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Old 08 August 2012, 11:02   #11
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Thanks, guys, this is the kind of help I was looking for. Are there any threads with pics which might show some of the stitching techniques.
I need to look into the liquid skin....that I hadn't heard of before.
Nasher, what do you mean by "introduce a zip"?
Do you all think it would be better to stitch the wound closed, apply a small patch (or liquid skin), and overlay a large patch....OR stitch and glue a small patch, followed by a large patch.

Also, I definitely don't want much if any glue to get inside the wound, so do I slip some waxed paper inside prior to the first patch glue down? Or should I use some patch material? I want to avoid glueing any of the cross fibers. Would a layer of liquid skin accomplish the same effect under the first reinforcing patch?

As usual, thanks for the discussion and experience!
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Old 08 August 2012, 11:57   #12
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Had same issue, somebody threw a small deployed anchor on top air deck and made 2 much smaller tears than yours, glued with 2 part pvc glue 0.9 mm gauge round patches, round holds better against fabric in time/use, 1 year latter holds 12 psi pressure as if never been damaged. And have not experienced any deck balloning surrounding damaged area as one would think might future happen.

Happy Sibbing
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Old 09 August 2012, 01:30   #13
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Peter, sorry didn't mean anything by my reply.

Nasher.
No worries you corrected me, which needed to be done. I did not take it wrong

After all I would say we both have the same goal of helping other people when we can.
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Old 10 September 2012, 17:38   #14
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Just, an update ( hate to leave threads not closed out properly). I finally got to the repair. I ordered the Weaver 2 part PVC glue. I have had really good luck with it in the past mounting of d-rings and accessories. I used one of the 5"(roughly) patches that came with the boat repair kit. I did use MEK and cleaned up the area well. I did back the tear with a piece of waxed paper to prevent glue from fouling the through threads beneath the skin.

The repair went well and I let it sit for 4 days and then just inflated to maybe a half pound. All looks good. I need to let it sit for 2 more days for the glue to reach max strength then I'll inflate to 11psi for a week. Then I'll close out the thread with a pic and either success or........?
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Old 11 September 2012, 10:37   #15
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When patch has finally glued well on top air deck, inflate to 11 psi and make a soapy test and check for any air leak, if any, you have done a perfect repairing job.

Happy Boating
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Old 11 September 2012, 11:28   #16
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Out of interest is it possible to remove a patch if the repair leaks?
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Old 11 September 2012, 12:29   #17
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Out of interest is it possible to remove a patch if the repair leaks?
Yes very easily actually. A heat gun will soften the glue, allowing the patch to be removed. Then the glue must be cleaned up with Acetone, or MEK.
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Old 11 September 2012, 16:09   #18
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I need to let it sit for 2 more days for the glue to reach max strength then I'll inflate to 11psi for a week.
Air floors tends to lose top pressure very fast, need to be continuosly top infated to 11-12 psi to perform as it's best when boating, will maintain top pressure with sun, will lose more on foggy days due to low temperature and atmospheric issues. Will have my doubt if will continue to be top inflated to 11 psi after such a long time specially indoors. Would be advisable to make a full soapy test to all air floor to determine if with unspotted tiny air leaks, include air valve.

Happy Sibbing
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Old 11 September 2012, 22:03   #19
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Air floors tends to lose top pressure very fast, need to be continuosly top infated to 11-12 psi to perform as it's best when boating, will maintain top pressure with sun, will lose more on foggy days due to low temperature and atmospheric issues. Will have my doubt if will continue to be top inflated to 11 psi after such a long time specially indoors. Would be advisable to make a full soapy test to all air floor to determine if with unspotted tiny air leaks, include air valve.

Happy Sibbing
Will do, thanks.
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Old 12 September 2012, 11:50   #20
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Thanks, to all. I believe it was successful. NO BUBBLES at my patch seam with 11.5 PSI in the deck.
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