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Old 11 July 2011, 07:43   #1
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Country: UK - England
Town: Marlow
Make: Bombard 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: 25hp Yamaha 2 stroke
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Bombard 380 - first day out and some questions?

First day out on Sunday. Went down to Poole harbor and conditions were ideal for a first run. Filled her up with the entire family, chilly bin for lunch and the obligatory buckets and spades. Went well overall but she would not get onto the plane and when you gave her some throttle the floor would push up at the back. I am presuming due to a lack of pressure in the floor. The standard foot pump seems completely inadequate as after over an hours pumping did not seem to make anything harder. On emptying out the water before getting her on the trailer I found a small line of bubbles coming out of the floor right on the middle of the seam between the two sections – seems to be the thinnest part. I think she has been run like this for a while as one of the floor straps has torn off the hull completely and the other (both at the rear) is coming off as well - signs of a very poor repair being undertaken. Motor went very well although not able to open it right up but didn’t miss a beat.

She seemed to take on quite a bit of water and on close inspection there is signs of silicone at the back where the transom meets the floor and hull but only on the port side. The elbow/circular (?) patch on the outside of the transom has defiantly come away and will be letting water in. A few repairs to make!

Few questions.
1. How would you repair the original seams? Would you remove the offending section/piece/patch and re-glue? Or put more on over the top?
2. I presume detecting leaks is a matter of using soapy water and looking for bubbles?
3. Would I use the same glue for re-attaching the floor toggle as I would for patching?
4. What solvent do I use to remove old glue?
5. Should I expect any ‘bending’ of the tube areas around the transom under throttle, or is this a lack of pressure as well?
6. I presume to detect water leaks you put water in the boat and look to see where it comes out?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 11 July 2011, 07:49   #2
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Country: UK - England
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For the pump (if it is not one of the ones with various positions for 'volume' and 'high pressure' get one of the double action stirrup pumps from a camping shop - under £10. With air floor SIBS the correct pressure is crucial - use a guage as this will really help get it right.

However, even with under-inflated tubes a 25 HP should literally fly along - how many adults on board? Weight distribution according to speed is essential on a SIB to get the most out of them but again a 25HP gives you more freedom with this...
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Old 11 July 2011, 08:37   #3
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Country: UK - England
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Make: Bombard 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: 25hp Yamaha 2 stroke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max... View Post
For the pump (if it is not one of the ones with various positions for 'volume' and 'high pressure' get one of the double action stirrup pumps from a camping shop - under £10. With air floor SIBS the correct pressure is crucial - use a guage as this will really help get it right.

However, even with under-inflated tubes a 25 HP should literally fly along - how many adults on board? Weight distribution according to speed is essential on a SIB to get the most out of them but again a 25HP gives you more freedom with this...
We had 2 adults and 3 kids. Total weight of the kids is about 50 kgs so equivalent to one man and two ladies. Had my wife and the smallest on the seat and the other two at the bow, fuel tank under the seat. As soon as I opened her up the back section just started to lift up into the boat so I backed off. Front seemed to get out of the water OK.
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Old 11 July 2011, 20:19   #4
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Country: UK - England
Town: Marlow
Make: Bombard 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: 25hp Yamaha 2 stroke
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 55
Did the soapy water test on the floor section tonight to find holes. Uncovered a few leaks on the lateral seams between the top and bottom sections which should be relatively easy to patch. Biggest nightmare is that there is air escaping from the stitching that holds the two sides together at the bow end of the floor. To boot there are some holes under the webbing that joins the sections on the top side! That is going to be a mighty challenge to fix!

Does anybody have experience of the inflatable boat sealant sold at the Rib Shop? All these holes are small and I thought after repair this may be a useful addition.
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Old 12 July 2011, 07:06   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet-Jester View Post
Did the soapy water test on the floor section tonight to find holes. Uncovered a few leaks on the lateral seams between the top and bottom sections which should be relatively easy to patch. Biggest nightmare is that there is air escaping from the stitching that holds the two sides together at the bow end of the floor. To boot there are some holes under the webbing that joins the sections on the top side! That is going to be a mighty challenge to fix!
Repairing the seam in the floor isn't the easiest of repairs but can be done.
Have a read through my thread below to see my take on it.
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/introdu...tec-40249.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet-Jester View Post
Does anybody have experience of the inflatable boat sealant sold at the Rib Shop? All these holes are small and I thought after repair this may be a useful addition.
General opinion is that it's not a good idea in airdecks, as it will glue together the cross fibres and the deck will be misshapen.
I was warned of this by the tech department of a US manufacturer of a similar product, one that is specifically formulated to allow deflation and packing up of the boat between use.

Nasher.
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Old 13 July 2011, 22:11   #6
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Country: UK - England
Make: Bombard Aerotec 380
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Ive had over 40 stone in my 380 and planed easily with the 25 2stroke on the back.

The 380 becomes a pig when the floor goes soft this is my only gripe with the sib.
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Old 07 March 2012, 13:40   #7
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Make: Osprey Viper 525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigscott View Post
Ive had over 40 stone in my 380 and planed easily with the 25 2stroke on the back.

The 380 becomes a pig when the floor goes soft this is my only gripe with the sib.
So, Level with us, was that just you on your 380 or was there someone else there with you
Sorry, couldn't help myself
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Old 07 March 2012, 17:41   #8
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Aha Im a porker but not that big lol 21 stone of the 40 was me the rest was my mate and fishing/diving gear
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Old 09 March 2012, 17:19   #9
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nice setup jester ! hope you get it sorted ...where abouts in poole is the photo taken ?
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Old 12 March 2012, 07:01   #10
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Derisher
Make: Bombard
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Engine: Yamaha 25 HP 2 strok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bingosucks View Post
nice setup jester ! hope you get it sorted ...where abouts in poole is the photo taken ?
Shell bay(also known as South Haven), just outside the harbour. The chain ferry is in the background.
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Old 12 October 2012, 11:46   #11
Gaz
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Country: UK - England
Town: Poole
Boat name: Spearfisher
Make: Bombard
Length: 3m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet-Jester View Post
First day out on Sunday. Went down to Poole harbor and conditions were ideal for a first run. Filled her up with the entire family, chilly bin for lunch and the obligatory buckets and spades. Went well overall but she would not get onto the plane and when you gave her some throttle the floor would push up at the back. I am presuming due to a lack of pressure in the floor. The standard foot pump seems completely inadequate as after over an hours pumping did not seem to make anything harder. On emptying out the water before getting her on the trailer I found a small line of bubbles coming out of the floor right on the middle of the seam between the two sections – seems to be the thinnest part. I think she has been run like this for a while as one of the floor straps has torn off the hull completely and the other (both at the rear) is coming off as well - signs of a very poor repair being undertaken. Motor went very well although not able to open it right up but didn’t miss a beat.

She seemed to take on quite a bit of water and on close inspection there is signs of silicone at the back where the transom meets the floor and hull but only on the port side. The elbow/circular (?) patch on the outside of the transom has defiantly come away and will be letting water in. A few repairs to make!

Few questions.
1. How would you repair the original seams? Would you remove the offending section/piece/patch and re-glue? Or put more on over the top?
2. I presume detecting leaks is a matter of using soapy water and looking for bubbles?
3. Would I use the same glue for re-attaching the floor toggle as I would for patching?
4. What solvent do I use to remove old glue?
5. Should I expect any ‘bending’ of the tube areas around the transom under throttle, or is this a lack of pressure as well?
6. I presume to detect water leaks you put water in the boat and look to see where it comes out?

Thanks in advance!

Go for the electric high pressure Bravo Pump mate - it will inflate you Aerotec right up to what you need. It really pushes that air in (in a way that you would never do yourself with a manual pump) and turns the boat absolutely rigid. To be honest, I sh*t myself every time I use the Bravo pump, as I'm always convinced it is going to explode my boat. I usually end up taking cover whilst the last bit of air goes in, just in case - but then the pump cuts off when it reaches the required pressure, and I emerge to find a rock hard, deep-v hulled boat that is almost as solid as a RIB.

I've just upgraded my engine to a 25hp 2 stroke, and put a cross bar steering kit and remotes on it, so now it really is just like a RIB.

In terms of weight ratios, pound for pound I think that this set up is probably difficult to beat (bit more tweaking, to stop the water from gushing in over the transom, when I'm going at max chat, and I should be fully sorted).

.

.
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Old 12 October 2012, 11:54   #12
Gaz
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Boat name: Spearfisher
Make: Bombard
Length: 3m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigscott View Post
Ive had over 40 stone in my 380 and planed easily with the 25 2stroke on the back.

The 380 becomes a pig when the floor goes soft this is my only gripe with the sib.


Scott,

You're the same Scott from DB, right?

Well, if you are indeed the same Scott, them I'm the same Gaz (D) from DB.

How you doing mate?

The guy that sold you that punctured floor needs thumping! That is the most essential part of the boat. When it's working properly the floor should stay hard for months. Mine takes a few weeks to soften up - although I suspect that it is leaking from the valves, so no big deal. But this doesn't matter anyway, as I always put a fresh blast in before I go on the water anyway.

The only snag I'm having at the moment is that water starts to wash into the boat, over the transom, when I am going at max speed, which means that I have to slow down for a while whilst it flushes out.

.
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Old 12 October 2012, 13:40   #13
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Country: UK - England
Town: macclessfield
Boat name: Reach Out
Make: Quicksilver
Length: 4m +
Engine: 30hp Tohatsu EFI
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 301
A few issues with this boat setup.

1\ Floor pressure leaks, floor must be inflated to rated pressure. Not a fan of these hp floors, but I guess they are light for bagging up.
2\ Water coming in from the transom, but more importantly not getting out again. Is the motor leg too low, and splashing back water? An auto bailer of trunk needed. ( bailers work best when planing)
3\ 25 hp not planing with just a few people in? 25hp should plane very easy with this amount of people in, is the prop pitch very extreme? If the prop pitch is right, then it should plane easily, or at feel as if it wants to fold the boat in half trying....

Lots of water in a sib floor will kill the performance, what looks like a few inches could be 100kg of water or much more........

Is motor correct length type, i.e. not too long shafted.
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