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Old 11 August 2013, 15:42   #41
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Over on the Evinrude owner's forum, I've received posts from one of the moderators who is an Evinrude dealer that confirm that ETECs tend to have shafts that are up to or around 2 inches longer than the standard 15 inch length for short shaft and 20 inch length for long shaft. He's even posted photos of an ETEC 40 that had twisty clamps to secure the engine to the transom that were removed because that engine had to be bolted so much higher on the transom that they were useless.

As much as I love the way this ETEC 30 looks, weighs, and runs, this shaft length discrepancy is a real PITA. I specifically chose a smaller engine to be able to use those twisty clamps rather than bolting the engine to the transom (among other reasons, too).
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Old 13 August 2013, 23:20   #42
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Raised it a little over half an inch ... made a little bit of difference, but bow still plows in and bow steers as I accelerate beyond a slow plane. I guess I shouldn't have expected much since the cav plate was 3 inches below the transom to begin with...

There's a little over a quarter inch of potential engine raising to go before the clamps won't fit on the mounting plate. I doubt that will make *the* difference.

It looks like I'm going to have to bite the bullet and try bolting this engine to the transom, but what if that height isn't appropriate? D'you just keep drilling holes?
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Old 14 August 2013, 02:26   #43
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you can buy a height adjustable mounting plate that only needs one set of holes. cannot think exactly where I saw it advertized now.
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Old 14 August 2013, 03:58   #44
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Quote:
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bow still plows in and bow steers as I accelerate beyond a slow plane.
To me that sounds more like a trim issue. Let the engine trim "up" a little by have it move away from the stern of the boat. It will cause the bow to rise more too. Kept further under the boat trimmed in the bow will be forced down. There are many situations where bow down is good. Power trim is very nice to have but rare on small boats.

I believe the poster above is taking about jack plates.
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Old 14 August 2013, 10:35   #45
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This is about simpliest solution Mini Jacker
150lb weight limit though but you can still use clamps.

They have better options: Manual Jack Plates, CMC Manual Jack Plate, Manual Boat Jack Plates | T-H Marine but that's going to be bolt on. Although I don't see much problem bolting on piece of 1" plywood then using clamps.

I certainly have similar issue as projectile with my F470 I'm going to try one of the later.
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Old 14 August 2013, 11:58   #46
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Thats the ones i was thinking of in the second link. As they are fully adjustable only one set of holes in the transom are needed, after this it should be easy to set up the motor height.
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Old 14 August 2013, 12:03   #47
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Thanks, Peter_C, but I've tried all of the trim positions available. As I trim the engine away from the transom, the problem gets slightly better (but still horrible), and is then replaced by severe cavitation, so there must be more to it than that.
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Old 14 August 2013, 12:11   #48
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Thats the ones i was thinking of in the second link. As they are fully adjustable only one set of holes in the transom are needed, after this it should be easy to set up the motor height.
Been thinking about it more. On concern is with 18" transom motor need to be offset back quite ways 4"+ for sure otherwise clamps will rest of top transom. Not sure if it's such a good idea to push mount so far back. Will increase cantilever load considerably.
Back to drawing board.
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Old 14 August 2013, 12:32   #49
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The motor clamps will end up at least 1.1/2 " above the top of the transom, so only minimal offset backwards would be needed.
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Old 14 August 2013, 13:13   #50
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My cav plate is 3" below transom. Clamps center are about 2" below mount. Add for some material around it's prob about 3". So the practically be resting if not offset far enough. I wouldn't be able to move down if need to. Most of jack plates you can buy offset 4" or more back anyway.
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