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Old 16 October 2013, 16:56   #151
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they been together for awhile. Haven't they?
Does you keel extent all the way to transom? Could it be incorrectly positioned. I it removable? You should be able to feel it when inflated. If they managed to assemble something incorrectly once that may/will happen again.

Lay a 2x4 on floor. check how streight it is.
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Old 17 October 2013, 10:59   #152
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The working pressure should be stamped on the hull identification plate.
My PVC Futura says 3.4 psi.
Projectile, is your boat PVC or Hypalon?

And BTW, check your throttle linkage to be sure its opening all the way.
i went through several props wondering why my brand new motor wouldn't perform as I expected it to. Turns out my throttle linkage was incorrectly adjusted and was not fully opening.
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Old 18 October 2013, 20:46   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern Pike View Post
The working pressure should be stamped on the hull identification plate.
Seems that mine says 3.0 PSI. I don't know why the manual from Zodiac would say 2.5 PSI.

Either way, I aimed for 3.5 PSI after giving the boat 15 minutes to cool in the water, so the idea that my keel was under inflated remains implausible to me.
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Old 20 October 2013, 22:09   #154
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Here's what a hook in the hull can do, and a description of what I experience, too:

"The boat bow steers, quite severe in calm water, not so bad in a chop, white knuckle in following seas. Deadrise at transom is 22, at bow 56. Trimming out drives has no effect on trim, they will trim until props break free with no lift in bow."

This quote is from the link below, where photos of the hook in the hull are available. I'd say that they look similar to mine...

Bow steering help - Boat Design Forums
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Old 21 October 2013, 14:45   #155
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I understand your concerns with hook but I doubt that it is that much on an issue. On rigid hull boats not doubt soft floor inflatables...? What speeds are we talking about here? Unlike picture above where entire hull is compromised. Large chunk of planing surface is formed by tubes themselves. Unless they have incorrect shape I doubt relatively small cup at end of keel can have such dramatic effect.

Can you clarify boat/prop behavior after raiser been installed and motor placed at neutral trip position (3 hole at least?). I remember adding small wooden block didn't help but raiser is much higher. Did you try to run with 3 hole trim and riser? What happened? Any video of that?
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Old 21 October 2013, 16:43   #156
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"Large chunk of planing surface is formed by tubes themselves."

In response to this, I have say, "So what?"

Trim tabs create a hook, and the trim tab doesn't have to extend all the way across the back of the boat from port to starboard to have that effect, so I have no problem seeing how a hook that is primarily in the centre of where the fabric meets the bottom of the transom and that is at least 12 inches wide can't do exactly the same thing as a trim tab.

"Can you clarify boat/prop behavior after raiser been installed and motor placed at neutral trip position (3 hole at least?)."

Constant cavitation/ventilation as soon as the boat is planing and the bow down attitude is not eliminated. Before the engine was raised, when A/V plate was 3 inches below the bottom of the transom, I could trim out to 3rd hole without cavitation/ventilation and the boat would still bow-steer like crazy as I accelerated from planing speed. Back then. I had to trim out to 4th or 5th hole to get cavitation/ventilation, and even then, the boat would bow steer with acceleration from planing speed.

With the engine raised to "proper" height, I can only avoid cavitation in trim positions 1 or 2 closest to transom (inward most). Beyond that and cavitation/ventilation becomes unacceptable and bow is still too far down (though the bow down attitude is better than when the engine was sitting over 2 inches lower).
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Old 21 October 2013, 17:06   #157
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No amount of screwing with the engine height or trim, or with the prop size or pitch is going to solve a fundemental problem with the hull.

I think you need to go roll up your SIB and take a road trip to another dealer who has a clue. Go look at another hull, both how the floorboards are setup and how taut the floor material is. Compare with your own and try to come up with a solution.
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Old 21 October 2013, 17:27   #158
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I agree CapnJack. Unfortunately, this'll all have to wait for spring at this point. I am, however, dying to know right now. Oh well.

My dealer and Zodiac have been good so far. We have a sea trial reservation this spring.
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Old 21 October 2013, 19:27   #159
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Ahh bummer
I forget most of Canada is frozen or freezing over now.
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Old 21 October 2013, 19:57   #160
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Time to head south for vacation!
Anyway. One thing that caught my eye before is location of your self bailer.

Logically I would place its bottom edge at least inline with floor otherwise you boat will have standing water after getting swamped since not all of it will drain out. That's the way my F470 is (Let alone there is one below floor) It's inline.
Of few pictures I could find on net.

2005 Avon W465 | Boats & Yachts for sale | Used Boats and New Boats for sale

http://zodiacmilpro.com/wp-content/u...B-range-IT.pdf
Bailer opening appears more or less inline to floor.
If that rear retainer is too low floor will be out of parallel with tube's axis. I think that could cause tubes to take inverted hook sorta banana shape as they conform to rigid stringers. As result engine might be running too high in relation to keel line hence cavitation/ventilation or I suppose result maybe unpredictable. Maybe front will come down a bit since front panels don't have any rigid stringers connecting them.

I would lay a board across tubes and measure distance to floor at different points. See if they are parallel. And/or flip boat over to check for straightness.

Ask defender to send you picture of another work boat. Amazingly hard to find this stuff.
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