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Old 23 June 2015, 21:37   #1
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Aerotec patching/glue advice.

I've now had a chance to carefully examine my recent 1998 Aerotec purchase. Thankfully all as expected give or take but some intermediate repairs needed before it comes on holiday in 3wks.

Images attached of each job.

1: Just on top side of the taper to the cones there were two crudely applied davit patches. These were white and obviously Hypalon with gungy glue. Max PMd advice to remove with acetone and a blunt scraper but they were so poorly applied they came off with a constant pull and easing from behind with a plastic scraper. So what should I use to get off the glue residue (unknown glue used to stick Hypalon to PVC) without badly marking the tubes. There is no need to re-apply anything here as long as I can make it look tidy.

2a: Towards the bow just under the rubbing strake there is a large patch perhaps 8" x 6" looking as if it covers another smaller patch about 6" x 4". The outer patch is well applied for strength (impossible to lift edges up with scraper) but has a couple of small bubbles (they are not air from the tubes but trapped air from the patch application). For now I'd just like to clean off the brown overglue stain around the patch. I wonder what would do this the best?

2b: In time I'd like to remove the patch to see what it covers then replace with a neater one that follows the seam and rubbing strake better so it's less noticeable. Any advice on removing this well stuck down patch?

3: Having thought it was holding air OK after several days inflated in our garden I found one main tube was losing a little. Valve was OK so soaped all the tube to find a small bubble from the "scratch" highlighted with black pen. This looks a very simple repair in an easy to access place but could someone point me to the best patching PVC guide on the net. Also where to get the material that will match the grey Aerotec and glues plus solvent etc.

4: Re patching in general any good ideas for cutting absolutely round patches from sheet repair PVC?

Thanks.
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Old 23 June 2015, 21:44   #2
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That's horrible patching but should clean up ok. Gentle setting on hot air gun combined with Acetone (gentler than MEK) and fine Scothbrite pad will remove the old glue. Combine the same with a rounded blunt scraper to remove any well fixed patches. Add a big dose of patience and go slow and gentle.

I bought all my stuff (glue and pvc) from one of the big RIB shops on ebay, just search for pvc glue kit or similar in the boaty section.

Either cut with scissors having drawn round a glass etc or place PVC on bench pressing down on same round template item hard and cut round with brand new Stanley.

http://www.ribstore.co.uk/cms-assets...-boat-dinghy-a
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Old 23 June 2015, 22:02   #3
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Thanks Max. Despite the many SIBs we've owned going back to 40yrs old Hypalons I've only ever used the one part adhesive in the kit with a new SIB to glue down a 2" length by 0.25" wide edge of rubbing strake that was never glued from new.

So this Aerotec will provide a bit of... ahem... practice.
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Old 23 June 2015, 22:11   #4
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Ahh , it's a doddle really, just a case of reading the guides, correct materials (2 part glue), waiting for the right weather (warm, no humidity) and prep, prep, prep. Masking tape to protect surrounding area, clean with acetone, apply two layers glue really thin as per guide and stick right place first time. If the glue goes off or you get patch wonky use the hot air gun to allow removal/repositioning. A brush over with solvent will reactivate the glue. Good guides on YT too.
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Old 23 June 2015, 22:24   #5
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What sort of shop would sell acetone locally? Ribshop only do MEK... does that tend to melt the PVC top surface??
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Old 24 June 2015, 06:34   #6
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Mek is stronger yes, and risks damage to the surface when scrubbing with Scotchbrite, Acetone will work fine. I get if from a local hairdressing wholesaler. Make sure it is 100% pure Acetone.

Or like most stuff, eBay:

acetone pure | eBay
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Old 24 June 2015, 07:28   #7
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OK. I've just asked Ribstore if they can send a tiny sample of their mid and light grey to make sure I get the best match.

It looks like "pure" acetone can often be 99.5%... is that good enough?

The town hairdressing suppliers are only 15mins away so I think I'll get 5l from there.... do you get through loads cleaning off or is that far too much?
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Old 24 June 2015, 08:09   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
OK. I've just asked Ribstore if they can send a tiny sample of their mid and light grey to make sure I get the best match.

It looks like "pure" acetone can often be 99.5%... is that good enough?

The town hairdressing suppliers are only 15mins away so I think I'll get 5l from there.... do you get through loads cleaning off or is that far too much?
I think they all generally say that as they cannot guarantee (unless presumably it is chemical engineering grade or whatever) it is technically 100% pure, you just need to avoid the more beauty industry stuff with added oils, colours, perfumes etc.

1 litre should be far more than enough I'm sure but it's a handy solvent to have anyway.
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Old 24 June 2015, 09:08   #9
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OK understood. All on hold for 24hrs now until the Ribshop material colour samples arrive.
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Old 24 June 2015, 17:55   #10
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If you need it urgently, most chemists sell acetone but only in small bottles and at retail prices.

Its one of those solvents that I seem to keep finding jobs for, currently got a 3 or 4 litre a year habit
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Old 24 June 2015, 21:27   #11
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Yep even our hairdresser's trade outlet wanted silly money and most of their stock had pink or lilac dye added. So went on Ebay and bought 5l of pure for about £15 inc delivery.

Now the excess glue can start to be removed from the sound old patches asap and I'll get on with the new patches as stage 2.
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Old 25 June 2015, 16:06   #12
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Acetone and scotch pads here now. Do you have to wash off the acetone with squeezy and water after using it to clean glue excess off... or can it just evap off and be left?
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Old 25 June 2015, 17:29   #13
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It will evaporate. Probably quicker than you'd like.

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Old 25 June 2015, 23:30   #14
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>>> It will evaporate. Probably quicker than you'd like.


Ahh I see what you mean... it only stays as a fluid just long enough to clean and then it's gone.

Well the first job started to tidy this SIB... tidying up the shoddily applied davit ring glue residue. Used Dunelm white "non-scratch" scourer pads and Tesco dishcloths with the acetone and it made a nice job of removing the messy glue where I pulled the dodgy patch away.

Material samples arrived from Ribstore and now know the Aerotec is medium grey in their range... just about to order the repair kit to do/redo a few small patches.
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Old 26 June 2015, 06:14   #15
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Improvement.
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Old 27 June 2015, 19:10   #16
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Continuing snippets in the Aerotec tidy, warts and all...

Next small job was to clean the air floor panels. They were nearly as grey as the tubes with ground in sandy brown patches. Jiff and squeezy didn't help a great deal but a cautious go with acetone gave a great result. I don't have a before pic sadly but trust me they've gone from ghastly to acceptable.

One odd thing (see closeup) is that the floor panel bridging PVC seems to be a replacement. The glue is a little untidy and the way the material is edged looks different to others I've seen. But it's strongly attached so I'll not worry about it.
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Old 27 June 2015, 19:26   #17
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I've just spotted this thread guys. So far so very impressive. Word of warning - having had a big chat with my local SIB/liferaft service guy (a man I have the utmost respect for) I will repeat his warning to me:

"Keep MEK the hell way from glued cheap PVC SIBs*"

He was VERY reluctant to let me have some to prep a patch on the Quicksilver. According to him, if a glued seam gets so much as a wipe of MEK, the damage is done and sooner rather than later, it's Sayonara seam time.

*Quicksilver were described as cheap Chinese crap, so go figure. He says they all come out of the same factories....
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Old 27 June 2015, 20:46   #18
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Looks like a great project.

Have you seen this thread?
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/introdu...tec-40249.html

We went through a similar refurbishment on a 380 a few years ago.

Nasher.
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Old 28 June 2015, 08:06   #19
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Nasher... yes I've read that (inspirational) thread a couple of times. Being a plain Jane grey I don't think mine will ever look as good as your finished job but sound and useable is all I'm aiming at.

Wilk... Max mentioned in a PM that acetone was less harsh than MEK which is why I went for acetone. Even so I've been very careful not to let it soak as a runny liquid into any seams... just a wipe over with a barely soaked rag in areas where I'm trying to clean up some excess glue.
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Old 29 June 2015, 10:06   #20
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Oh well no excuses not to get on with the small repairs.

Fantastic friendly & helpful advice from RibStore plus quick delivery so I have the glue and material now. Weather in eastern England over the next few days looks as good as you could hope for in the UK for glued repairs and then it's only 10days to sibbing hols so got to get on with it.

If anyone has links to what they'd consider the very best guide to patching PVC inflatables be pleased to have a look.
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