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Old 18 January 2016, 06:55   #11
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Originally Posted by office888 View Post
In my unprofessional opinion, you could probably touch it up with PVC glue and get another 2-5 years out of it.

I will warn you though, when you go to reglue, the MEK used during the cleaning process and the solvent fumes given off by the glue will unglue more material. I will also recommend using some blocks and vice clamps to apply a lot of pressure to the material during curing...allow curing for 2-3 days.

I would budget a complete reglue within the next 1 to 5 years though.
I'm going to attempt the repair as soon as conditions allow.

From what I've collected from various posts, these are the steps:

- Sand transom wood and clean with MEK
- Remove old glue from pvc with MEK
- Prepare transom-wood with single part hypalon glue (let it cure ?)
- Wait for optimal conditions (temp/hum)
- glue transom and let cure in clamps for 3 days

Correct ?
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Old 18 January 2016, 08:18   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piotr View Post
I'm going to attempt the repair as soon as conditions allow.

From what I've collected from various posts, these are the steps:

- Sand transom wood and clean with MEK
- Remove old glue from pvc with MEK
- Prepare transom-wood with single part hypalon glue (let it cure ?)
- Wait for optimal conditions (temp/hum)
- glue transom and let cure in clamps for 3 days

Correct ?
Sounds like a plan.

I prefer diluted PVC glue for wood priming. Thin PVC glue 50% with MEK, then apply. Word of caution though, the mixture is EXTREMELY watery...about the consistency of vegetable oil. Do 3 coats with a 5 min flash in between, and let it cure. This will serve to soak in to the grain structure of the wood. The first 2 coats will almost completely "disappear", then the third coat will self-level. Then when you bond stuff, you're bonding to PVC glue that is well-chained in to the wood, rather than a hilly, porous surface where you would have gaps of glue that are bonded to voids in the wood (bonded to nothing actually!).

The material for the transom is a heavy coating of PVC with a 1200 decitex polyester weave. It is a little heavier than the usual PVC that the factory uses for most PVC stuff. I can be a little more difficult to bend and flex without wrinkles.

While you're gluing and have glue available, I would recommend inspecting all glued surfaces. If you can lift an edge and peel a surface back with only a few kg of force, the piece should be reglued.

I would suggest purchasing a minimum of 0.5L glue , 4L of MEK for this job.
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Old 18 January 2016, 08:21   #13
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Sounds like a plan.

The material for the transom is a heavy coating of PVC with a 1200 decitex polyester weave. It is a little heavier than the usual PVC that the factory uses for most PVC stuff. I can be a little more difficult to bend and flex without wrinkles.
See the pictures, to me it looks/feels like thin material. The parts in the picture are the only places where it has come loose, rest of the transom is solid.
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Old 18 January 2016, 08:39   #14
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See the pictures, to me it looks/feels like thin material. The parts in the picture are the only places where it has come loose, rest of the transom is solid.
The difference between the standard PVC and the "heavy duty" PVC that Zodiac uses is almost imperceptible to most. It is only a difference of a few grams per centimeter.
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Old 22 January 2016, 09:38   #15
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Going to order the glue this weekend, I guess Polymarine is ok ?
Just to be sure, the how-to on Polymarine website says "pvc glue does not stick to wood": Zodiac Dinghy Transom Repair | Polymarine Paints, Adhesives, Parts & Accessories

So, should I follow their advice or yours ;-)
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Old 22 January 2016, 09:51   #16
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Going to order the glue this weekend, I guess Polymarine is ok ?
Just to be sure, the how-to on Polymarine website says "pvc glue does not stick to wood": Zodiac Dinghy Transom Repair | Polymarine Paints, Adhesives, Parts & Accessories

So, should I follow their advice or yours ;-)
Your choice! I use Bostik Vinycol 1520 which is probably a completely different formulation... I don't like Polymarine, it is too thick in my opinion.
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Old 22 January 2016, 10:57   #17
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I'm going to chuck in a practical rather than by the book idea...

I guess the transom will have already been primed when the boat was made?? Assuming so why not just give the wood a very light fast wipe with cleaning solvent (MEK or whatever) so that the existing glue priming layer is retained and then glue to that??
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Old 22 January 2016, 11:13   #18
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I'm going to chuck in a practical rather than by the book idea...

I guess the transom will have already been primed when the boat was made?? Assuming so why not just give the wood a very light fast wipe with cleaning solvent (MEK or whatever) so that the existing glue priming layer is retained and then glue to that??
The primer used at the factory has a maximum coating interval of 0.5 hr - 8 hr.
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Old 22 January 2016, 11:31   #19
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OK understood... but might the MEK tend to re-activate it sufficient for a 2-3 year DIY repair?
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Old 22 January 2016, 11:38   #20
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OK understood... but might the MEK tend to re-activate it sufficient for a 2-3 year DIY repair?
My understanding of the factory primer is that it chemically crosslinks with the glue as it is applied.
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