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Old 25 August 2010, 13:09   #1
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Country: UK - England
Town: Cheltenham
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mercury 50
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Anchoring to Wooden Floor

Hi,

Does anyone have a good way to anchor fuel tanks, etc, to a plywood floor? I don't want to put anything right through the wooden floor, in case it damages the material behind, so have been looking at things like pronged tee nuts - but I cannot find stainless ones for love nor money. I did get some BZP ones, but am trying to stick to A2 grade for all fixings (my OCD is getting the better of me ). But if anyone has used BZP and it's not rusted then I'll certainly consider it.

Any other ideas for fixings? I'd probably like to put a few anchor points in various places, as I imagine they would be useful for a variety of things (including keeping things secure when towing).

Any suggestions/pictures will be much appreciated!

Thanks
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Old 25 August 2010, 13:20   #2
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Country: UK - Wales
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Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
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What about using a countersunk machine screw from the underside of the deck to fix the tank straps with washers and domed nuts on top?
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Old 25 August 2010, 13:48   #3
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Northern Lite
Make: Tornado
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How about simply drilling/cutting a small hole in the floor, through which you could pass a rope or webbing straps to tie the tank down? That way, the only thing under the floor would be soft and wouldn't damage your inflatable.
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Old 25 August 2010, 14:36   #4
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Country: USA
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Make: zodiac futura mk2
Length: 4m +
Engine: Nissan 40 plus
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Posts: 217
I have installed stainless steel footmans loops on my wooden forward floor sections. I used a spade bit on the bottom to accomodate the bolt head and a washer and then filled with epoxy resin and fiberglass strands. Sand flush and you won't ever have wear issues under the floor. The ss footmans straps are very strong. They stick up a bit on the floor, but I haven't stubbed a toe on them... yet. The counter sunk bolt head method sounds good, but I tie down some heavy loads and I didn't want the bolt pulling through the flooring. Just one more option to consider. I looked at d ring mounting plates that could be screwed to the deck, but I knew they would rattle about when not in use.
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Old 25 August 2010, 15:25   #5
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Country: UK - England
Town: Cheltenham
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mercury 50
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 27
Thanks to you all who've replied.

I also want to get something non-moving and non-rattling, so will try the countersunk machine screws and dome-nuts combo, with these on the upper side:
http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;js...h_search=22320

I might err of the side of over countersinking the hole, and I like the idea of using epoxy resin to bring flush with the wood to save wear and tear on the material.

I will hopefully do this in the coming days and will post pictures if I remember!

Thanks again
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Old 25 August 2010, 15:42   #6
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Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 5,358
An M8 csk bolt, penny washer and eyenut would be easier.

Like this:

http://www.force4.co.uk/3593/Force-4...-Nut---M8.html

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Old 25 August 2010, 17:05   #7
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Country: UK - England
Town: Cheltenham
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mercury 50
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Good suggestion Downhilldai, I've just bought some off of fleabay for £1.20 each. Will get machine screws from screwfix and job's a good'un!
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Old 25 August 2010, 17:11   #8
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Country: UK - Wales
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Length: 5m +
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbojambo View Post
I've just bought some off of fleabay for £1.20 each.
Good price - got a link?
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Old 25 August 2010, 17:47   #9
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Country: UK - England
Town: Cheltenham
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mercury 50
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 27
Here you go:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M6-6mm-1-4-Mar...Accessories_SM

M6, rather than M8 - but for what I'm using it should be more than enough.
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Old 25 August 2010, 18:52   #10
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Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 5,358
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbojambo View Post
M6, rather than M8
Thanks, that explains the good price. Still decent value for M6 though.

Bear in mind the head of the screw will be smaller and have less purchase on the underside of the floorboard. If you're just holding down lightweight stuff, M6 should be ok.
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