Originally Posted by simonafloat
There is a good youtube video of an amateur reglue of a mkII. They have in my opinion done a stronger job than the original zodiac factory. I would be very interested to see your proceedure too.
One thing I wonder is how critical the temperature and humidity is when gluing. I.e. would an unheated garage be ok? Or do I need to convert my lounge to a glue shop
I know the video you're talking about.
The mechanical fastenings would not increase the strength. The ungluing would still happen... It would just help prevent the transom from falling off completely. It'd still be a huge water leak though, and the transom would probably rip away from the tube.
PVC has a longevity, so does the glue. When plastic ages, it releases oils which slowly destroy the glue. The MEK wiping step removes the excess oils.
High temperatures and high humidity overreact the glue... It can glaze over, which traps solvents. Then, when you lay the piece up, the glazing pops and the solvents are released. The solvents turn the glue back to goo, and the piece loses strength... This may cause a cohesive or adhesive failure.
Knowing when to lay your part up is the most important part of gluing, next to prep. Reactivation with solvent can help remove glazing and rewet glue that is overly dry, but due to its random nature, you can end up with uneven strength in the workpiece.
The easiest way to glue is to maintain around 23c with about 45% RH. This makes the curing and working time around 10 min consistently.