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Old 24 March 2016, 16:00   #91
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The baffles should be pumped up to prevent over pressure on either side to keep the baffle neutral and prevent strain and keeping chambers separate for safety
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Old 24 March 2016, 16:02   #92
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but don't fully inflate that section or you may blow a baffle
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Old 25 March 2016, 09:50   #93
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I passed on the aerotec, could peel quite a few seems away with my finger nail, looked in good condition otherwise though but I really didn't want a project. Someone called Neil from the forum is on the case though, maybe it'll suit him better. Hopefully the next one though.
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Old 25 March 2016, 09:57   #94
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Most of the boat is welded so should never come away but the issue with older SIBs is usually the transom/tube interface and mouldings - is this where it was? Could you just get your nail under a mm or so or did it actually peel back further?
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Old 25 March 2016, 10:12   #95
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Most of the boat is welded so should never come away but the issue with older SIBs is usually the transom/tube interface and mouldings - is this where it was? Could you just get your nail under a mm or so or did it actually peel back further?
It was transom joins and floor to tubes, I could peel it back a way. If I'd tugged hard enough could have probably had transom separated in a few minutes. I didn't expect it to be perfect for that money but I wanted at least a few days out before starting to glue bits. It was probably still worth the money but I want to get on the water not spend my spare time glueing
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Old 25 March 2016, 10:52   #96
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Oh, that's pretty bad.
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Old 25 March 2016, 11:34   #97
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It was transom joins and floor to tubes, I could peel it back a way. If I'd tugged hard enough could have probably had transom separated in a few minutes. I didn't expect it to be perfect for that money but I wanted at least a few days out before starting to glue bits. It was probably still worth the money but I want to get on the water not spend my spare time glueing
It's about a 10 hour job to reglue the transom properly and about a 6-7 hour job to reglue the floor properly.
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Old 25 March 2016, 12:37   #98
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It's about a 10 hour job to reglue the transom properly and about a 6-7 hour job to reglue the floor properly.
Having not done it before, I wasn't keen to get involved, particularly as the guy was full of it (tried telling me the big black patches on the sides were as from factory). Made me wonder about the outboard which is where most of the value was and I'd have just wanted to out. Didn't want to get stuck with a duffer again. You Neil then?
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Old 25 March 2016, 13:14   #99
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Having not done it before, I wasn't keen to get involved, particularly as the guy was full of it (tried telling me the big black patches on the sides were as from factory). Made me wonder about the outboard which is where most of the value was and I'd have just wanted to out. Didn't want to get stuck with a duffer again. You Neil then?
Nope, I'm in the United States.

I'm pretty okay at gluing, and I still wouldn't want to tackle that job. If it were $50 - $100 for the boat, maybe! Assuming there is absolutely no UV degradation, and nobody has glued on it after. I hate removing crappy gluejobs.
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Old 25 March 2016, 13:20   #100
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Nope, I'm in the United States.

I'm pretty okay at gluing, and I still wouldn't want to tackle that job. If it were $50 - $100 for the boat, maybe! Assuming there is absolutely no UV degradation, and nobody has glued on it after. I hate removing crappy gluejobs.
I had lined the guy up to get it really cheap if it needed glueing but someone else was on him this morning so he changed his mind. It wasn't really what I wanted anyway, hence I'd been trying to buy a new one. Hopefully a decent boat will come up. In the meantime may get the glue out for my old zodiac
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