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Old 12 July 2012, 18:06   #1
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Complete Valve replacement on Aerotec 380

Hi chaps, a little bit of advice needed.

The valves have been leaking for the last couple of years, quite annoying as we need to stop every hour or so to top up. Last year i had the 'inner' valves professionally replaced at great expense but they still leak so its clear the whole unit needs replacing.

Been reading about the forums and have pieced together most of the things I need:

A7 valve assembly - Not original spec but I'm told these are robust and do the job.

PVC valve doublers - is the floor also made from PVC? Do A7 valves need a specific diameter doubler?

Some sort of glue to help seal the valve into the doubler (overkill?)

PVC adhesive - any particular brand/type?

Misc - scalpal, sandpaper, degreaser etc

Just wondering if anyone can give me any tips? Any better suggestions on parts to use/cheapest place to buy them?

Sorry for all of the questions. My local boat place quoted me 130 EACH to replace my valves + carriage would have been almost 700 in total, sod that!

Many thanks
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Old 12 July 2012, 18:36   #2
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That was a singularly impressive second post. Someone with a clue will be along shortly to advise...

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Old 13 July 2012, 12:31   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong View Post
Last year i had the 'inner' valves professionally replaced at great expense but they still leak so its clear the whole unit needs replacing.
No course through implied warranty or the like? Seems to me that if someone worked on the valves, they should work the way they're supposed to when all's said and done.


Quote:
PVC valve doublers - is the floor also made from PVC? Do A7 valves need a specific diameter doubler?
Big enough for a hole for the valve, with a couple of inches overlap to the tube material for gluing. The hole in the tube needs to be big enough to get the internal valve parts in (in case you hadn't figured that out already.)

Quote:
Some sort of glue to help seal the valve into the doubler (overkill?)
I'd say overkill. Maybe some silicone or polysulfide caulk if you're really anal, but the valve is designed to seal to the fabric as is.

Valve schematic here:
http://www.ribstore.co.uk/cms-assets...inflation-valv



Luck;

jky
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Old 14 July 2012, 11:11   #4
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Well I kinda assumed it was the 'inner' valve which was at fault and I simply asked his to replace them which he did. Considering the same place wants to charge me 130+ carriage per value to fully replace them, I wouldn't have wanted him to do any more anyway

Is there any reason to go for A7 valves rather than C7? The C7s are quite a bit cheaper.

Many thanks for the help
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Old 16 July 2012, 16:26   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong View Post

Is there any reason to go for A7 valves rather than C7? The C7s are quite a bit cheaper.

Many thanks for the help
I would use C7, the rubber seal and spring are contained in the outer part of the valve so are easier to clean/service/replace should you need to in the future
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