Are my expectations too great ? - Page 5

Fenlander · 24 March 2016, 11:12

Oh the engine thing is mythical bull.

They put the chequered flag markings on this model and called it an XR10... just marketing fluff. On its data plate it will say output 9.9hp and that's what it is.

Sellers claims that they actually are 12/13/15hp (claimed figures I've heard) is a bit like saying it has 36kg weight on the data plate but actually it only weighs 30kg.

BTW in post #64 Max mentioned what to check on an old Aerotec. Remember don't just look you need to have a crafty go at peeling the glued joins all round the transom inside & out plus all the way around the floor/tube join inside & out. I know from experience a seam can look OK but start peeling and it's like the glue has been done with a pritt stick.

If you find this in one area look more carefully in others. Glued repairs are time consuming but DIY doable if you are a clean and methodical worker but they will always hold down resale value

I'd not want to pay over £1100 if there are glue issues.

Having said all that if it is sound and looks as tidy in the flesh as the images it could be an excellent buy.

jeffstevens763@g · 24 March 2016, 11:37

from memory they did a 13 hp yam de-tuned 15 hp for some reason for abroad i was told when trying to buy one from a dealer, yam used the same block for the 10, 13, 15 hp merc probably did the same.

Fenlander · 24 March 2016, 11:58

Yep the XR10 and 15hp Mercury models were to all intents identical apart from a reduced choke carb and perhaps a timing setting difference on the 10.

Here's my 15 in the foreground of my XR10.

Nick Hearne · 24 March 2016, 11:58

That looks a very good deal to me, I think you may be able to get the outboard up to 15hp as it is the same block as the 15hp I think!
Something you can do with the Yamaha 10hp.

Fenlander you beat me to it!!!

Fenlander · 24 March 2016, 12:28

Yes you can upgrade... the main thing needed is a replacement carb of the 15hp type.

But I think Sean already has his 25hp of the past few years he wants to continue with on any new SIB.... so he'd want to move this XR10 on if the outfit was bought.

Max... · 24 March 2016, 12:33

I'd snap it up Sean - as noted above the engine should sell easily and you've got an Aerotec for £500 odd that as you can tell by the demand on here should be easily saleable for a few hundred more if you find a newer one etc. But if after checking it all out it is good then stick with it.

The 10hp like the 9.9's was never the best idea in many respects as you suffer the weight and bulk but not the power of the larger variants. Hence the popularity and price for the legendary 9.8 Tohatsu.

jeffstevens763@g · 24 March 2016, 12:34

had a look at this OMO but i would snap it up its as new your saving £800 boat only you then have a nice 10 hp to sell and recover at least 50% of your outlay or as an option instead of the 25 hp you have. also with some gear thrown in. ok its 14 years old gurnard's got a 10 year old boat still going strong look at the use that has had over the years.at that price you cant go wrong if its not for you it will sell on easy.

cheers

SeanKent · 24 March 2016, 13:54

Thanks everyone.

Looking forward to going and buying this tomorrow, I'll more than likely just want to pass the engine on, so if theres people here interested, I'll keep you posted.

One question, the baffles on my current boat were blown when I bought it so never really known how a boat with working ones should inflate.

I guess if I fill the front section until it takes shape the two side tubes shouldn't inflate at all ?

Thanks again for everyones help.

Fenlander · 24 March 2016, 14:00

Yes that right re baffles. There is a small transfer of pressure to the adj chamber but only noticeable a bit... not even enough to half fill.

Fenlander · 24 March 2016, 16:40

Hmm perhaps not clear... no transfer of air just the expansion of the baffle cone in the direction on the uninflated chamber.

jeffstevens763@g · 24 March 2016, 20:00

The baffles should be pumped up to prevent over pressure on either side to keep the baffle neutral and prevent strain and keeping chambers separate for safety

beerbelly · 24 March 2016, 20:02

but don't fully inflate that section or you may blow a baffle

SeanKent · 25 March 2016, 13:50

I passed on the aerotec, could peel quite a few seems away with my finger nail, looked in good condition otherwise though but I really didn't want a project. Someone called Neil from the forum is on the case though, maybe it'll suit him better. Hopefully the next one though.

Max... · 25 March 2016, 13:57

Most of the boat is welded so should never come away but the issue with older SIBs is usually the transom/tube interface and mouldings - is this where it was? Could you just get your nail under a mm or so or did it actually peel back further?

SeanKent · 25 March 2016, 14:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max...

Most of the boat is welded so should never come away but the issue with older SIBs is usually the transom/tube interface and mouldings - is this where it was? Could you just get your nail under a mm or so or did it actually peel back further?

It was transom joins and floor to tubes, I could peel it back a way. If I'd tugged hard enough could have probably had transom separated in a few minutes. I didn't expect it to be perfect for that money but I wanted at least a few days out before starting to glue bits. It was probably still worth the money but I want to get on the water not spend my spare time glueing

Max... · 25 March 2016, 14:52

Oh, that's pretty bad.

office888 · 25 March 2016, 15:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeanKent

It was transom joins and floor to tubes, I could peel it back a way. If I'd tugged hard enough could have probably had transom separated in a few minutes. I didn't expect it to be perfect for that money but I wanted at least a few days out before starting to glue bits. It was probably still worth the money but I want to get on the water not spend my spare time glueing

It's about a 10 hour job to reglue the transom properly and about a 6-7 hour job to reglue the floor properly.

SeanKent · 25 March 2016, 16:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by office888

It's about a 10 hour job to reglue the transom properly and about a 6-7 hour job to reglue the floor properly.

Having not done it before, I wasn't keen to get involved, particularly as the guy was full of it (tried telling me the big black patches on the sides were as from factory). Made me wonder about the outboard which is where most of the value was and I'd have just wanted to out. Didn't want to get stuck with a duffer again. You Neil then?

office888 · 25 March 2016, 17:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeanKent

Having not done it before, I wasn't keen to get involved, particularly as the guy was full of it (tried telling me the big black patches on the sides were as from factory). Made me wonder about the outboard which is where most of the value was and I'd have just wanted to out. Didn't want to get stuck with a duffer again. You Neil then?

Nope, I'm in the United States.

I'm pretty okay at gluing, and I still wouldn't want to tackle that job. If it were $50 - $100 for the boat, maybe! Assuming there is absolutely no UV degradation, and nobody has glued on it after. I hate removing crappy gluejobs.

SeanKent · 25 March 2016, 17:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by office888

Nope, I'm in the United States.

I'm pretty okay at gluing, and I still wouldn't want to tackle that job. If it were $50 - $100 for the boat, maybe! Assuming there is absolutely no UV degradation, and nobody has glued on it after. I hate removing crappy gluejobs.

I had lined the guy up to get it really cheap if it needed glueing but someone else was on him this morning so he changed his mind. It wasn't really what I wanted anyway, hence I'd been trying to buy a new one. Hopefully a decent boat will come up. In the meantime may get the glue out for my old zodiac