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Old 30 March 2016, 14:56   #21
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Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g View Post
i used one years ago to get a sib on the plane with three divers on board with success but how much top end we lost i dont know but that wasn't the issue so a result for us,
the one we had was a wrap around not two separate fins if they are still available with a slight mod you dont have to drill the cav plate with just a strap across the back if that makes sense.
i dont like drilling the cav plate as it shows you have been needing more out of the engine and its possibly had an hard life plus corrosion issuess.

just a thought if anyone is into making one a piece of HDPE with a slot in it for the cav plate slid on will work, start fairly large and keep cutting it down till you get the right size the slot can be made with a soldering iron to quite a good finish and the sides that are cut smoothed with a wood smoothing plane.
cheers
Although it would need the plate drilling you could make up an ally plate similar to these instead of doel fins:
https://www.permatrims.com/
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Old 30 March 2016, 16:05   #22
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It's interesting how the aerotec always needs a tramsom shim.

Neil how comes you wouldn't use your 25 on the aerotec ?
It's a long shaft :-(
I toyed with the idea of making a large enough extension plate to raise it about 6.5", but was advised against it. I am now wondering if using a long shaft might work, the prop would be that much lower maybe the splash issue would disappear. But, it's likely to impact balance of the boat, with the power being that much lower down... May still give it a go though, I got the 25 service finished today so it is pumping water again after years of no use, I attached the tiller again so I can now control it, and "just" need to wire in a kill cord to make it safe.
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Old 30 March 2016, 16:31   #23
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Hmm all this messing around with engine height does put me off a bit.

If I do manage to get an aerotec, I'll be looking to pick brains on here as to best way to deal with the splash.
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Old 30 March 2016, 16:32   #24
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It's a long shaft :-(
I toyed with the idea of making a large enough extension plate to raise it about 6.5", but was advised against it. I am now wondering if using a long shaft might work, the prop would be that much lower maybe the splash issue would disappear. But, it's likely to impact balance of the boat, with the power being that much lower down... May still give it a go though, I got the 25 service finished today so it is pumping water again after years of no use, I attached the tiller again so I can now control it, and "just" need to wire in a kill cord to make it safe.
Can't you change the leg?
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Old 30 March 2016, 16:45   #25
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Can't you change the leg?
Probably, but not sure it's worthwhile on an early 80's engine...
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Old 30 March 2016, 17:07   #26
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Hmm all this messing around with engine height does put me off a bit.

If I do manage to get an aerotec, I'll be looking to pick brains on here as to best way to deal with the splash.
Hi Sean

I've had a 15hp mercury and a 25hp tohatsu on mine and they both required different shim heights but both totally acceptable after I raised the outboard.
I know it may sound a pain but I wouldn't let it put you off owning one.
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Old 31 March 2016, 03:03   #27
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Although it would need the plate drilling you could make up an ally plate similar to these instead of doel fins:
https://www.permatrims.com/
thats the sort of thing i was suggesting made from hdpe sheet made tight enough to be slid on from the front of the motor cost would be less then a tenner bit of shaping and a slot for the cav plate cut in with a soldering iron or hot rope knife no drilling just a tight fit
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Old 01 April 2016, 06:37   #28
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I have reservations whether something similar without fixings & just relying on a tight fit would stay on for long as there is a fair amount of lift - certainly comes onto & stays on plane at lower speed than without.
Below the plate I can see a risk of prop contact should it work loose.
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Old 01 April 2016, 07:14   #29
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I have reservations whether something similar without fixings & just relying on a tight fit would stay on for long as there is a fair amount of lift - certainly comes onto & stays on plane at lower speed than without.
Below the plate I can see a risk of prop contact should it work loose.
how can it come off you make the grove deep enough so it cant twist so minimal gap between each side as near to the main leg as possible, its pushed on from the front the way of travel at speed pushing it on [horse shoe shape] nothing to stop putting a captivation across at the back for added security. it could be made in two parts and bolted together and if HDPE is used cheep enough to have a few try's. you could also sikaflex the gap and glue on loads of options.

cheers
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Old 01 April 2016, 13:11   #30
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