Ill give it a gentle go this evening and see how I make out. I suspect the valve has not been apart since 1970...
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Old 05 May 2016, 14:31   #15
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Ill give it a gentle go this evening and see how I make out. I suspect the valve has not been apart since 1970...
That would not be good. In saltwater, they should be cleaned & lubricated about every 3 months depending on use.

Evinrude Triple Guard grease is the specified grease for the application.
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Old 05 May 2016, 15:03   #16
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That would not be good. In saltwater, they should be cleaned & lubricated about every 3 months depending on use.

Evinrude Triple Guard grease is the specified grease for the application.
This boat has not seen hardly any use despite its age and could pass as a fairly new boat from 6 feet away. Hopefully the valves will cooperate this evening.

On another note....

The thrust board needs some attention and I am about to tackle that issue. I have the procedure worked out in stages and Im fairly confident it will work out. I have been told by Industrial Plastics (an all things plastic supplier) that their hypalon glue called Rainbow R 129 One part is suitable and appropriate for this repair.

I have always used Z Marine 2 part and am sceptical of the advice given. The only reason I am considering this glue is because it is easy for me to get locally.

Have you ever heard of this brand of glue?

http://rainbowindustrialproducts.wee..._adhesives.pdf

R 129 Glue is located on the second page of the link.
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Old 05 May 2016, 21:51   #17
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Over the years I've done a few transoms and thrust boards, I only use this:
Z7098

Cheers
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Old 05 May 2016, 22:00   #18
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Over the years I've done a few transoms and thrust boards, I only use this:
Z7098

Cheers
Looks familiar. Point taken.
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Old 05 May 2016, 23:01   #19
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Wow.... those valves came apart with no effort, way to easy. I'm sure I'll lose some parts to make up for it.....
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Old 05 May 2016, 23:25   #20
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Seems Zodiac does it a different way and at their retail prices it should be spectacular...
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