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Old 14 August 2013, 14:03   #51
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so why not remove the hand clamps and bolt the motor directly to the jack plate that has the least offset backwards that you can find ?.

I cannot see that 3 to 4" backwards is a problem in this case.
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Old 14 August 2013, 14:50   #52
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so why not remove the hand clamps and bolt the motor directly to the jack plate that has the least offset backwards that you can find ?.
Well I suppose I could take out screws but not C-clamps themselves. Later are integral part of motor mount. Guess could cut them off but that's a bit extreme toward brand new motor. C-clamps reach about 4" forward and 3" down from mounting surfaces. Even screws don't look to be setup for easy removal. Handle and the cup are held in with flaring of shaft (again drill out/cut-off)

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I cannot see that 3 to 4" backwards is a problem in this case.
Maybe but it's not a rib so shifting weight of motor back 4"+ will definitely change stress pattern on glued parts. May not matter don't know. Don't wan't to discover it was a bad idea somewhere far off-shore though.
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Old 29 August 2013, 20:43   #53
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My dealer expertly built up my transom 2 inches with a large black steel plate. I was very pleased with the look and finish.

Unfortunately,though the problem is a little bit better, as I accelerate from a plane, the bow still digs down and I get lots of spray from the sides of the boat and she bow-steers to the left and right. It's impossible to get the boat to go straight. So though it is a little bit better, it's still a huge problem.

Plus ... get this ... now my engine cavitates/ventilates just going in a straight line on a slow plane and immediately as I make the slightest turn.

So the motor has been raised so much that it's cavitating/ventilating, and the bow-steering problem is not solved, which tells me that this is an inherent design flaw in the boat and not due to transom-length/motor-shaft-length mismatch.

My dealer could take out the plate that was used to raised the top of the transom and place it an inch lower. That would probably get rid of the cavitation/ventilation, but to what end? The boat is no fun with the bow steering problem.

(And yes, the boat and keel are properly inflated, changing the trim pin position doesn't help, and there is no weight in the boat to distribute, to anybody who might want to bring those up again as possible explanations/solutions)
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Old 29 August 2013, 21:10   #54
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Hi Proyectile,

Sorry to read you still have severe tech issues with that boat/engine combo. Running lightly loaded or solo is probably what the sib doesn't like at all. Probably much confy fully loaded with max HP engine. Go boating with your dealer so to know that model seems to have too many flaw design issues.

Happy Boating
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Old 30 August 2013, 02:16   #55
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Unfortunately,though the problem is a little bit better, as I accelerate from a plane, the bow still digs down and I get lots of spray from the sides of the boat and she bow-steers to the left and right.

~ changing the trim pin position doesn't help, and there is no weight in the boat to distribute, to anybody who might want to bring those up again as possible explanations/solutions)
Every boat I have ever owned or driven that had adjustable trim made a dramatic effect on bow rise. With a motor heavily trimmed up the bow should fly high in the air. Do you have a new picture showing engine height of the cavitation plate to the bottom of the boat, and also a side picture showing the trim setting?
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Old 30 August 2013, 19:17   #56
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Peter_C,

Before I raised the motor, trimming the engine back would raise the bow out of the water when accelerating to a plane considerably. I needed much more throttle to get the bow to come down to a plane. But once it planed, the bow would still get pushed down as I accelerated beyond planing speed, and the engine would start to cavitate because it was trimmed so far back that the back end of the cav plate was at or above the water.

Since raising the motor, it cavitates in a straight line with the trim position all the way down. Trimming back will only make it cavitate *even more*.

I can send you a picture, but what it will show is that my cav plate is about 3/4 inch below the bottom of the transom trimmed all the way down.
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Old 30 August 2013, 19:21   #57
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Hi Proyectile,

Sorry to read you still have severe tech issues with that boat/engine combo. Running lightly loaded or solo is probably what the sib doesn't like at all. Probably much confy fully loaded with max HP engine. Go boating with your dealer so to know that model seems to have too many flaw design issues.

Happy Boating
Thanks, Loco.

I will not sell this boat to an unsuspecting buyer on the second hand market and pass this problem onto them. That would be the wrong thing to do.

I am hoping that Zodiac and/or Defender will help to to arrive at a solution.
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Old 31 August 2013, 03:47   #58
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Sounds like the full length of the keel of the boat is concave, making the water suck the boat down when at speed.
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Old 31 August 2013, 04:21   #59
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It's not a cavitation plate
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Old 31 August 2013, 04:30   #60
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It's not a cavitation plate

Just an "observer" on this thread but;

does it matter what people call it we all know "where it is and what it does"

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