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Old 29 June 2015, 06:33   #21
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Weather is as good as it could be in the UK for sure!

Reasonable guide here but lots of others linked in previous repair topics.

http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/INFO/INFOGLUE.html

http://www.polymarine.com/advice/pvc...om-pvc-fabric/

http://www.ribstore.co.uk/cms-assets...-boat-dinghy-a



A couple of tips:

Surround repair area to about 5mm or so with masking tape to protect from excess glue clean up.

No need to sand PVC, just scrub with Scotchbrite and Acetone.

Make sure glue has gone off OK, *maybe* slightly longer than the knuckle test in this video, a heat gun will help reactivate the glue if you leave it a bit too long.

Use a heavy spoon or similar to press from the centre outwards.

Clean up immediately with a lightly damped acetone rag, 'away' from the patch edge.
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Old 29 June 2015, 08:49   #22
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Many thanks.

I see some guides say not to do in full sun. Ideally I would leave the boat where it is in the back garden to glue but the sun is out 50% of the time now. Shade could be organised but more faff. Wonder how important that aspect is?

Secondly and this is a serious query... for a small leak/patch on a tube I wonder if you leave enough pressure to keep it to shape or glue totally deflated?
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Old 29 June 2015, 08:53   #23
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Quote:
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Secondly and this is a serious query... for a small leak/patch on a tube I wonder if you leave enough pressure to keep it to shape or glue totally deflated?
You cannot glue over a hole if air is coming out of the hole...

I did mine deflated and with something behind (ie wooden board) to press against.
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Old 29 June 2015, 09:43   #24
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>>>You cannot glue over a hole if air is coming out of the hole...

I know what you mean but back in my club cycling days the old timers would repair their punctures with inner tubes pumped up enough to form their shape. The contact adhesive always immediately overcame minimal pressure.

But I will let the Aerotec down!
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Old 29 June 2015, 15:06   #25
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Well I'm dealing with a manageable section at a time so today it was "the underneath".

If you are of nervous disposition don't look at the images further!

Post-it notes on all the areas I'll be putting a patch in one image!

Another image shows the typical floor defect I'm patching... not much bigger dia than the thickness of a broad marker pen. Of the tube places I've marked only one is the small leak. The others are small rock nicks in the outer layer of the PVC where the fabric is exposed... areas no bigger than the end of a little finger.

Third image is the floor patches cut and edges masked. Gluing tomorrow when the heat comes up at lunchtime.
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Old 29 June 2015, 16:25   #26
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As that is just the floor fabric and not a pressure bearing chamber it might be worth just using a dab of Stormseal or Sikaflex on the minor holes/abrasions?
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Old 29 June 2015, 19:08   #27
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That's a fair point Max but I wanted every repair however small I did on this Aerotec to be as close to by the book as possible... so that if it ever needed a complete transom or floor edge re-glue in the future it was worth doing as the rest was up to scratch.

I must admit the bits I've done so far are confidence inspiring with regards to buying a boat that needs repair or may need repair in the future. In the past I'd been very wary of anything that needed or threatened to need repairs

I've also found out it's loads harder to clean up and re-do a poorly made repair than be the one doing it properly first time. Cleaning up gungy glue that extends well beyond old patch edges is a pain.

It would be interesting to know... following on from what office888 said in the other thread about Zodiac's increasing use of PVC welding over the years... if the Aerotecs used more welding in their construction as they got newer.

As far as I can see on this 1998 one the only thing welded is the tubes but apart from that everything including transom, floor and even the HP air floor panel seams are glued.

Is yours around a 2006? Do you reckon any seams are welded on that which are glued on mine?
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Old 30 June 2015, 03:00   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
...but I wanted every repair however small I did on this Aerotec to be as close to by the book as possible... so that if it ever needed a complete transom or floor edge re-glue in the future it was worth doing as the rest was up to scratch.
Only concern was it might have a bit of a patchwork quilt look! Black Sikaflex will be virtually invisible and easy to smooth over very minor abrasions with it. Stormseal is clear and works well for tiny nicks.

I'll check my 2006 but yes I think only the tubes are welded, I think the inner floor middle panel is welded but the outer floor to tubes join is glued.
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Old 30 June 2015, 03:44   #29
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>>>Only concern was it might have a bit of a patchwork quilt look!

Yes to a degree but this Aerotec will never have a high value and when (if) I sell it on it will be as a well used workmanlike example that will give someone else the chance to experience one well under the usual prices.
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Old 30 June 2015, 18:14   #30
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Well all the floor and tube underside patches are done. It was easier to leave it inflated to do the floor fabric patches plus the underside tube scuffs that weren't actually leaking.

For the small weep on one tube (the only pressure leak the boat had) I did let the tube down and as Max said put a flat block of wood under the tube so I could press the patch down and weight it overnight.

I wanted to be absolutely precise with the glue-hardener mix so cadged some medicine dose pots from the village chemist which were graduated in ml and drew the hardener into a small syringe which was also marked in ml.

I was surprised just how far a 50ml mix of glue went.

I bought a dozen cheap brushes on Ebay for about 3 for gluing so they could just be used once and chucked.

The underside may be peppered with small patches now but at least that part of the job will never need doing again. Actually the guy who sold it to me made a fair point... he said he didn't really mind patches below the rubbing strake but tried to avoid unsightly ones topsides.
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