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Old 30 May 2013, 22:14   #11
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
Make: Ballistic 7.8/SR5.4
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Get a tiller. You'll never recoup the money for buying steering gear and remotes and you'll lose a lot of space.


Not sure about 'reasonable',but they are quite torquey. I think the 3.4 Zodiac hit about 20 knots in a flat calm, but the initial acceleration was more than I first expected..

They are ok if they run right, but there's all sorts of issues with older Mercs. The wiring decays, driveshafts seize to powerheads,impellers seize on, sometimes the driveshaft will corrode and frag the gearbox seals, and all the bolts are American sizes and threads. Don't be tempted to try using anything metric on it.

if it goes wrong, be VERY careful if you put a spanner anywhere near it. It'll be the devils own job not to shear every bolt/stud off.


If the gearbox is working, as long as there's no water in the gearbox oil it should be OK. Make sure you use proper Quicksilver gear oil in it though, and change the gearbox fill/vent washers every time you remove the screws
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Old 31 May 2013, 08:36   #12
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If you don't get a response from the Ebay seller give Bill Higham Marine a try, he has hundreds of tillers hanging round his work shop. Agree with above, not worth the effort or expense of fitting a steering wheel, stick with the tiller.
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Old 03 June 2013, 17:06   #13
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Cheers for all the very helpful advice. Have a tiller on the way so happy now! Quick update- did a quick compression check today on both cylinders, 153 psi on 1 and 148 ish on the other, which seems to be pretty good? Had a bit of a pain with the wiring though, one wire immediately snapped pretty much as I touched it, but I had been warned about this! I am going to see if I can find good wire if I trim back, and try and solder/heat shrink some replacement. Failing that, I have had some good info on a method of removing the resin from the switch box and replacing all the wires for new wire, so figure I'll have nothing to lose! Hopefully it won't come to it though.....

Anyone know if there is a free manual on the net for this engine, or is it all paid for copyrighted manuals only that exist? Is removing the gearbox completely away from the engine necessary, or is a oil change, carefully inspecting the oil removed, good enough? I still have an impeller change and a kill switch on the to do list.... Just need to wait for the tiller and fuel hose connection to check it will run first!
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Old 03 June 2013, 17:53   #14
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Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
Make: Ballistic 7.8/SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Opti 225/Yam 85
MMSI: 235090687/235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,645
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you need to remove the lower unit (ie , drop the gearbox) to change the impeller.

You don't need to dismantle the gearbox

Those compressions are VERY good for a motor that old. Nice one for getting a tiller that easily too
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Old 03 June 2013, 17:56   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2 View Post
you need to remove the lower unit (ie , drop the gearbox) to change the impeller.

You don't need to dismantle the gearbox

Those compressions are VERY good for a motor that old.
Excellent. That makes complete sense. Thanks for clearing that up nicely!

That's good to hear, I though they seemed pretty good.

Jake
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Old 03 June 2013, 17:59   #16
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Nice one for getting a tiller that easily too
I owe you big time for that, so thanks. Sent an email to the guy on eBay and he sorted me out. Called him and he was a REALLY knowledgeable and friendly chap- I feel it got it for a very fair price too.
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Old 03 June 2013, 18:02   #17
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
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No worries, I hope you have fun with it!


Ref the manual, I haven't seen a pdf manual for it anywhere. I'd have one if there was one available free
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Old 05 June 2013, 08:42   #18
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Quick update- a bit of further progress on this...

I have stripped the wiring and flywheel off, and gave the block a quick wire brush in the view to wack a bit of paint on to protect it. I need to do some minor repair work to the switch box loom- one wire has snapped which I will try and cut back/repair, and I'll check the state of the other wires and shrink wrap as necessary. I was going to attempt to remove the resin and solder all new wires on, but decided this is too risk and, at the the moment, not really necessary.

I have removed the lower gearbox unit and ordered a new impellor. The old one looked okay, but I'm taking no chances! The gearbox came away no problems and hardly has any surface rust on the shaft. No rust at all on the shaft as it meets the engine at the top, so that's a relief. The gearbox oil has been drained, and there appears to be zero water and zero bits of fine metal. New quiksilver oil on the way.

The tiller turned up today and looks a great fit, but has made me realise I need another part (the bit that joins from the square shaft in the engine, to the external tiller connection). Silly me!

Oh and I managed to get a manual for around 2.50 which I was happy with. Cover engines from 1965-1991 2hp-40hp. Bought from here:

1974 Mercury 200 20 hp 2 cyl Outboard Service Manual PDF Download


Thanks for all your help so far. I will try and upload pictures when finished.
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