buying new zodiac

[smorefd]

New to this forum and the life of inflatables. In the process of purchasing a new futura hd mark 3, with a 50 yamaha, and trailer. Wondering if anyone has used or knows where to get an engine quick release set-up, for the once or twice a year I will have to transport this without the engine on it. Saw pictures of the quick release on the internet, but have not been able to find out much more info.

Thanks and looking forward to reading all the links

[Northern Pike]

Once or twice a year; slow release is sufficient.
I adjusted mine again today, down one hole. Old fashioned way: 4 bolts. Took 5 min.s
Are you in a hurry? :>)

[prairie tuber]

Zodiac's milpro division does make those QR brackets, but they"ll set you back at least $ 1500 CDN. I can see how the QR bracket might be critical if the 5 minutes it saves occurs during a tactical or emergency deployment. For other applications, $ 1500 seems rather spendy.

Here is a link that shows those brackets;

http://www.zodiacmilpro.com/product/...20sequence.pdf

[smorefd]

The reasoning behind looking at the quick release was a fellow boat owner was quite adamant that once you start removing the engine off and on over the years that moisture will begin to get into the bolt holes and damage the transom. I figured that with the bracket always left on the boat that might solve the problem.
I agree that the $15oo is rather steep, and the few minutes it takes the old fashion way will be the way to go.
thanks

[Delta 15]

I've been told you can dribble some oil (e.g. motor oil) into the bolt holes and that will protect the transom against water intrusion. After doing another repair, I happened to have some extra penetrating epoxy mixed up so I smeared that inside the holes with a Q-tip for the same result.

[prairie tuber]

Originally Posted by Delta 15

I've been told you can dribble some oil (e.g. motor oil) into the bolt holes and that will protect the transom against water intrusion. After doing another repair, I happened to have some extra penetrating epoxy mixed up so I smeared that inside the holes with a Q-tip for the same result.

I can't see how putting motor oil on plywood is going to do the plywood any favours.

What I've done to protect the transom at the bolt holes is this;

1. For each hole, get a pair of flanged brass nipples (from the plumbing section of Home Depot/Rona/wherever) with an internal diameter that matches the diameter of the bolts, and that have a length that is at least half of the thickness of the transom.

2. Carefully measure the thickness of the transom, then shave the length of the nipples down so that the total length of each nipple is 1/32" less than half the thickness of the transom.

3. If necessary, ream the nipples just enough so that the bolt can slide inside the nipples.

4. Mark the spots on the transom where the centers of the holes need to be.

5. Drill narrow (~ 1/8") pilot holes at those spots through the transom (***use a guide to ensure that the hole goes perpendicularly through the transom!!!)

6. Measure both the diameter and thickness of the flange of the nipple.

7. Drill a shallow impression of the same diameter & depth as the nipple flange at the surface of the pilot holes.

8. Drill through the previously made pilot holes with a bit that matches the outside diameter of the brass nipples.

9. Dab some 3M 5200 (permanent adhesive sealant) over the exterior of each nipple and tap the nipples into the holes on each side of the transom until the flanges sit flush to the transom. At this point, the 2 nipples in each hole should just about meet at the center of the transom hole (the gap between them should only be about 1/16").

You now have rust proof, fully sealed brass sleeves through the transom which you can slide the mounting bolts through countless times without any worry of damaging the transom. When you mount & dismount the motor, put a small amount of sealant (I like 3M 4200 for this) on the bolt to keep any water from coming through the sleeve.

[jyasaki]

I assume the motor is already mounted?

Use a good epoxy and thoroughly paint the inside of the bolt holes. Allow to cure, then file as needed to ream it out so the bolts fit. Re-install bolts. Done.

Ideally you should use 5200, 4200, or some other similar caulk/sealant to prevent water ingress around the nuts and bolts.

Should hold up to any amount of mounting/unmounting you care to do.

jky