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Old 03 March 2019, 15:14   #31
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Country: UK - Scotland
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I don't bother bidding on eBay. If I want something then I'll put my one and only bid 5 seconds before the end. Anything else is just inflating the final price I may have to pay
You have a point about commercial 2 strokes. If a new one costs 2200 and a 15 years old costs 1400, why not go for the new one? Are these 'commercial' outboards similar to normal 2 strokes from 10 years ago?
The engines are exactly the same. You can't buy them though unless you can prove you're using it commercially, so company address, VAT registration, etc.

I know what you mean about bidding early, but in my experience it's easy to lose out towards the end of an auction when it all gets a bit daft. It's easily worth more than 1k, and chances are it'll sit at that price for the next couple of days. Don't worry about age. I sold a 1986 Yamaha 25hp 2-stroke a few years back for 500 strapped to a pallet. It's worth what folk will pay.

Work out a figure you'd be happy to pay and submit it. If you win, the great. If not - what have you lost? There's not many bargains to be had these days, engine wise. You pay your money and make your choice.
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Is that with or without VAT?
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Old 04 March 2019, 00:46   #32
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Originally Posted by spartacus View Post
The engines are exactly the same. You can't buy them though unless you can prove you're using it commercially, so company address, VAT registration, etc.
I am thinking of adding a mobile scratch repair arm to my body shop for the local marina I have seen new tohatsu 9.9 would do nicely ( I cant be held responsible if I don't get any business )
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Old 10 March 2019, 08:34   #33
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Tohatsu 2 stroke 18hp is an amazing engine for the aerotec. It's what I used on mine. Weight is the same as the 15, so very manageable. They don't come up all that often though.
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Old 10 March 2019, 15:27   #34
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Country: UK - England
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Send a message via MSN to badbaws
I have a 2006 2 stroke 15hp Mercury short shaft for sale for 995..
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Old Today, 06:52   #35
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Country: UK - England
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Originally Posted by badbaws View Post
I have a 2006 2 stroke 15hp Mercury short shaft for sale for 995..
No, you don't

One question to all Merc users: I burnt all the petrol by disconnecting the fuel line. Then, when I wanted to start it, it took ages - at least 15 pulls to start. The same happens with the engine both hot and cold.
What's the tried and tested way of priming it from dry, so it starts easily?

It took 1.5 squeeze of the fuel line bulb (and then the bulb went hard), I then pulled the primer 2x and proceeded to start. Clearly I'm not doing it correctly - this shouldn't take that many pulls.

When it already has petrol inside, starts with half-pull, both hot and cold.
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Old Today, 07:05   #36
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That doesn't seem enough pumps of the bulb before it gets hard. I don't count but I reckon it takes several even if not run dry in every OB I've had. From dry I'd expect it to take 5 plus squeezes. Wonder if there is something stopping the fuel when you pump but allows it when the vacuum of the OB's own pump draws the fuel up??

Good OB choice. Very simple to work on so this will just be a glitch. The three I've had were often a first time start from cold and similarly hot.

Unrelated to the bulb but worth checking the primer is OK and delivering fuel.
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Old Today, 10:29   #37
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yep i run mine dry it takes 7-8 pumps to get it solid but mine runs through a fuel seperator i would pump leave it a while then pump again you might have a constriction somewhere took me two seasons to prove my new bulb was allowing fuel to flow away from the engine because the non return valve was not positioned properly from the factory. check fuel hoses too
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