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Old 28 March 2016, 06:34   #21
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Originally Posted by Neil Harvey View Post
So, in the interests of balance... it seems like I missed something every time I have looked at seams until today. I realised I had not looked at a join on either side... as per the pic, this specific area is coming apart a bit on both sides; the pic shows the worse side. Will definitely need gluing back down, and maybe it's what Sean had meant.
No that wasn't what put me off, for me it was where the floor meets the tubes on the inside of the boat and the worst bit where floor meets transom on outside of boat. There's other minor bits all over but I agree very minor. It's in fantastic condition for age and with a proper reglue should last for years and years. I'd have probably preferred to buy it if someone had already done the work, assuming they do it right.
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Old 28 March 2016, 10:07   #22
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The factory used Bostik Vinycol 1520 for assembly. Per Bostik lab testing, the bond should require between 10 to 20 kg of force to unglue a 5cm section. If the bond lets go with less than 10 kg, then the glue is weak and should be redone. (20 daN / 5cm was the max after a 7 day cure, 10 daN / 5cm was the weakest after torture testing in boiling water or after time in a 70C oven).

Sikaflex will not affect the factory bond, but I do not recommend it. It is akin to spraying paint over a rusty frame that has lost 90% of the original metal...covering up the problem won't make the lack of strength go away.

If you can easily peel the joint away without a heating aid, then the joint should be reglued. If you reach a section where when you go to peel it, and it starts to tear the coating from the supporting fabric, then you have reached a well bonded section.

Some edge ungluing is normal. The factory uses solvent for cleanup and it tends to weaken the edges a little, but if the lack of strength is systemic, then the only option is to reglue.
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Old 28 March 2016, 10:51   #23
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Some edge ungluing is normal. The factory uses solvent for cleanup and it tends to weaken the edges a little, but if the lack of strength is systemic, then the only option is to reglue.
Thanks. i don't think it is that bad anywhere personally, mainly just some edges coming away. The bits I posted the pic of last night would take quite a bit of pulling to make them come away any more.

Re Sikaflex, I am not really thinking of it a a fix... just a something to go round the edges of the floor panels on the underside of the hull, to stop water forcing itself under the leading edge of the floor fabric; it'sreally well stuck down in most places imo.
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Old 28 March 2016, 10:59   #24
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Neil totally your call but are you against using proper glue? The job is neater, more original and if you sell on much more acceptable to a buyer???
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Old 28 March 2016, 11:04   #25
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Neil totally your call but are you against using proper glue? The job is neater, more original and if you sell on much more acceptable to a buyer???
Not at all for the proper repairs

As said, just thinking of the Sika as an additional security. It can be done very neatly, it's exactly how Biffer did my rubbing strake on the rib where it joins the tube; it simply gives something else water has to force out of the way before forcing itself between the floor and tube fabric
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Old 02 April 2016, 13:59   #26
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Congratulations. The only thing I generally use Sikaflex for is sealing surplus holes in the transom, sealing new bolts/fittings to the transom and the ply engine plate etc. But sometimes you find the tiniest bit of lift at the pvc to transom join (ie 1mm or less and I force a tint amount of Sika in there just to stop any ingress of water which *may* hasten problems years down the line?
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Old 02 April 2016, 15:06   #27
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Ok thanks Max. I was originally considering it to seal down some small lifts, but have MEK coming and have the 2 part. Still considering it for sealing some of the edges to help reduce chance of future lifting but probably won't.

Yes for transom fittings, of course.
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