Originally Posted by piotr
I'm going to attempt the repair as soon as conditions allow.
From what I've collected from various posts, these are the steps:
- Sand transom wood and clean with MEK
- Remove old glue from pvc with MEK
- Prepare transom-wood with single part hypalon glue (let it cure ?)
- Wait for optimal conditions (temp/hum)
- glue transom and let cure in clamps for 3 days
Sounds like a plan.
I prefer diluted PVC glue for wood priming. Thin PVC glue 50% with MEK, then apply. Word of caution though, the mixture is EXTREMELY watery...about the consistency of vegetable oil. Do 3 coats with a 5 min flash in between, and let it cure. This will serve to soak in to the grain structure of the wood. The first 2 coats will almost completely "disappear", then the third coat will self-level. Then when you bond stuff, you're bonding to PVC glue that is well-chained in to the wood, rather than a hilly, porous surface where you would have gaps of glue that are bonded to voids in the wood (bonded to nothing actually!).
The material for the transom is a heavy coating of PVC with a 1200 decitex polyester weave. It is a little heavier than the usual PVC that the factory uses for most PVC stuff. I can be a little more difficult to bend and flex without wrinkles.
While you're gluing and have glue available, I would recommend inspecting all glued surfaces. If you can lift an edge and peel a surface back with only a few kg of force, the piece should be reglued.
I would suggest purchasing a minimum of 0.5L glue , 4L of MEK for this job.