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Old 09 October 2016, 15:27   #11
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Hi Steve, yes I'd be very interested to see how that turns out - I've looked at a variety of countersunk stainless set screws from ebay, plastic encased threaded fittings, like knobs for under the seat, and figures it would be much cheaper than the Zodiac screw set. It would be pretty simple to re enforce the PVC on the tube so the screws don't chafe as seems to happen. I figures the eva foam found on excercise floor mats and kneeling pads would be fine for the top of the plywood seat, so all in all not too difficult to do.
One I've been out a couple of times I can decide if a seat further back would be more useful than the current position. I hadn't spotted the slight taper on the seat till I looked more closely so as you say, better to make a one specific to the position. I only really intended to use one or the other.
Looking at your avatar pic, you have a similar mod to the one mine has, with oar pivots on top of the tube - do yours stow inside the grab strip/handles or outside?
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Old 09 October 2016, 15:56   #12
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Hi Sailpower
I cut a section out of my grab rail and fitted Avon type rowlocks. I have some fairly substantial wooden oars that I use that stow on the outside of the grab rail with re-usable cable ties.
Do you use or plan to use the oars regularly? If not and for emergencies only then you could use them with a bit of strap or rope tied to the grab rail to keep them in place.

I'm going to do the same as you suggest and find some countersunk stainless bolts instead of the very expensive bombard ones.
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Old 12 October 2016, 17:31   #13
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When I purchased our aerotec second hand about 4 years ago it came with out a seat,,,, not a problem. Some ply 1 inch thick or 2 x1/2 inch glued together,,, bolts are about 35/40mm m10s or 12s counter sunk with a 5 or 6mm allen key fixing, washer and nylock nut on the under side. All in stainless for about 3.00. With using the nut I have to use a spanner which takes a little longer,,,,, but it does not catch or rub the tubes.
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Old 13 October 2016, 01:08   #14
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Spot on Big Al C, I'm looking at similar for my fixings.
As I'm fitting a second seat and want to copy the original I've had to buy pvc and glue and eyelets which has put the price up and I'm having trouble trying to source some decent foam for the seat. I bought a black camping mat to cut up which said heavy duty from the description but when it arrived it's too soft and won't last 5 mins. I'm now looking at mechanic mats to cut up but they are not cheap.
Can anyone recommend some decent black foam between 10-20mm to finish off the seat? Cheers.
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Old 21 October 2016, 14:26   #15
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Ok so, i bought pvc, glue and eyelets to make the seat flanges as wanted to copy the original.

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Then bought some oak board, black spray paint, countersunk ss bolts and some 10mm exercise mat for the padding to make the seat.

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Ive not used it in anger yet but it appears to be holding up fine.

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Also bought some tfr for the dirty tubes :-)
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Old 25 October 2016, 04:23   #16
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That's a really neat job... well done.

And... err... yes... the tubes do need a clean!
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Old 25 October 2016, 08:57   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevem View Post
Spot on Big Al C, I'm looking at similar for my fixings.
As I'm fitting a second seat and want to copy the original I've had to buy pvc and glue and eyelets which has put the price up and I'm having trouble trying to source some decent foam for the seat. I bought a black camping mat to cut up which said heavy duty from the description but when it arrived it's too soft and won't last 5 mins. I'm now looking at mechanic mats to cut up but they are not cheap.
Can anyone recommend some decent black foam between 10-20mm to finish off the seat? Cheers.
halfords sell interlocking floor mats 10 mm thick which would do, solid no holes about a tenner for 6 mats & edges or if you want holes seaflow do them iv'e done my floor in them 24sq ft 16.85 you could do the floor and use the off cuts for the seat reason for the holes for me is to trap dirt so i can hoover clean save getting under the deck and rubing
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Old 25 October 2016, 09:20   #18
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That's a really neat job... well done.

And... err... yes... the tubes do need a clean!
I know, I know. I've had the TFR for a while now but been a bit wary of using it. Going to dilute 50:50 then use loads of water afterwards I think.
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Old 25 October 2016, 09:24   #19
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halfords sell interlocking floor mats 10 mm thick which would do, solid no holes about a tenner for 6 mats & edges or if you want holes seaflow do them iv'e done my floor in them 24sq ft 16.85 you could do the floor and use the off cuts for the seat reason for the holes for me is to trap dirt so i can hoover clean save getting under the deck and rubing
Cheers Jeff, I did look at those but didn't think they were long enough without a join. Bought an excercise mat from Decathlon for about 10 and it did both seats to the edge so they match.
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