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Old 03 September 2015, 16:15   #11
Country: UK - England
Town: Colchester
Make: Sunsport
Length: 3m +
Engine: 3.5 Mariner 4 stroke
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2
Sorry don't have any. But next time I'll take some and send to you. But basically I have some 12mm bungee roughly 10ft long and on each end I have a small 316 carrabiner and in the middle I have an eyed carrabiner that runs between the both of them. Both of these small carrabiners go through the front bow ring or handle and then clipped to the smaller D-rings on either side. The bouy is attached to the eyed carrabiner. The main anchor rope is then attached to the carrrabiner with a highmans hitch but instead of leaving the loop loose, I clip the carrabiner to this loop and then no way can this come loose. It is still a quick release knot.

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Old 07 September 2015, 10:22   #12
Country: UK - England
Town: Fleetwood
Make: Quicksilver
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yamaha 15hp 2 stroke
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 21
Thanks for the replies gents. Think I need to learn some different knots !!!!!!
Being new to inflatable boats I was unsure how much load the glued on bits would take hence the thoughts of reducing the shock on them.I have now got a few ways to consider that are proven by your good selves so thanks.

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Old 07 September 2015, 12:38   #13
Country: UK - England
Town: Lincolnshire
Boat name: Mousetrap
Make: Zodiac Cadet 310S
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mariner 4 stroke 9.9
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 78
The 2 D rings are designed to cope with the boat being towed, possibly at fairly high speed, maybe into the wind and sea. Subject to common sense limits, the D rings should stand up to anything - including anchoring in a heavy sea.

The plastic handle in the middle of the bow is designed to take light loads with no sudden shocks such as wheeling the boat around on shore.

When anchoring, a loop between the 2 D rings will halve the load on each and also tend to keep the boat facing the right way. Think of a standard bridle on a kite - a simple traditional kite usually has a triangular (2 legged) bridle between the line and the kite, for similar reasons.

If you anchor with plenty of line out, the line should hang down in a curve, partly under its own weight, and partly because of any current dragging on it. This curve in the line will then act as a shock absorber. Thus, the longer the anchor line, the softer the ride at anchor. Advice about how much line to use varies from about 4 times the depth of water to about 7 or 8 times the depth of water, depending on the weight of the boat, its windage, how rough the sea is and so on.

As for knots, when you look at them closely, they are often the same few moves in a slightly different context. For example, the common "round turn and 2 half hitches" is just passing the line twice around a post before tying a clove hitch around the line itself. An anchor bend is a round turn and two half hitches with the first part of the first half hitch going behind instead of in front. (You can't learn from this description, but I'm trying to say it's easy once you know how.) There are a few animated knot tying sites on the web.

Apart from anything else, tying knots is a satisfying skill.

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